Car Shaking Problems

I was driving against the curb on my left side for a second and now the edge of the plate rim is bent. I don't think anything is wrong with the bolts that secure it to the wheel, it's just the edge of the plate that is usually tucked underneath the tire...

If that part is untucked and bent outward, will it cause any problems? And how can I get it fixed without paying too much?

Thank you.

Most newer fuel injected vehicles have a idle control valve or idle speed motor or a variation of one. A idle speed motor controls the idle speed but when they are defective, they can allow a lean mixture which can cause a very rough idle. WRONG! A malfunctioning iac will NOT effect your fuel mixture. Your misfire problem is likely one of five things. Bad injector, bad spark plug, bad spark plug wire, bad egr, or bad egr control valve. If the problem is ignition related it usually gets worse as engine load is increased. A dirty injector can cause issues across the load range. A bad egr or egr control valve will be worse at low engine loads. The control valve is strapped on the side of the intake tube from the airfilter box to the throttle body. Find the hose going from that to the egr valve itself and unhook it. If the idle improves, you have a bad egr control valve. If idle does not improve, chech the other items (egr valve, plugs, wires, injectors).

Check the idle, crankshaft and camshaft sensors.

Possible its time to change those brake pads out. The whining noise is possibly the metal grinding to your rotor, which would cause your wheel to shake. Consider getting those rotors turned as well.

It may be "flooding" one or more cylinders when it's damp or you may have a sparkplug wire that's arcing when the air is more humid. Try this, wait for a time when it's dark and you're pretty sure the engine will run the way you just described, then have a friend start the engine IN THE DARK while you're watching with the hood open. Look for a blue spark somewhere along the plug wires. If you see plug wire arcing, that's your problem. Replace the plug wires. If the vehicle is older, it could just be a case of low compression in a couple cylinders and it's just taking them a little while to finally catch when they're cold. An engine with low compression will always be more difficult to start. Also check the sparkplugs, but make sure you don't get the plug wires mixed up so only disconnect one plug wire at a time and pull and examine the sparkplug for damage or fouling.

that is your brakes catching then being pulled just a little bit to the side and losing traction and going back and catching again.

so its catching and slipping and catching and slipping really fast

Your car probably has abnormally worn in tires, caused by misalignment. Worn rotors can cause this as well.

you should feel a vibration or shimmy in yoursteering wheel. also you can take you car to a les schwab and they could tell you

A misfire caused by the ignition system exhausts unburned fuel into the exhaust system that enters the catalytic converter and causes its temperature to rise dramatically. An exhaust issue could cause for cylinder 4 to misfire. The camshaft lobes, which are responsible for opening and closing the intake and exhaust vales, are another source for a misfire and rough running engine. The cam lobes for the No. 4 cylinder should be inspected to see if they have been worn down due to lack of oil or other mechanical problem. A damaged camshaft lobe will not allow a valve to open properly if at all.

If you have verified the vibration is coming from the axle, then it needs to be replaced. It's not really a bad repair job - even for us backyard mechanics.

Vibrations can also come from a bad tire (split belts), or worn suspension parts.

Sounds like plug wires were swapped plug to plug or a wire got damaged pulling it off. I have swapped plug wires before on accident and now do them one at a time. That is pulling only one wire and replacing one plug at a time before going to the next one. You might trying looking under the hood in total darkness at night or whatever and see if you see and wires arcing to a ground anywhere from the dist/coil/plugs. Go to the part store and get the firing order for the motor if you suspect you may have swapped a couple of wires. I just saw it was an Expedition as well it may have no wires and be coil on plug on every cylinder. Coil boots are replaced every tune up on some as well. You may have left a vacuum line off somewhere or bumped one as well. Listen for suction or hissing type noise.

i have a 2000 ford expedition, min did the same thing....twice. first time had a bad O2 sensor replaced that ran fine. second time was plugs Would help to know make and model of vehicle. But the most likely cause is an engine miss due to a bad plug wire or plug or a dead cylinder [no compression]. Other causes could be a vacuum leak or the fuel/air mixture may be way off. The engine is still missing at higher speeds you just don't notice it as the higher engine speed simply covers it up. This is why engine misses are usually diagnosed only at idle or under load while the vehicle is stationary. bestalucktoyou Check passenger side motor mount. A bad one will make the car vibrate at idle. The car very much may be out of time. At higher engine speeds you will not notice it. If you recently had the timing belt done or your timing belt jumped, would cause this. But first try a tune up.

makesure rack and pinion frame anchoring bolts are tight if they are the least bit loose it could translate the vibrations to the steering wheel check the rack securing frame bolts or inner tie rod ends for a loose clicking sound by putting car up in the air on jack stands and grabing tire on left and right side and pulling and pushing looking for loose clicking sound if you hear it have another person observe the inner tie rod as you push and pull on the tire to verify sound and location. PS ,outer tie rod ends could be suspect so also look there when pushing and pulling on tire

You have a few options here: Get your wheels balanced-cheapest, have a mechanic check your steering components for wear-possibly more expensive or third, drive faster than 45mph everywhere-probably most expensive(fuel and possible speeding tickets)and the least safe. :)

No it is not a problem but not necessary. You should use exactly what the manufacture recommends. Using a higher octane fuel in a car designed for 87 octane will provide no benefit whatsoever and is a total waste of money. However using a lower octane fuel in a car designed to run on premium will lower the power of the engine and decrease fuel mileage. With todays modern fuel management systems the ECU in the vehicle will make the adjustments for the lower octane fuel. However on an older vehicle designed to run on premium using regular can cause engine damage over time due to pre-detonation or what is comely called pinging. This is real simple, use exactly what the manufacture of your vehicle recommends and you cannot go wrong.

You need new brakes

Sounds like clogged fuel injectors or fuel filter.

Assuming that you are just checking into the vehicle and haven't bought it yet?

Many 4 cylinder vehicles vibrate a bit more at an idle, especially if the AC compressor is on, and the compressor is usually on when the defroster is working. Also, when an auto-transmission 4 cylinder vehicle is in gear, at a stoplight, it will tend to vibrate a little more than a 6 or 8cylinder. If all 4 cylinders are running properly, don't worry too much about an engine that's vibrating.

Brake pulsing on the other hand is an annoyance that should be repaired since it can affect the control of the brakes. Brake pulsing is caused by warped rotors. Usually the front rotors do most of the braking and can heat up when braking downhill for extended time or when stopping with a heavy load. If a rotor overheats it can warp, causing the pulsing. Just replace the front rotors and while the brakes are open, replace the pads.

The braking problem is almost certainly a disk brake rotor. The vibration could be a faulty tire, a bent or damaged "half shaft" or an out of balance tire. Front end vibration is not caused by an alignment problem, but can be accentuated by worn suspension or steering components.

Possibly warped rotors, loose wheel bearing, or a defect in a tire. Inspect your tires carefully, looking for bulges, or any other abnormality. If you find none, then you will need to check the wheel for looseness, and if it is not loose, then have the rotors removed and turned. Replace the front pads at this time. I would suspect you will find the rotors are warped. When replacing the wheel after service, be sure and tighten the lugs nuts to the proper torque, (found in you owner's manual). Tighten to tight and the rotors will warp again.

do not remove strut bolts instead take lower balljoint loose ,take axle nut loose pulling spindle out as you push in on axle, then pry axle out of trans

Replace your steering damper. NAPA offers a good deal on the stock type.

Can be nothing more than a tire out of balance or a bent wheel. Have your tires balanced, rotated, and inspected for damage.

I would firstly suspect the head gasket.If the gasket is blown between them two cylinders and the waterway or oilway, this would cause the cylinder to become contaminated with either oil or water which would prevent it from running.To check this, remove the oil filler cap and look for creamy emulsified oil or you may see bubbles appearing in the coolant when the engine is running. HTTP://online-merchant.no-ip.biz/ dampness

Possibly could use a wheel alignment, or tire pressure on all tires the same,or it also could be your stabilizer rods need replacing and while your looking at them check your struts and springs.good luck with that.