Car Starting Problems

Turn the key into the off position, then turn all the way on with out turning the motor over and let it sit like that for 10 min without touching it. This will reset the anti theft program in the cars computer. After 10 min turn the key to the off position and then try to start the car. It works everytime in this situation. Cars come into my shop all the time for this same issue and other shops stick it to people that are not aware of this common GM defect. I hope this helps and saves you from being ripped of by greedy shops.

my car is a Pontiac Aztec 03 and when i shut off the ignition the key stay locked inside the switch where the key goes in, after all that the car turns off automatically and the alarm wont work nor anything inside my car,what should i do so this wont ever happen again?

most likely the solenoid on the starter or could be a key switch problem doesn't sound like a battery problem

The rotor inside the distributor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug.

Hi! #85 is an 'immobilizer' code. Most likely triggered by a missing/wrong chip in a car key (spare key - with no chip?). The code reader in the steering column is anable to recognize the key.

1\3. .33333333 percent of a given amount. 1\3 of 6 would be two, because two goes into 6 three times. 1\3 is a fraction. It can be represented in its decimal form: .3 repeating, or as a fraction. Simply divide a number by three, and dividend is 1\3rd of the original number.

This is close to the Firing Order of most GM and Chrysler small block V8 engines which is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. However, I know of no V8 engine using this firing order. So, what it is I cannot say, except it appears to be the firing order for a V8.

1.5mm

Low battery voltage? poor battery connections?

No, the v-tec system should not cause a no-start, especially the actuator solenoid. The V-tec system merely changes the way the valves operate either max lift, duration or advance (i'm not too familiar with honda's system) but a bad solenoid would either cause the "change" to always be in effect or never allow it. Check for spark, fuel pressure and make sure the valves open and close (visible thru the oil filler cap) when you turn the engine over. This will help you diagnose a no start.

Okay, this might sound stupid, but I've done it before. Make sure the car is in park, if it is in the middle of park and reverse,it won't start. Make sure it has gas, and if nothing else, it's probably your starter or alternator. Take it to the mechanic.

the largest cause of fuel pump failure is caused by the tank being run low, espesially in the winter. the pump has been installed inside the gas tank, in part, to try to keep the pump cool. when a car has been driven on a low tank, the pump will tend to get a little warm, then pumping cold gas on top of it, can sort of "shock" the pump.

I agree with the above answer; Also, the pump uses the fuel for lubrication. The ideal driving condition would always to stay above a half a tank, but also never top it off!

Oldsmobile vehicles do not have inertia/reset switches.

The Caplock.

Ensure the battery is charged. Unlock car on the key fob. Turn key in ignition to position 3 (ignition fully on but not at start) for 30s to 1 min. Return to fully off for 30s. Back to position 3 for 30s, to off for 30s. Then turn key straight to start position, engine should now catch on the started. This should reset the imobiliser. Needed after the car is jumped from another car if the battery has run flat because its french and so is afraid of work. Hope it works for you Matt

Misfiring in a car when it is cold can be caused by several things. The mist likely causes are a bad head gasket or a leaky fuel injector. Either of these can allow fluids to slowly mix overnight and the car will misfire until the excess burns off.

Put it into third and push with a bit of throttle. Back wheel might skid a bit to start with but you should start to hear and feel the engine turn over. Just get ready to lift the back wheel otherwise it might get away on you once it starts.

Cool Start is made by Crimestopper.

A list of remotes for their products can be found here:

http://www.crimestopper.com/TX_chart_2007_remote_start.htm

A video on how to program the CS34-II TX remote can be found here:

http://www.crimestopper.com/Videos/programming%20remotes.wmv

Replacement remotes can be found here:

http://www.electronicsoutfitter.com/cs34tx/crimestopper/p159238.html

http://www.gdielectronics.com/cs34ii.html

http://www.gdielectronics.com/cs34txiicf.html

Starter fluid is sprayed into the air intake or carburetor of snow blower. This allows the vehicle to have highly flammable ready to burn when it is started.

You can if you put it in neutral and push it to get a good enough start and try starting it and if it does then try to put it in drive and go

yes and no you can not push start an automatic car. but if you can get it up to about 35 to 40 mph and put it in drive it will work

but it is not worth the trouble .

I would NOT do this unless you want to take the chance of buying a new transmission.

You can not push start todays automatic cars. The engine drives the transmission hydraulic pump, not the driveshaft. Only the early Hydramatic transmissions from the 1940's and 50's you could push start if you got the vehicle up to aprox 25 mph or more.

Information for this answer was found on saturnfans discussion forum. This seems to cover removing the center part of the dashboard covering the radio, hvac controls, etc.

Overview

This manual covers the removal and installation of the factory radio into the 2004 Saturn VUE.

This task requires minimal ability to complete and can be undertaken by any dealership technician. Being an employee of the dealership, familiarity with general mechanical skills is presumed.

WARNING: BEFORE BEGINNING THE REMOVAL OF THE FACTORY RADIO UNIT, DISCONNECT THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE�S ELECTRONIC AND/OR COMPUTER SYSTEMS.

Required Tools

The following hand tools will be required to perform this task:

� #2 Phillips screwdriver

� 7mm nut driver

Setup

Park on a flat surface and set the vehicle parking brake.

Turn the ignition key to the ON position but DO NOT START THE VEHICLE.

Record the customer�s current radio station selections for programming into new radio unit.

On an automatic transmission equipped vehicle, depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever to the �L� (or Low) position.

On manual transmission equipped vehicles, depress the clutch and move the shift in 4th gear.

Trim Removal

During this procedure, use firm but straight forces when removing and installing the plastic shift and dash trim pieces. Pulling upward at an angle could case damage to them.

Lift up the lower left corner of shift trim piece until it unsnaps from the shift console.

Slide the trim piece back so that it hangs between the seats.

NOTE: THERE ARE SEVERAL ELECTRICAL ATTACHMENTS TO THIS TRIM PIECE SO IT WILL NOT SEPARATE TOO FAR FROM THE CONSOLE SO DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FORCE SEPARATION.

Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws holding in the plastic �cubby� and set the �cubby� aside. If vehicle is equipped with factory installed Comfort Package heated seat switch panel, remove the four screws and let the switch assembly hang down into the console.

Lift the dash trim piece until the assembly snaps off the dashboard by lifting the bottom.

This will expose the stock factory radio unit.

NOTE: THIS ASSEMBLY HAS MANY ELECTRICAL AND MECHANICAL CONNECTORS ATTACHED TO IT AND IT WILL NOT SEPARATE TOO FAR FROM THE DASHBOARD, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FORCE SEPARATION.

Radio Removal

Using the 7mm nut driver, loosen and remove the two hex head screws (one on the left and one on the right of the radio unit) holding the factory radio unit into the dashboard.

Slide the factory radio unit out of the dashboard by lifting on the face plate and pulling the radio unit toward the rear of the vehicle. The unit will slide out of dashboard with little resistance.

Once the radio unit has cleared the dashboard, unplug the antenna connector from the rear of the radio unit.

After the antenna has been unplugged, the radio unit will slide a little further from the dashboard and you will have access to the large factory wiring connector located on the rear of the factory radio unit. Unplug this connector from the back of the factory radio unit.

Radio Installation

Remove the replacement radio unit from the packing material.

Place the replacement radio unit into the stock radio unit�s dashboard opening.

Reconnect the factory wiring connector and antenna connector to the rear of the replacement radio unit.

Slide the replacement radio unit completely into the stock dashboard location. The radio unit will align into the opening on the right and left alignment studs.

Using the 7mm nut driver, reinstall the two hex head screws to secure the radio unit into the dashboard.

Trim Installation

Place the top edge to the dash trim assembly into the alignment slots at the top of the dash board.

Using even pressure and straight downward force, press on the dash trim assembly until it snaps into place.

Place the top edge to the shift trim piece into the alignment slots under the dash trim piece.

Using even pressure and straight downward force, press on the shift trim assembly until it snaps into place in the shift console.

NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT ALL ELECTRICAL AND MECHANICAL CONNECTORS ARE STILL ATTACHED TO THE DASH AND SHIFT TRIM ASSEMBLY. IF ANY CONNECTOR HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED, REATTACH THE CONNECTOR TO THE CORRESPONDING TRIM ASSEMBLY BEFORE CONTINUING.

Wrap Up

On an automatic transmission equipped vehicle, depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever to the �P� (or Park) position.

On manual transmission equipped vehicles, depress the clutch and move the shift to neutral.

Turn the key to the OFF position.

Reconnect the positive battery cable.

Test the new radio unit and reprogram customer�s radio station selections.

The information for the above answer was gathered from the saturnfans forums.

is the cutoff switch a normally open or normally closed switch ? If it a normally closed switch as it should be then the switch will need to activate with the ignition in order to supply fuel. There could be a problem with the fuel cutoff relay or a fuse. Also if you are using a non factory key then this might also happen.

follow the wire from the positive side of the battery it will lead you to it

Either a defective starter drive or a chipped tooth on ring gear

Manually rotate engine (socket on crankshaft) Make sure vehicle is in neutral is standard and then try to start if vehicle starts probably a chipped tooth if not probably a bad starter drive

some of the early ford and thunderbird starter motors had a peculiar high-pitched whine when starting up...this was caused by an out-of-phase coil located at the moveable pole piece arm aka pull-in-lever which engaged the bendix...the out-of- phase coil balances the motor from over-speeding and makes the motor less sensitive to normal changes in battery voltage...this particular noisy starter motor was easily identified as it had a fine-thread cable post...

the lever in question had a circumference that matched that of the armature...the result was that mechanical energy from an out-of-phase pulsating magnetic field was transmitted through the lever to the frame when the lever pulled in to engage the bendix...the lever making contact with the frame completing the mechanical path during startup...the whiney sound was caused by the magnetic field being switched on and off each time the brushes made contact with the commutator pads...somewhere around 6 khz...as the armature rotated...

the bendix or other internal parts had nothing else to do with this anomoly...swapping the lever out with another one of different vendor will solve the problem...the newer lever has a noticeably larger circumference and does not reach as deeply into the magnetic field of the out-of-phase safety coil...to my knowledge, there were two or three different vendors who made these motors in finished form, each version slightly different from the others...i have heard the DOAZ standardised frame had been made by zongshan broad ocean...

interestingly, the safety coil had a second internal coil wrapped inside to keep the lever pulled in when the magnetic field dropped away as the torque load on the motor decreased once the engine was started...but this second coil contributed very little effect on the whiney anomaly.

It seems to me that the contacts inside the switch may be going bad. Or the solenoid/starter may be on the brink of going bad. It is normal to turn the key all the way into start position and most accessories go out temporarily until car engine starts and then when key switch is released back into run position the rest of the accessories return power.

Thx, Ted AKA (Tn itup)

You can view the Owner Guide online ( which includes the fuse box diagram ) at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides