Car Starting Problems

You need a new battery.

There may be a compression problem here. Get a test done, this will check condition of rings and valves.

Though your alternator is constantly supplying power to your car while it is running, an incomplete circuit could cause your car to 'wind down.'

Try pouring some coca-cola onto your battery cables where they connect to the battery to remove all that crud that collects there over time. It works, and looks pretty cool!

I love science :D

I hope that helps you out.

Antifreeze leak top of engine

passenger side - under dash - way up to the right side there are about 8 relays there.

what do you reset the cehck engine light patriot manual transmission 2008?

thanks for you support.

Check engine light off, codes cleared; cold start.

-warm up engine 5 minutes (or until closed loop is reached--5 min is usually plenty)

-drive (w/ steady throttle) at a steady speed between 40 and 60 mph for 8 min

-stop and idle 3 min

-drive (w/ steady throttle) at a speed above 20 mph for 2 min

-turn key off, leave off 10 min

If you have the 2004 model of the RX8 this could be due to the starter motor,

Mazda themselves have noticed this problem and have created an upgraded starter motor on the RX8 but this dose come at a cost, Hope this helps

Does the check engine light come on in the dash? If so, it could be a bad main relay. It's located behind the panel that covers the from the driver's side door, underside of the steering column, and meets with the left hand side of the center console. It's black, and has two connections running to it.

No, only change the defective ones.

It depends.

If your car uses the special long-life coolant dex-cool (orange) no immediate damage with normal 50 water 50 antifreeze. However, according to GM for my Oldsmobile Intrigue doing this would reduce the suggested coolant maintenance point from 150,000 miles down to 30,000 miles.

If your car uses normal (green) anti-freeze and you were to use dex-cool it could permanently damage the vehicle since the particles not designed for the vehicle will always remain.

So what did the manufacturer suggest as optimal and what did you put? And what do you consider as damage? Introducing a hassle or complete breakage?

Could be flat battery - check with a good meter, it should show at least 11.9 volts at rest. Check both terminals are clean and tight. Check ground wire where it's bolted to the frame for clean and tight.

A fully charged battery will read 12.6 volts with the engine off. At 75% charge it will read 12.4 volts, at 50% it will read 12.2 volts, & at 25% charge it will read 12 volts. Any less and the battery is basically dead. Must be checked with a digital volt meter.

Could use more info such as make, model, engine and year.

Easy one , you have a bad starter. The brushes need to be replaced if your handy enough to rebuild it yourself or have a friend that can, or just replace the whole starter for way more money.

Low battery power, or probably a loose battery terminal or ground wire. Follow and check em all...!!

See if the battery has water. Then see if it will jump with jumper cables. If it will start with jumper cables, your battery had enough amperage to make the lights work and the radio to play but not enough to start the car.

One possibility is a vapor lock in the fuel system. If the tank, fuel pump, and injectors went completely dry, it is very difficult to get fuel flowing again. The air in the fuel injectors blocks the flow. Your engine manual may specify a procedure to help clear a vapor lock, or you may have to take it to a dealer for service.

You may have also damaged the charging system or triggered an antitheft system by draining the battery all the way. (Possibly the key was left ON when the car ran out of gas, causing the battery to go flat while you went for gas).

if its a modern jeep it probably needs to have its immobilizer reset after changing the battery ask a main dealer

Which model is it, year etc. on a 95 pug 306 XL 1.4 its quite difficult to get at ( im trying to change mine now) if you look at the rocker cover (top of the engine) its towards the cockpit at the back of the engine on the right. an easier way to find it is to follow the leads off of the battery one should go behind the engine and to the starter

Open it, remove the battery and place the car remote in a bag with Silica Gel to dry it out completely.

Replace the battery with a NEW one and put it all back together.

Next you'll need to read the owners manual for instructions on "pairing" the remote to the car. They'll use a different term so you'll just have to look up the remote.

Typically the little door lock remotes are quite robust and can tolerate a little water but they won't operate when wet and won't operate if there is a residue left behind.

Have you checked the battery for loose connections? wait is dis on a game

Fix it, then...by checking the fuel pump, fuel fuse or fuse linkage, make sure the MAF (mass air flow...where the air filter is located), fuel filter is not clogged, starter is ok, or check to see if the fuel shut-off isn't tripped. I'd start by betting a repair manual for the car and educate yourself. You can pick them up for very cheap on amazon, I got one for less than $5. Hope this helps.

sounds to me like a fuel pump if the engine continued to run but accelerator did not work then check for broken or disconnected accelerator cable both at the pedal and the throttle plate

Oh my...I just happened to me 6 times in the last 6 months...same vechicle. My van is getting fixed for the 6th time@##0# 1998 with 124K perfect condition...well Ok not quite perfect but pretty close. This time the dealer might??? have found the answer. There is a short in the instrument panel.,it was drawing 9 volts instread of the normal 2 volts. I have spent around 6k in the last 6 months and abount to spend 1k more. It is time to trade this puppy in for a Toyota or Honda!!!!!

It's ontop the starter and has been for years and it's called the starter solenoid. You send 12 volts to it when you crank the car.