Car Shaking Problems

A vehicle will shake in the reverse function when there is an issue with the engine, although other issues could cause this issue as well.

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If its shaking side to side could be a tire out of balance or maybe a mechanical issue (wheel bearing, alignment, etc). Probably not a safety issue, but it can wear the tires out prematurely which can be expensive. Warped brake rotors are the most likely cause if the steering wheel only shakes when applying the brakes.

The ignition coil creates the high voltage necessary in spark plugs to create the spark that ignites the gasoline fuel that creates the expanding gas that pushes on the cylinder making it move and turn the crank shaft of the engine. The rotating crank shaft powers the fuel pump, alternator, air conditioner. The rotating energy is passed to the transmission and to the drive shaft and wheels making the car or other gas powered vehicle go.

Typically, either alignment or low tire pressure. Check the tire pressure, if it still pulls you'll need to take the vehicle to a front-end specialist for an alignment.

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yes they do, i'm running 255/75/15 bf goodrich radial ta's on chevy rally rims on a 1993 conversion van,van is over 6.000 pounds,no problems at all

The wheels were probably overtorqued. Have the rotors turned and the wheels torqued correctly. The mechanic more than likely overtightened the lug nuts holding your wheels on. With all of the horror stories of people having their wheels come off while riding down the road, service garages and mechanics are probably being over cautious. If tight is good, then even tighter is better. Unfortunately, what happens is that they end up warping the brake rotors (the disks that your break pads pinch together on to make your car stop). The warped rotors then give you that pulsing effect when you brake. Newer cars have lighter weight rotors that are more susceptible to warping, and, if your rotors are old or have been turned on a lathe, they are narrower and weaker and can warp easier.

The answer is: any force equal to or greater than the forward momentum of the truck. So many variables enter into calculating a precise measurement of force needed to stop a vehicle - mass of the vehicle, conditions of friction and gravity - is the truck going uphill or downhill, or on a flat surface? Is the road slippery, smooth or rough?

Let's assume that normal conditions apply: a truck weighing 10,000 Kg traveling at an acceleration rate of 5m/s² along a flat smooth surface. Using Newton's second Law of Motion, expressed as a formula F=ma, where F is the Net Force (the sum of all forces acting on an object) in Newtons, m is the mass of the truck, and a is its acceleration rate, assumed here to be 5m/s². By multiplying the mass times acceleration, we see that a whopping 50,000 Newtons would be required to stop this truck. By comparison, the pull of gravity on a person of average weight (72 Kg, or 160 lb) is measured at 686 Newtons. So depending on the type of truck, weather conditions, wind speed, direction of the truck, and effect of gravity and friction (all included in net force, or Newtons) you can see that the actual Force, expressed as N, is a variable.

your engine will start but run badly on a multi cyl. ie. more than one only 1 plug may be down, not often more than 1 together

Usually when the steering wheel shakes badly while driving it could mean a few things. If it shakes only when you are applying the brakes, this means you have warped rotors and they will need to be turned or replaced. If it shakes just while driving, it could be that you have 1 or more tires that are unbalanced. Check this first before proceeding. It can also indicate that a wheel alignment and perhaps steering linkage repairs are necessary.

Movements in your car's motor causes your car to move slightly from side to side. When the engine is running, the movements are so fast that the car is balanced - it doesn't have a chance to move to one side before the opposite force moves it back the other way. When you turn the engine off, these forces slow down and as the engine stops running the forces from side to side get slower until they actually move the car for a moment - and it shakes from one side to the other until the engine stops.

Out of balance tires, worn out tires, (tread separating, etc), bad tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, etc.

your tires need to be ballaced

The EXACT same thing just happened with my car. It would shake at higher speeds, but especially when the brakes were hot after driving for a few minutes. I took my car to the shop yesterday and they diagnosed it as a sticking brake caliper. The caliper is not releasing as it should, therefore making the brakes drag. The technician said he could barely turn the rotor it was so bad. He also said I will get much better gas mileage once it's fixed!

What happens basically is that the brakes stick, causing severe shaking and vibration in the steering wheel. I also felt it in the brake pedal when slowing down from high speeds. It felt exactly like a flat tire. It's basically like having one brake partially on while you are driving. It's very important to have this repaired ASAP as it puts wear on other parts of your car (esp. suspension parts: bearings, tie-rods, etc.). If you continue to drive with a sticking caliper it will eventually cause more damage.

These are the parts that need replacing on my car: calipers, brake pads, and possibly rotors. Sometimes the rotors can be resurfaced if they are not worn down too thin or warped. It is best to replace both driver and passenger side parts even if only one side is bad. If you only do one side, it will cause the car to pull to the opposite side, during braking causing it to wear down fast. You will soon need to replace the other side anyhow. Best to do them both at the same time so they will wear evenly and not cause unequal wear on either side.

But before you bring it into the shop, check your lug nuts to be sure they are not loose. Good luck!

The coil is built into the distributor. For the 1999-2003 Galant straight-four, there are two coil packs. The ignition coils go over the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 4.

its usually the belt inside the tire that gets bent, from hitting a curb or rocks

if the rim of the tire itself is bent you cannot reseat the tire on the rim you will

have a slow leak

its like trying to straighted out a coat hanger

It is probably missing. Have it tuned up and a compression test run on the engine.

What kind of car & year. Could be the idle air bypass valve. It is located on the throttle body. If you remove the hose and look in the throttle body, you can see a hole in there. Try to clean it with air intake cleaner first. Clean the throttle body with it about 25% of the can, then use the rest of the can into that hole! Do this with the vehicle is running. You may have to play with the throttle to do this. Try to keep the idle as low as possible. When done, stop the vehicle for 10 mins. then rev it up a lot and get all the black out.

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If your car is idling rough it is likely due to an issue with the fuel system spark plugs or the ignition system. To identify and resolve the issue you should:

• Check the air filter and replace it if necessary.
• Clean the fuel injectors and replace them if needed.
• Check the fuel pressure and adjust it if necessary.
• Replace the spark plugs and check the spark plug wires.
• Check the ignition system for any issues.

If the issue persists after taking these steps it may be necessary to take the car to a professional mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

From my experience with this problem it isn't the steering wheel that is shaking but your U joints could be bad or something else under the car. Get it to a mechanic. Can't give a cost for this.

If it starts very rough but then clears out expect either fouling of spark plugs or a mixture problem that clears up when O2 feedback becomes available.

As far as the gage showing overheating... does it show this immediately after a cold start? Have you considered actually taking its temperature with a suitable tool?

The problem is either worn suspension parts (e.g., tie rods, idler arm, ball joints) or worn shocks/struts.

Your wheel bearing may have been damaged; your control arm may have been bent; your ball joint may have been dislocated; a tie-rod could have been bent. Visually inspect all parts for straightness, and give a good yank on the top of the tire and feel for any movement. If you feel a slight movement in the wheel, then your wheel bearing is bad. You could have bent your rim as well.

Most times your tires are out of balance. Driving it in that conditions adds more problems so get that corrected tomorrow.

Shakes that develop at or above specific speeds are usually caused by tire balance. Misalignment can also contribute to the problem

OR IT GOT A LOWER TIRE TREAD ON BOTH SIDE LIK IF U SLAM ON UR BRAKES & THE TIRES SLIDE IT WILL IT LIKE MY PICKUP IS

Definately!! The uneven displacement of mass caused by a warped rotor (also called rotor run out) can cause severe shaking at certain speeds. Ironically, this senario is usually created because the driver decided to slam on his/her brakes, which ended up warping the rotors in the first place.

most likely you need to replace your O2 senser.