Car Shaking Problems

Usually when the steering wheel shakes badly while driving it could mean a few things. If it shakes only when you are applying the brakes, this means you have warped rotors and they will need to be turned or replaced. If it shakes just while driving, it could be that you have 1 or more tires that are unbalanced. Check this first before proceeding. It can also indicate that a wheel alignment and perhaps steering linkage repairs are necessary.

Movements in your car's motor causes your car to move slightly from side to side. When the engine is running, the movements are so fast that the car is balanced - it doesn't have a chance to move to one side before the opposite force moves it back the other way. When you turn the engine off, these forces slow down and as the engine stops running the forces from side to side get slower until they actually move the car for a moment - and it shakes from one side to the other until the engine stops.

Out of balance tires, worn out tires, (tread separating, etc), bad tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, etc.

your tires need to be ballaced

The EXACT same thing just happened with my car. It would shake at higher speeds, but especially when the brakes were hot after driving for a few minutes. I took my car to the shop yesterday and they diagnosed it as a sticking brake caliper. The caliper is not releasing as it should, therefore making the brakes drag. The technician said he could barely turn the rotor it was so bad. He also said I will get much better gas mileage once it's fixed!

What happens basically is that the brakes stick, causing severe shaking and vibration in the steering wheel. I also felt it in the brake pedal when slowing down from high speeds. It felt exactly like a flat tire. It's basically like having one brake partially on while you are driving. It's very important to have this repaired ASAP as it puts wear on other parts of your car (esp. suspension parts: bearings, tie-rods, etc.). If you continue to drive with a sticking caliper it will eventually cause more damage.

These are the parts that need replacing on my car: calipers, brake pads, and possibly rotors. Sometimes the rotors can be resurfaced if they are not worn down too thin or warped. It is best to replace both driver and passenger side parts even if only one side is bad. If you only do one side, it will cause the car to pull to the opposite side, during braking causing it to wear down fast. You will soon need to replace the other side anyhow. Best to do them both at the same time so they will wear evenly and not cause unequal wear on either side.

But before you bring it into the shop, check your lug nuts to be sure they are not loose. Good luck!

The coil is built into the distributor. For the 1999-2003 Galant straight-four, there are two coil packs. The ignition coils go over the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 4.

its usually the belt inside the tire that gets bent, from hitting a curb or rocks

if the rim of the tire itself is bent you cannot reseat the tire on the rim you will

have a slow leak

its like trying to straighted out a coat hanger

It is probably missing. Have it tuned up and a compression test run on the engine.

What kind of car & year. Could be the idle air bypass valve. It is located on the throttle body. If you remove the hose and look in the throttle body, you can see a hole in there. Try to clean it with air intake cleaner first. Clean the throttle body with it about 25% of the can, then use the rest of the can into that hole! Do this with the vehicle is running. You may have to play with the throttle to do this. Try to keep the idle as low as possible. When done, stop the vehicle for 10 mins. then rev it up a lot and get all the black out.

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If your car is idling rough it is likely due to an issue with the fuel system spark plugs or the ignition system. To identify and resolve the issue you should:

• Check the air filter and replace it if necessary.
• Clean the fuel injectors and replace them if needed.
• Check the fuel pressure and adjust it if necessary.
• Replace the spark plugs and check the spark plug wires.
• Check the ignition system for any issues.

If the issue persists after taking these steps it may be necessary to take the car to a professional mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

From my experience with this problem it isn't the steering wheel that is shaking but your U joints could be bad or something else under the car. Get it to a mechanic. Can't give a cost for this.

If it starts very rough but then clears out expect either fouling of spark plugs or a mixture problem that clears up when O2 feedback becomes available.

As far as the gage showing overheating... does it show this immediately after a cold start? Have you considered actually taking its temperature with a suitable tool?

The problem is either worn suspension parts (e.g., tie rods, idler arm, ball joints) or worn shocks/struts.

Your wheel bearing may have been damaged; your control arm may have been bent; your ball joint may have been dislocated; a tie-rod could have been bent. Visually inspect all parts for straightness, and give a good yank on the top of the tire and feel for any movement. If you feel a slight movement in the wheel, then your wheel bearing is bad. You could have bent your rim as well.

Most times your tires are out of balance. Driving it in that conditions adds more problems so get that corrected tomorrow.

Shakes that develop at or above specific speeds are usually caused by tire balance. Misalignment can also contribute to the problem

OR IT GOT A LOWER TIRE TREAD ON BOTH SIDE LIK IF U SLAM ON UR BRAKES & THE TIRES SLIDE IT WILL IT LIKE MY PICKUP IS

Definately!! The uneven displacement of mass caused by a warped rotor (also called rotor run out) can cause severe shaking at certain speeds. Ironically, this senario is usually created because the driver decided to slam on his/her brakes, which ended up warping the rotors in the first place.

most likely you need to replace your O2 senser.

Without seeing and/or listening to the vehicle, in person, it is almost impossible to tell you with any degree of certainty what the problem is, however...

It would be a good idea to check the rear universal joints. Then check the differential and tires.

Most likely warped brake discs

To adjust wheel alignment, you must;

have the vehicle on a level surface,

check alignment with gauges or other suitable equipment,

raise vehicle,

remove ball joint using splitter,

turn track rod end depending on toe in or out,

lower vehicle and check again.

this is a lengthy process, and may need to be repeated several times.

hope this helps

A bad o2 sensor can cause this problem in a car. A bad fuel pump, fuel filter or fuel line will also cause hesitation during acceleration.

time for a maintance of spark plugs and wireing cgange

yes

A smaller wheel will be easier to turn, but will travel less for each revolution.

A bigger wheel will be harder to turn, but will go farther with each revolution.

Sticking a bigger wheel on a car that hasn't got the power to get it turning properly will make it slower - not faster.

Sticking a smaller wheel on a car that's already has its engine spinning like crazy won't make it faster either.

This problemsounds like the tires might need to be rotated and balanced. the car might need to be aligned if the car pulls to the right when you are driving straight.