Car Shaking Problems

There are a small number of things that can cause the steering wheel to shake, and none of them are anything to ignore. A bent rim, a damaged tire, a loose tie rod end, and at a minimum - an imbalanced tire/wheel. You need to have this checked at a garage.

It could be your motor mounts, or it could be that you have used bad fuel, you could also have bad air filter or spark plug/s or one of your sensors is not functioning...give it a full tune up and if it still has the same faults, diagnose it with the scanner

You have a warped rotor. It must be trued at a machine shop or replaced.

It can if the repair is substantial.

Could be several reasons, all of them bad. Get it checked by a mechanic now.

Check the front tires/rims for snow packed in them. That can cause it to be out of balance.

Probably due to unbalanced wheels. Most tire shops will balance your wheels for a smallish cost.

There can be a number of problems that indicate that a transmission is failing;

1. slipping

2. failure to go into gear

3. leaking

4. noises

5. failure to shift at the right speed

Disconnect negative battery cable, remove coolant overflow tank, unbolt alternator and place it forward of the front valve cover,there are two studs with nuts and one bolt holding the steering pump to the engine.In order to get to the bolt you must first unbolt and remove the serpentine belt tensioner because the bolt is behind and under it. Suggest the idler pully be removed for better access to everything. Once the idler and tensioner are removed, the PS pump PULLEY must be removed or broken off (its made of plastic) OR remove the two nuts from the studs and remove the bolt that was hidden by the tensioner. Slide the pump assembly forward so that you can access the studs with vice grips and remove them this way OR take two nuts that are the correct size for the studs,tighten them against each other and rotate the inner nut counterclockwise til the stud is out....the fun part is trying to get an open end wrench in there....I recommend vice grip from above. The studs have to come out if you desire to remove the pump intact with the pulley attached, otherwise it will not have any clearance to come out. A new pulley costs $9.95 at advance auto, power steering pump about $45 same place. Plastic pulley must be pressed on and cannot be done with the bolt, washer and nut supplied with the pulley unless you lube the Hell out of the pulley, break a coupleof pulleys because the instructions are Crap. Take the works to an auto machine shop and let them press it on. Best way to get the pulley off the old pump is by breaking the thing off with a hammer so you have it free of the mount and with you for exchange (core charge is $35). The tool recommeded for removing the old pulley is a hair puller and all you will do is strip the threads in the pulley without budging the plastic piece of junk.Good luck, it took me two pulleys and lots of cussing to learn what I have written here. PS, don't forget to change the $18 power steering pump filter(FOR REAL)on the drivers side clipped to the frame.

a good book is haynes auto repair for a mercury

first you remove the pulley with a pulley removel tool you should be able to rent one from parts store.then remove lines,then pump

I am replacing mine today..the pump itself will come with all the information you need except the fact that you need a special puller to remove the power steering pully. I tryed the conventional three prong puller and found the 4" is to big to get in there to grab thre front of the pully due to the low placement and the body and air conditioner lines in the way..I am on my way back to the auto parts store to see if I can purchase the right puller..back later with price and availability and how it worked out...good luck terry

Check out this link:

http://www.autozone.com/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/13/49/0900823d800c1349/repairInfoPages.htm

-Mitch

you need to purchase a puller set.

>>

I found some instructions in a "Haynes Repair Manual" for the Taurus and Sable. The manuals are available at auto parts stores and in many public libraries.

I did not need to buy the puller set. The Auto Zone in my neighborhood offers free tool rental, and they had the puller set that I needed. They asked for a deposit when I picked up the tools, and refunded the full deposit when I returned the tools.

same in my town, as the one above, about the renting of tools. auto zone , I've noticed , is the best place and one you can trust more than most stores, for tool rentals. do NOT , however, do it *redneck style* like my husband does, because we never have the $50 plus for the rental in between pay periods, by hammering it off. it is BAD!when i found out how he always got them off wihtout a *pulley puller* set, i asked him how he did it without messing it up. he responded, "VERY CAREFULLY!" my mother-in-laws b/f was not so careful, and it eventually costed 300 dollars in parts alone and 6 months worth of frustration fixing the botched job, just so we could replace the water pump because someone welded the pulley onto the pump to make it stay on, which is NOT by ANY means, exceptable on ANY car. it causes far more problems than the imediate fix. If not taken off properly, you can not put it back on and have it stay there. it will fly off and shred your belt. my sister went through 3 belts before i found out what they did and theyre 25 a peice.

you need a special tool. puller / installer. rent it at Auto Zone for +/- $35

Go to a automotive supply store and ask for a Haines auto repair manual for your make year and model of car. It will show you, step by step how to do any repair to that particular car, with photos and a complete description of how to take it apart and put it back together again.

The best few dollars that you will ever spend.

you need a power steering pump pulley puller and installer kit. go to your local parts store. theyll have one.

WHO DID THE TUNE UP? DID YOU HAVE IT DONE OR DID YOU DO IT YOURSELF?COULD BE 100 THINGS. A TUNE UP TO ME MEANS NEW PLUGS NEW WIRES NEW DISTRIBUTER CAP IF IT HAS ONE AND ROTOR CAP,NEW AIR FILTER CHECKING THE TIMEING AND ALSO RUN A DIAGNOSTIC CHECK ON THE ENGINE SENSORS, AN OIL AND FILTER CHANGE AND A GREASE JOB WHILE YOUR AT IT. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND TAKE IT TO YOUR NEAREST AUTO STORE , LIKE AUTO ZONE AND ASK THEM TO PUT A DIAGNOSTIC READER ON YOUR COMPUTER PLUG AND TELL YOU IF YOU HAVE ANY BAD SENSORS, ITS FREE!!! AND IF YOU DO HAVE SOMETHING BAD THEY WILL TELL YOU WHAT IT IS THEN JUST REPLACE IT OR HAVE IT REPLACED. GOOD LUCK

This is very normal. The extra drag on the engine caused by the alternator and the a/c causes the engine to slow. The engine speed is most likely then compensated by the e.c.u to a pre-set value, thus causing the revs to rise.

== == The idle rpm may be too high and causing the tranmission to try to engage. You could have a bad torque converter. sometimes when it can't shift down into first without shaking, it's because your car is having trouble sticking in overdrive. has it ever stalled?

== ==

There are not any wires. This engine used a coil over the plug to fire it. The coil is held in place by two long bolts for each coil. CAREFULLY remove the bolts without cranking hard on them .... they have been known to snap if overtightened. Then lift out the coil and leave the wires attached. The plug is directly below and can be easily removed. Do not overtighten!

The idle is probably too low and or you need a general tune-up consisting of spark plugs, distributor cap, ignition rotor, spark plug wires, air and fuel filter. Or one of your emmission sensors are bad.

Get you front end aligned, that should take care of the shakes.

# Tire or wheel out of balance # Loose worn or out of adjustment rear wheel bearings # Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damaged # Bent or dented driveshaft # Undercoating or built up dirt on the driveshaft # Worn universal joint bearings # Driveshaft and/or companion flange out of balance

If your truck is rear wheel drive (which it almost certainly is), you probably have a badly worn U-joint (universal joint) in the drive shaft, which will eventually come apart leaving you stranded with a big towing bill. This will vibrate at any speed, and much worse as you acclerate, but might let up as you ease off the gas.

In any case, no matter what the cause, you should have it repaired by a technician before you have a more serious problem.

i ain't no expert but might be the head gasket.

You probably have a bad rt front tire. It may be low air pressure, lost wheel weight, or alignment. The low air pressure could make it pull to the right, and so could a bad alignment. Lost wheel weight and/or alignment could make the steering wheel shake.

Think if you hit a large object, a pot hole, or ran over the curb for example this could tear the alignment up and cold weather will reduce the air pressure in your tires as well as a nail.

I'm assuming this is a recent issue, probably a tire is out of balance or a bad wheel bearing, if it a existing condition, the bike may have a bent wheel from a previous owner, if it's a modern vtwin, a bad motor mount is a possibility,

loose tie-rods or ball joints, or both.

This one is fairly simple. Almost 90 % of the time it is because the shock absorbers are worn out, allowing the coil springs to oscillate roughly and hit the chassis of your vehicle.

Your tires are unbalanced. You need to get them balanced.

stress or a damage nerve in the brain.