Cadillac DeVille

The shop manual for the car( dealer item ) should have it ...you could check eBay to see if there is one available ...or purchase from the dealer some cars have it under the hood just look around xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ANSWER xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Purchase a Haynes Manual that is specific to your car at a parts house.

You need a T-15 star bit driver that is referred to as TORX. On the top and bottom of tail light are the screws. Carefully remove the chrome trim then the light pulls out after applying slight upward pressure. Once you twist out the socket the bulb simply unplugs. It should be either a 3057 or 3157 bulb. (i cant remember for sure)

The check engine light on a 1999 Cadillac DeVille can be reset by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. The light will immediately come back on if the problem still exists.

I have a 99 GS300 and there is a lock on the left side, right above your knee that you can puch in. This will make it so the truck can not be opened, except with a key. You also need the main key to unlock the button, the valet key will not work in this lock. I hope this is helpful.

when looking at the cap from standing in frount of the car you will look down at the cap,witch is located under the air breather tube that runs too the top of your throttle body carborator, you will see that the cap has a white dot on the upper left hand corner of the cap,that will be your number 1 plug wire,hope fully you wasent in too much of a rush and pulled all the wires off?????? start their and mark the wires from left counter clock wise with a marker 1 thru 8 then take all the wires off the old cap and put the new cap and roter on,then from left counter clock wise replace the wires 1thru8 on the cap,then if you are replacing the wires take them of 1 bye 1 and compare them too the new wires for length and replace them,now if you got in a rush and tore all the wires off and dident mark them pull the number 1 plug wire (witch is the wire next too the white dot on top of your cap on the lfet hand side ) and criss cross from side too side of the engine the wires and that is the firing order of your engine

not really

I just repaired mine with exactly the same problem. Replacing the spark plugs and wires is all it took. Be sure to use only the correct platinum plugs and an exact OEM set of wires. My replacement wires and factory wires were all numbered on the jacket... making things very easy. Note: the distributor cap is numbered as well. Car runs great and I am getting about 4 MPG's better.

Probably one of the most simple maintenance jobs a do-it-yourselfer can perform...

The only tool needed is a 1/2" breaker bar. To the rear of the power steering pump you will see a belt tensioner that has a square cutout that the breaker bar fits into. Pull the breaker bar towards the front of the car (or up) and the tensioner will move so you can pull off the old belt. Pay attention to the routing of the belt--make a diagram if the decal is missing from the underside of the hood! Put the new belt in place, use the breaker bar to again move the tensioner and slip the belt under it. You're done! Takes all of maybe ten minutes.

Transmission needs service? Try changing the fluid and re-setting the code with and obd2 diagnostic tool. Or just take it to a descent shop.

I don't know, you tell me!! Not a magic, powerful women.....

next to the throttle body, toward the firewall side of the engine compartment

ur electronic climate control (ecc) programmer is faulty need to change it and the vaccum harness to the upgraded one. by the way its on the passenger side under the dash.

Front left of engine. Behind radiator and fans, halfway down

I just had my torque converter replaced and the cost was $884.00 at an independent mechanic. I called the cadillac dealer and i was told that it would cost me $1350.00. I have a 1999 cadillac deville, and i can only notice a slight difference after the car was repaired.

go 2 ask.com and u will find it

Nothing Nothing

Dextron-Mercon

No heat could mean several possibilities.

Low coolant level. Check to make sure you have enough coolant -- check the overflow resevoir. Only check radiator when the engine is COLD. NEVER open a radiator cap when an engine is warm or hot.

If you're not sure, with the engine off, squeeze the upper radiator hose with your hand. If it feels warm, and especially if it feels firm or hard, then the coolant is under pressure. DO NOT OPEN the cap until the engine cools off.

If you're really low on coolant and need to add coolant to the radiator, fill it up, then start the engine with the radiator cap off. The coolant level should drop right away.

Add some more coolant. It is usually a good idea to let the engine run until the thermostat opens. This can take a little while...until the engine warms up completely. Slowly raising and lowering the engine speed with your foot on the gas pedal will heat the engine faster. You never have to make the engine race or anything, just a fast idle and then slow it down. The coolant will slowly rise, and may even overflow the radiator a little. Then it will suddenly drop. This means the thermostat has opened. Top it off and put that radiator cap back on all the way. Make sure the overflow resivoir is filled to the right level too.

The engine thermostat might be bad and your engine running too cool.

The heater core might be plugged internally with sediment or externally clogged with dirt, leaves or other debris.

Some cars have a "heater control valve" inline with one of the heater hoses. It is usually vacuum controlled. If it fails you may not get heat. Don't know if your car has one.

There is a "diverter like" door near the heater core inside the heating system that adjusts to let hot air or cold air into the passenger compartment. If this door is stuck, or not getting the proper signal to open, (I think it is vacuum controlled) then you won't get warm air. One of the the vacuum lines under the dash connected to the controller of this door may have come loose.

The main question is how many miles on the car?

What was the "normal" temp range observed before.

What has changed...?

Are you driving to a different location everyday.. new vehicle?

My caddy is now hitting 217 at times still and 212 to 215 after 15 miles. (winter time) I repaired a cracked plastic radiator with a replacement. I think the bearing on my car and the gaskets are worn and oil leaks/burns at about 1/2 Q per 250 miles or less. Now i get low oil pressure warnings on a fully warmed vehicle. Dumped in a can of STP and that warning subsided in frequency. What do I expect at 167, 000 miles?

I think maybe radiator cap could have bad rubber and maybe not holding pressure at full temp.. maybe the oil viscosity/pressure problem is another key issue--if the engine is tired like mine.

So does that cover the vehicle in part that you are asking about 217F degree temps?

Not a simple solution.. the answer is how much do you plan to spend to "fix" the issues that the 217 temp might represent. At minimal I would venture the radiator cap.. or the radiator is original and cracked on the end and venting-- you might not even smell it much.

That sound like a loose connection..pull the switch to the ON position play with the wiring . look at the dimmer switch.. check your ground wire. GOOD LUCK..NOW..LOL..tell me where the FUEL PUMP RELAY is on a 1979 Cadillac Seville( not under the hood)

If the ignition control module has the exact wiring, and is for the exact same number of coils, (3 coils for a six cylinder, and 4 for an eight), then it will work. I actually have a 4 coil pack unit that will work with an 8 cylinder for $100.00. It is used but works fine, and has 4 coils already attached. I bought it for my 98 Eldorado, and it turned out to be a bad fuel pump. buckeyefanted@aol.com if yer interested.

P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire

Symptoms.
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues

Cause
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM

The Fix
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.

depending on what model you have it is usually on the rear suspension frame.

Instead of using light bulbs, they used candles.

The drain cock is at the bottom of the radiator above the splash shield. Either you will need to remove the shield or you will need a piece of 3/8" hose about 12 to 14 inches long to attach to the drain tube.