Car Shaking Problems

The ac could be causing the problem. Turn the ac off, and watch the compressor clutch to see if it is not engaged. If it is then the compressor or clutch could be bogging the engine down.

If you know which cylinder is not getting a spark you should know why. Put a new plug and lead in No. 4. and see what happens.

A vibration in the front end of a Volvo S60 while accelerating is due to imbalanced tires. Swap the tires until the right combination is achieved.

Honda vehicles are not equipped with a fuel cutoff inertia switch.

Find the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. It will be labeled with a "Use DOT 3 brake fluid only" warning. Add your DOT 3 fluid to the reservoir until it reaches the full mark. If you let the reservoir get totally empty, you will need to bleed your brake system (and clutch if you have a manual transmission).

Vibration of the tire is caused by a uniformity parameter called "variation of radial force". Usually a vehicle's steering wheel will vibrate (called torsional nimble) at a certain speed. This vibration is caused by the harmonics of this radial force. Picture the side view of a tire with different size springs within it. The force of these springs cause a distortion of this force and you feel this distortion in the steering wheel.

this is normally caused by water entering the electronics of the engine. The most poular is the distributer cap. open cap and allow to completely dry and reasemble and see if that solves the problem.

There should be a spring loaded tensioner pulley. If the pulley isn't holding the belt sufficiently tight you may need to replace the tensioner.

The steering wheel wobbles, because of the unconditional pressures from the ground that is adjusted at speeds when it reflects gravity.

wheel bearing, gearbox or wind noise

Supercharger?

Check fluid level

Could be a bad pump inside the transmission

If the trucks front end is tight, it sounds like your tire shop balanced separated tires. If the tire tech doesn't watch the spin balancer for what I call a "bad roll", they can miss the obvious sepo tire. There is a serial number on your tire called the DOT number. If the last 2 numbers are before 2006, I would say that you have tire issues. Here is an example UP0RT192805, this tire would have been made the 28th week of 2005. Tires should be in the consideration of being retired after about 5 years of service. I have seen many tires last longer than this, but it's the only thing between you and the road. Don't chance it. Also when buying new tires, demand to know what year those tires were made. You don't want to take off 5 year old tires, and put 3 year old tires back on. See what I mean? There are tire stores sitting on tires that are greater than 10 years old. This would be your Sears, Walmart, Sams Club and other places that have tires built just for them, so they sit in a warehouse until they sell. You may also have a slightly bent wheel. Good luck, but I'm 99% sure on the sepo tires. Could also be out of round tires as well. This goes back to the "bad roll" theory. These tires "HOP" on the spin balancer. You can balance an egg all day long, but it never rolls good!

This could be caused by low tire pressure, very weak springs, or worn out struts or shock absorbers. I would check these things first.

Describe the problem in more detail. You can feel the back of the car moving back and forth at a speed of 65+ on the highway. The alignment folks think it must be the tires. They took the car back and looked over everything again and saw nothing mechanically wrong with the car. They suggested the tires may be to be "broke in" or get about 500 miles on them before they handle right again. I've never heard of such a thing. Is this normal or is it the brand of tires that were put on. The people who did the alignment didn't put on the tires.

The energy being released in the engine is not transferred to the outside; it manifests as vibration, which is transferred to the rest of the vehicle, hence the shaking of the car.

It most defiantly can. Have the tires balanced and the wheels/tires inspected for damage. You may have a bent wheel or a tire with internal damage. If the tires/wheels are ok, look at the suspension for damage.

Could be that the rotors are "out of round" and need either to be resurfaced or replaced

Sounds like a loose wheel

But it could be a bad tire with a "Lump" in it.

Both are very dangerous so you need to have your car checked and repaired.

needs tires balenced or new shocks(struts)somtimes both

Just had this problem and it was bad coil pack so it was only running on 5 cylinders

THAT SOUNDS LIKE A BAD VACUUM LEAK. IT SHOULDN'T COST MUCH TO FIX. IT MAY BE JUST A "HOSE" REPLACEMENT.

A tire's section width (aka"cross section width") is the measurement of the tire's width from its inner sidewall to its outer sidewall (excluding any protective ribs, decorations or raised letters) at the widest point. This measurement is made without any load placed upon the tire. The rim the tire is mounted on affects this measurement. On a narrow rim the measurement would be "narrower" than if the same tire was mounted on a wide rim.

The industry rule of thumb is that for every 1/2" change in rim width, the tire's section width will correspondingly change by approximately 2/10".

For example: a tire in the P205/60R15 size is measured on a 6.0" wide wheel and this size tire has an approved rim width range from 5.5" to 7.5" wide. The tire has a section width of 8.23" (209mm) when mounted on a 6.0" wide wheel. If that tire were mounted on a rim:

5.5" - 8.03" cross section width

7.5" - 8.93" cross section width

It's mainly important for (fender, frame)clearances, but a narrow rim should give a softer ride due to sidewall positioning, but less grip due to tread not less flat, more sidewall roll.

Usually caused by warped rotors. You will have to replace pads at same time. Repair for good ceramics on front is 189.00 at tires plus

Sounds like a bad CV Joint / Axel shaft. I would check the left wheel bearing and brake components first.