Car Starting Problems

Let's see, you are possibly creating a spark right next to a hundreds of gallons of highly flammable liquid. Sound safe to you? Would it not be a wise decision to push the car away from the pumps before jumping it? I think it would. What do you think?

Click the link for a diagram.

First I will describe the CMP sensor location, then at the bottom of this post tell you how to get there, ok? The how to get thre directions are from a 2001, but so similar as to be the same.

The CMP, or Cam Position Sensor, senses TDC on the number 1 cylinder on the 6 cyl 2.7 Optima and the 4 cyl 2.4. What this means to you..on the v6 you are going to have to remove the plastic shroud and surge tank from the engine, as the number 1 cyl is the top left facing the engine from the front. Luckily, it is mounted on the cyl head so once you get to it its a piece of cake. One bolt to secure it to the engine and a plug at the other end.

While you are in there, replace the surge tank gasket and check all vacuum hoses for leaks or cracking, as this is the best opportunity you will have to do anything under the surge tank. Check the wiring going to your injectors and the connections, pull your PCV valve and clean it with carb cleaner, etc. This is a great time to replace your plugs and wire set if you are going to keep the car, trust me unless you are inclined, you will not want to do this again...not hard, just about 2 hrs the first time.

To know you are removing the right part, just search 2003 optima crankshaft pos sensor and you will find some photos.

01)Remove the oil filler cap.

02)Remove the (4) bolts holding the engine cover in place.

The front 3 wires and plugs should be accessible at this point. These are the easy ones. Feel free to replace them now.

Now for the back 3. In order to get to the back 3 plugs and wires you need to remove the intake manifold (air surge by Kia's phrasing) completely. I thought it was a lengthy process and the dealer explained it would take 3.5 hours of labor by a professional. You will be surprised at how easy this is.

03) Remove the air intake hose from the air filter housing side and the throttle body side. There is a hose which leads to a pipe on the engine. Be sure to remove this on the engine side. There is no clamp on this hose. Place the air hose to the side out of the way.

04) Remove the 2 bolts (should be 10mm) holding the throttle linkage cable brackets on the front side of the engine.

05) Remove the 2 botls (should be 10mm) holding the placement bracket for the breather hose (will be a short foot long hose connecting the front side of the engine to the back side. There are clamps on the hose.) Remove of the hose isn't necessary but it does get it out of the way so I would recommend removing the hose as well.

06) Remove the 3 bolts on the front of the intake manifold. 12mm

07) Remove the 2 longer bolts from the top of the intake manifold 12mm

08) remove the two nuts on the outer ends of the intake manifold. 12mm.

Also ensure the electrical connectors on the throttle body housing are disconnected, there should be 2.

Now here's where it gets tricky. The following is all done on the back side of the manifold/throttle body linkage area.

09) On the rear passenger side of the intake manifold there is a bolt, 10mm. Remove it. This will probably also have a grounded line attached to it. this is a bracket for some fuel hoses.

10) Below that you will find a 12mm bolt, remember it but don't remove it just yet.

11) There are 2 bolts holding the throttle body linkage bracket. Remove those and place the linkage out of the way. Next part gets kind of tight.

12) The 12mm bolt you found before, remove it. Directly in line with that bolt going from passenger side to driver side should be 2 more bolts evenly spaced. You will need to remove these bolts. Best way for me for the 2 other bolts was to work from the driver side as it provided more room.

Once those bolts are removed, the intake manifold should come right off. Place it to the side, replace your plugs and wires and installation is opposite of removal.

Presuming you've got and automatic gearbox: To be able to engage neutral there needs to be power from the battery. So either jump start the car or charge the battery, but you need to find out why the battery died in the first place. If you left lights on something like that then charge the battery by taking it for a long drive. If the battery goes flat again after that then there may be a problem with your alternator or the battery won't hold a charge, get the battery tested and go from there

Connect positive cable to positive post on battery and negative cable to any metal body part or engine part.

If this is one of the cars with the battery under the rear seat, there should still be jump start posts under the hood. Look for a red plastic cover marked with a plus sign.

check for low alternator charge voltage when heater fan is on if alternator has anything lower then 13.5 volts have alternator load tested.. idead charge voltage is 13.8 to 14.5 volts is alt checks good scan abs codes and see whats up auto computers are very sensitive to voltage loos or overcharging. email me with more if you need help g ps check battery connections if any corrosion puul off batt cables negitive first pull center screw out and check both sides of bolt cables for corrosion if found soak cable ends in baking soda/water mixture to get rid of acid then wire brush cables also check the negative battery cable has a second wire that grounds your chassis. if that wire is hot when engine runs with heater on it means you have a bad body ground turn engine off remve black wire to chassis or radiator support and sand the terminal and sand the metal it attaches to. engine grounds are becoming more of a problem due to the use of more plastic being used means less ground points and aluminum tend to oxidize ground connections faster then cast iron does

In the case of my 2003 Expedition, it turned out to be a bad starter motor after 55K miles.

Open the hood and look at the engine front drivers side locate the pump turn the cap remove ti look inside the cap it is a dipstick .

Yes, a bad ground wire can cause all kinds of electrical problems in a car's operating system. The worst of these problems is, of course, the car refusing to start. The starter motor requires a great deal of electricity to ignite and the "punch" isn't there with a poor ground. However, if the battery is fully charged, some of the electrical systems in the car will still work (overhead lamp, radio, etc.) even with a weak ground. But, continued jumps and attempts at starting with a bad ground will eventually deplete the battery and cause all systems to fully fail -- the car will be flat-line dead.

Many times, the ground cable does not need to be replaced. All contact points simply need to be thoroughly cleaned of corrosion, rust, and dirt to remedy the grounding problem. Follow these simple steps in your backyard and save a bunch of money at the shop:

1.) Make sure car is off and disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. First, check the battery to assure it has a good charge. If it does, continue to step 2... If it does not, buy a new battery, and continue to step 3...

2.) With a baking soda and water mixture and a wire brush (or toothbrush), clean the battery posts until they shine.

3.) Dismantle the battery clamps at the end of the cables and clean all parts using a wire brush (or toothbrush) saturated in a baking soda and water mixture until all parts shine.

4.) Trace the ground cable to its grounding contact point(s) with the car's sheet metal. Clean the entire grounding contact area using the same method as above. In some instances, you will need to remove dead bugs and dirt that may be collected around the contact point(s).

5.) Pat dry all cleaned components with a shop rag.

6.) Reassemble battery clamps at the cable ends.

7.) Clean out the battery tray and replace the battery and reconnect cables to battery posts. Connect red positive (+) first then connect black ground (-). Tighten all parts.

8.) Dab a bit of petroleum jelly on the clamps and battery posts. This will slow the corrosive process that probably shorted the ground in the first place.

9.) Get in the car and crank it up and call your spouse outside to flaunt your skills.

10.) Drive to NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilly, or your local "Joe Mechanic" Shop and have a diagnostic completed on your starter, battery, and alternator to make sure nothing has been damaged and are all in good working order.

take it to a qualifed mechanic shop and NEVER spray the engine again let the engine dry off and then try to start it because it could just be a fail safe put in by the manufacturers to stop the engine electrics from shorting out and frying the ECU but if you have fryed the ECU some how you would be better off buying a new car because the ECU is one of the most expensive things to replace on a car

Next time, try this. Turn on the ignition but don't attempt to start it. Do that about 3 times and THEN crank it to see if it will fire. If it does, the problem is probably fuel pressure. maybe you just don't have enough fuel pressure when you crank the engine. It's possible that the pressure regulator is allowing pressure to drop while the vehicle isn't running and it can't build pressure quickly enough when you engage the starter. When you turn the key on and let the fuel pump run for a couple seconds it allows the fuel line to build pressure. Just a thought. It could also be low compression, old, tired sparkplugs or general need for a tuneup.

the immobilizer system can not bedeactivated. it is programmed into the electronic control module

Check the starter! It happened to my 2000 dodge durango too.

It depends how you've had them done, and how you're maintaining it.

If you're using chemicals and wires to maintain your dreads, or do an excessive amount of palm rolling at the base, then they will never thicken up much. By forcing them into a specific compact shape, the dread just won't have the capacity to absorb all the hairs that normally fall out. These dreads will grow faster but will always be as thin as they were originally made to be.

If you're not forcing the dread into a compact shape at its base, then yes it will grow thicker. A dread does this by absorbing every hair in the area, including the ones that that normally fall out of your head. Remember the average human head loses 50-100 hairs a day!

Those dreads will grow slower, but thicker. Over time some dreads will merge together. You can fix this by ripping them apart if you want.

all starters have a built-in fuse to protect them now depending on what kind of car you have it may or may not use another fuse to further protect the starter but you can check your vehicles manualv

It can.

No

Where is the igniter located on a toyota corolla 89 dlx.

where is the fuel cut off swith for my astra 1.6 mark 4

The EPC light came on today on a 2001 Seat Ibiza, along with the car's lock suddenly locking. After 3 or 4 efforts, we figured that the problem was solved unlocking the car using the key while the engine was on (the electronics on the car always blocked when the EPC came on). After that the EPC light switched off. I hope you can solve the problem this way.

put door key in passenger door turn it to the left and hold it this should de-activate the theft system

there is a sensor on the brake (so the pedal has to be pushed to shift from park), a cable interlock on the ignition switch (so the key has to be in the run position to shift from park) the interlock solenoid is located at the front of the shifter mount (under the plastic console piece) where it meets the body. there should be a small access panel about the size of a golf ball on the drivers side of the center console. Just below where the drivers knee would be. Take out the screw, pop out the panel, stick your finger (or screwdriver) in the hole. You are feeling for a small plastic rectangle, and is spring loaded. this is the manual release. !!DONT FORGET TO SET THE PARKING BRAKE!! Push the plastic piece toward the front of the vehicle to unlock the shifter. gently, and slowly pull the shifter out of park. I say slowly because you dont want your finger getting caught in anything.

The first and easiest answer is to remove the wheel covers and listen again for the clicking noise. It could be a pebble loose inside a wheel cover or a tire valve stem clicking against the wheel cover.

If it's not that easy, and your truck has CV joints, I would suspect a bad CV joint. Look for a torn CV boot.