Cadillac DeVille

It is located on the right rear of the engine (as viewed standing in front of the car) closest to the drivers seat. It is a vertical cylindrical device about 2" in diameter and 3 1/2" tall with a connector on the top.

Below the radiator in the middle.

This system originally used R-12 but since that no longer is available,you will need to have your system retrofitted to accept the R134a refrigerant.

It may have already been retrofitted.

inside the trunk on the back of the rear set there is a panel that you can remove and access the rear fuse panel

i cant find anything but i got a hole in mine and the only place that had one was a junk yard and they wanted 450 bucks for it so i ended up finding a siezed up motor on craigslist for 100 got it took the timing cover and heads and scraped the rest for 50 bucks

Although your not being specific as to when your loosing power upon excelleration. What are the circumstances? Full Tank of gas? Low Tank? When was the last time you had changed your fuel filter? Timing?

It really could be many things but I will add my two sense as to when this happends to me.When my computer reads my fuel quantity starting at about 18liters being left in the tank and I accellerate quickly the car will cough and stutter as the engine is being starved for fuel.

This happends because the gas tank on the Cadillac is so big and the fuel float is at the "FRONT" of the tank so when you accellerate and/or start an up hill climb the gas will slosh to the back of the tank and starve the fuel sending unit in the tank.

There are a number of "vehicle geometry" issues mentioned here. If you want the short answer to the question as stated, see the bullet near the end. The difficulty lies in the fact that there is no really direct route from the petcock - which is near the bottom, driver-side, inboard, face of the radiator - to a receptacle beneath the vehicle. (If you didn't know where it was - it is not your fault. It is well-concealed from above by other connections to the radiator. You can find it, but you need to know where it is first... ;-)) ) [I don't recall if draining via the petcock is blocked by the sheet metal panel at the bottom or not. (I am all but certain that it is blocked in this way - Otherwise, I would have found this operation easier...) You will need to remove from the bottom of the vehicle: a (full radiator width) plastic panel having three hex-head screw fasteners; and the driver-side connections of a 'hardware-paper'-ish sheet of material attached to the body from below, by a number of plastic press-together, two-piece fasteners - in order for you to have a shot at the petcock from that direction. I opted to remove the fasteners non-destructively, as the OEM parts are never cheap (sometimes similar fasteners can be found at auto parts stores). In addition, I suggest that you not expose that 'hardware-paper' item to any more antifreeze that is absolutely necessary. (It will sag, and be difficult to keep in place after such exposure.)] You may be able to attach a rubber hose to the petcock, and use it to drain to a container, but I chose to put a big round plastic 'pan' underneath. [Even if you use a plastic tube, you still need to be able to open the petcock - Not easy!] To open the petcock from above (standing - facing the vehicle), you probably need to find someone with hands the size of a three-year-old's; those same hands possessing the strength of an adult male; and arms the length of a person 6'9" tall! (I really wish I was joking about those 'specs'...) The petcock is very hard to reach, and in the end, I chose to do it 'brute-force'. I placed a pan underneath, and disconnected the lower radiator hose. I don't believe that there is a realistic non-messy option - Although I expect that this was the hope of the question. I am unaware of a tool that is designed specifically to open the petcock from far above, but if one exists it would have two prongs in the horizontal plane, and the ability to control their rotation about the horizontal axis, by actuating the turning from a distance of about 24"-30" in the vertical direction. [If you have a pair of 14"+ needle nose pliers, you might be able to place the jaws on either side of the petcock and twist it open (assuming they don't break). (Get under the vehicle, and bring the pliers in from 'vehicle-rear', perpendicular to the intended direction of twist.) In my case, the petcock was so tight, that it took a pair of channel-locks after removal of the radiator!] A cleaner approach might be to pump the fluid from the reservoir with the engine running, but I don't know how much fluid you could remove that way either? (And some of it will be hot - Not so safe!) * I vote for removal of the radiator hoses but only after removal of the under-body fabric! Get a wide pan and let it fall through. It's dirty, but I didn't have a week to get the petcock opened... ;-))

The essential SPX Kent Moore Specialty tool (J-43651) can be purchased at DenlorsTools.com, also a less expensive but very high quality alternative made by Sealy is also available at DenLors (for expedited shipping 1.800.524.9783). See the Related Links for "DenLors - GM Ecotec Water Pump Job" and the J-43651 specialty tool below for more information. In Canada call 1-877-928-0737, it's available for $149.95 or gmail me at georgiansupply@gmail.com

Yes!! Yes!!

Goto your local DMV and request a duplicate title.

What you are asking gets too involved to answer here properly. What you need to do is go to your car parts store, and get a repair manual. They cost about $16.00, and although some of the information in these are mis-leading, most of the time they are accurate, and go into quite detail of the repairs you want to make. You are more than likely going to need some specialized tools which you can rent in order to do the work on this '90 DeVille.

motor mount

That answer is incorrect! A northstar engine WILL burn about a quart of oil per 2-3k miles. Why? Because the engine has rings/pistons from an engine designed for racing (Much higher speeds and temps) The normal wear and tear you put on the engine doesn't even come close to the design specs. Therefore, the rings/pistons have a LOT of room. At least a couple thousandths of an inch more. (I used to work on newer Caddies) you CAN if you want get a new ring job, but as long as you stay on top of it and its not smoking... No. A properly maintained engine should not use oil at anywhere near that rate.

14 in the town and 24 on highway... usually 17 mile / gallon

The 2003 Cadillac DeVille takes 22" wiper blades on both sides front. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only. Be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

If you can hear the motor going but the window has fallen down or is jammed then you probably have popped the ball and socket from each other. This is an "iffy" design such that even if you buy the replacement part you still have the same problem as I did again a couple years later.. when you close or jostle the door mainly without the window up then the ball pops out of the seemingly nylon socket.

This interconnect system is between the elevator rail I call it and the window itself.

To fix you must put the motor on (window up or down) such that the elevator is in a position visible in one of the holes in the panel (remove door panel and paper). I put it almost down. Next you elevate the window by hand until the ball and socket line up.

Next you use a vise-grips or channel locks to squeeze the ball and socket together (or back up the window attachment area to the outside of the door (in the cavity) with say a wood block and use a hard object to push the two together again). It sometimes is very hard to squeeze the two together but this is good because it will hold better as you go over bumps.

The whole job takes about 2-3 hours for first timers and the third or forth time, 30 minutes. You will have to use both types of screw drivers and maybe an Allen wrench (handle area) to "wedge out" lighting and switch inserts and remove screws in taking the door apart but that is another question.

If it happens a lot, you may be able to still buy a new plastic or nylon socket from Cadillac or keep window up and use AC more (Because of continuous problem and frustration, I lodged or wedged a notched board under passenger window to the door bottom to keep the window up always). It also may happen when driving on bumpy roads with window not up but I cannot remember.

We are all creatures of old habits, I suggest that even to yourself you write notes about this for inside you car. Put a "no brainer" note on the doors over power switches, "Do NOT open door WITHOUT window UP (window falls)" (you could add, "If you open door? DO NOT MOVE door more, put window UP now").

easy way is to disconnect the battery Answer #2: There is not just one 'computer' on this vehicle. Settings are maintained at various locations throughout the vehicle. Generally each component which has settings, contains an eprom to preserve those settings. For example: The radio will not lose its settings if the battery is disconnected. What does "reset" mean? I believe you need a laptop or other computing device with the appropriate software to be able to modify the settings of the vehicle. Some devices must be configured at a dealer. This helps protect against radio theft etc.

Go to a junkyard or carparts.com

It is always the low side, the larger of the two hoses. On some cars, it is connected directly to the drier, which looks like a tall can with hoses coming from it on the left side under the hood, mounted near the fender. Good idea to pressure test it.

torque specs on the bolts that hold the rockers on a 4.9 cadillac motor

The "Lock-up solinoid for the transmission in most GM cars is located under the oil pan of the transmission. with the pan off, towards the area of where the engine and bell housing mount together. the solinoid, while mounted is in front of the valve body and behind what would be the pump housing. Normaly two screws hold it in, and when removed, it would resemble a sloinoid with a long neck. At the end of the neck there is a check ball. It will either be a silver ball bearing or coated ball bearing (teflon coating) It will have a single lead aprox. 5-8 inches long. They are common problems in the GM transmissions with OD and lock-up tourque converters. When you had the converter replaced, the solinoid should also have been replaced. Average cost was 35.00 to 78.00 depending on application. You could do it yourself when replacing transmission filter and oil.

Very easy on the 97 Deville. Each caliper has a bleeder nipple - looks like a grease nipple. This is a two man operation. Fill the Master brake cylinder with frsh oil. You will start at the right (passenger) rear tire. Remove tire and instruct the other person to push down on the brake and hold it down Loosen the nipple slightly and either air or oil will come out Tighten nipple and instruct other person to let the pedal return to top position. Repeat this procedure until a steady stream of oil is coming out of the nipple. Mount tire and move on to the left rear (drivers) tire and repeat above. Then right front (passenger) tire and finally front left (drivers) tire. MAKE SURE YOU ARE ALWAYS TOP UP THE MASTER CYLINDER BETWEEN EACH BRAKE BLEEDING SO NO NEW AIR IS INTRODUCED INTO THE SYSTEM.

rear subwoofer in back dash of 2004 cadillac deville is 10"

The "D" indicates that there is a communication error between the Power Control Module (PCM) and the Body Control Module (BCM). Problems with the communication line are usually complex and require the diagnostic expertise of a factory trained technician. However, in some rare cases, this problem has been linked to a faulty fuel gauge sending unit. Take the car a GM/Cadillac dealership for proper diagnosis of the problem.