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Car Starting Problems
Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.
5,524 Questions
How do you replace a Ingnition control module on a 1996 Pontiac trans am?
I think there is no 96 Trans Am. The Trans Sport module is on the rear center of the engine. Remove and replace it with standard US or metric tools. There are three electrical plugs to remove from socket.
The Trans am didnt die till 2002 there was one in 96.
Can I use a 2004 alero to jump start another car?
If you're absolutely certain that YOU know what you're doing and the person connecting the jumper cables to the OTHER car knows what he/she is doing, it will be okay.
On the other hand, if you reverse the polarity of the batteries, bad things can happen.
But, when we bought our new car I told my wife to NEVER jump start anything, never tow anything and don't take it off road. Following that advice, her car has performed well and for quite a while.
She didn't listen to me about food and drinks in the car and she allowed the grandkids to eat snacks there a few times and we have a crappy looking back seat.
In 24 hours it will be charged enough to start the car. You really need a much larger charger for a car battery.
How do you disable an ignition kill switch?
If I remember correctly, an ignition "Kill Switch" is a secret switch (or button) that must be pushed into a particular position for the ignition system to start the car.... That being said.... Simple. If it's a button that has to be pressed for the (key) ignition to start the car, duct tape it in place. Same for a "light switch" switch". OR...you could solder a wire to circumvent the switch..... :) Now remember...if the switch uses a thicker wire....you're going to want to use a thicker wire when you solder it :)
It depends on a lot of factors. Some cars have a distributor cap that is sensitive to moisture. If yours has a distributor cap, pop it off and check the inside for spark "traces" or cracks or any kind of imperfection. If you see any kind of trace or crack, replace the distributor cap. If you don't have a distributor cap and/or don't have a problem with your distributor cap, check the air intake. You need to have some kind of carburator/throttle body de-icer. There is usually a tube that draws air across the exhaust manifold to keep ice from building up when the gasoline flashes to vapor at the injector or carburator. There is usually a sensor and vacuum line at the air intake that controls a valve to draw air across the exhaust manifold when the temperature drops. If that part isn't working you'll have problems in rainy weather. You will literally have an ice ball form if that circuit isn't working.
Why is my Car clicking when trying to start?
The "clicking" is probably your solenoid trying to engage the starter. The problem is most likely a low battery which is strong enough to power the solenoid (hence the clicking), but not strong enough to turn the engine over. Your battery may have been run down (by leaving your lights on, for example), or it may simply be old and need replacing. Usually it's low battery charge or corroded battery terminals. I can also be starter and a number of other problems, but start with the usual suspects. If you can start it with a battery boost/booster cables from another vehicle, start it long enough to take it to an auto parts retailer. They are usually willing to test batteries and charging systems. Find out if it's the battery or if the charging system is not keeping the battery charged. Your battery only STORES electrical energy, and if the alternator can't keep the battery charged there won't be enough energy in the battery when you try to start it, and the starter will just click. On the other hand, sometimes a battery gets old and tired and it won't hold a charge any more... the results are the same, so you have to have the battery tested. UNFORTUNATELY, when an older battery goes completely dead it will often just give up and you could have both alternator AND battery problems. Anyway... have it all tested and you'll know where you are.
Why is the security light blinking and the car won't start?
Not enough information regarding why the car won't start but as to he security light; it's always blinking when the engine is off.
96 f150 clicks once won't start starts when jumped at solenoid?
My 1999 buick Regal gs low coolant light stays even though levels are ok?
Take the coolant level sensor off the radiator & clean it out. The sensor is located passenger side under the radiator cap next to the battery. Best to pull the battery & headlight assembly. Metal retaining clip holds it into the radiator. I just took mine out for the same reason, found alot of "sludge" around the sensor probe. Cleaned it out with some sensor cleaner and soap, reinstalled, refilled the antifreeze and light is out.
Possibly the connection at the battery. Corrosion between the cable and the battery. The jumper cables are only connected to the cable and nothing is getting through from the battery in the car. Sure you have connection at both ends of the cables. It may not be the battery, starter may be bad or if the cables are badly corroded, the corrosion can work down the cable inside of the insulation and that will make them not work.
97 Lincoln cont will crank but wont start.?
Check the mass airflow sensor or have it checked. You can disconnect it which will allow the engine to start if this is the problem.
This will at least allow you to trouble shoot this component and may allow you to get to a trustworthy independent garage if you have one.
If an 1986 ford f-150 with a 302 turns over but no fire to the plugs?
Replace ignition coil Check distributor cap and rotor
What happens if you try to start your car and the timing belt is broken?
It probably will NOT start AND will damage the engine! 2nd Answer It is true that if you try to start the engine, it won't start. But it won't damage your engine. This problem happens alot. When a belt breaks, only the lower part of the engine will actually rotate when you crank it, (like it was normally designed to do). However, the upper part (the camshaft where the 12 0r 16 valves are) won't rotate. The reason is that the belt is no longer attached to it bcuz it broke. When the belt is attached to the lower crankshaft and the upper camshaft, the pistens move up and down and the 12 or 16 valves open and close as it was designed to do. This is the result of when you put the key and start the engine. This is how engine parts operate: Key goes in and turns the sw. Power is applied to the starter The starter begins to turn the flywheel, which is attached to the engine. The flywheel is attached to the Lower Crankshaft, and so are the pistons and timing belt. As the crankshaft turns, the pistons begin an up and down movement. At the same time, (by means of the "TIMING BELT" which protrudes to the top of the engine and is attached to the upper Camshaft), the Camshaft also rotates. This in turn causes the valves to open and close. Also, the igniton or known as the distributor, has a rotor and is also rotated by this camshaft sending out electricity to each sparkplug wire and sparkplug. Now, the job of the valves, is to allow gas and air to enter and escape from the cyl. (piston chambers). So, when air and gas enter, the piston travels up on compression stroke..Meaning the gas and air are being compressed. Now, when this happens, the sparkplug fires in the cylinder/piston chamber and the piston is sent down on a power stroke, creating power for the transmission to use. So.. You can see that the timimg belt is an important part and needs careful attention when replacing. Hope this tour was of help. JP If you have a non interference engine nothing will be damaged and your car wont start. If you have a interference engine your pistons will hit and bend your valves therfore you will have to take your cylinder head off and replace valves and seats, headgasket and any other gaskets in the way to take the head off =$$$$ If you try to start the engine, nothing will happen, you will hear the car crank, but it wont start. If the timing belt breaks while you are driving, you will severely screw up your valves, unless you have a non-interference engine.
Can an alternator blow if jump starting another car?
SHORT ANSWER:
Normally speaking, with a typical jumpstart, it SHOULD NOT damage an alternator.
LONG ANSWER (not a typical jumpstart):
The only ways I even remotely see jumpstarting a vehicle damaging one's alternator are:
1. If the alternator is already severely or, in rare circumstances, slightly damaged.
2. The amperage required by the other vehicle's starter severely exceeds the maximum output amperage of the alternator AND the maximum (cold [?*]) cranking amperage of the battery together.
Usually, in most typical jumpstarting cases, the battery in your vehicle will supply any excess amperage required above the altornator's output.
3. If one's vehicle is MUCH smaller than the vehicle it is jumpstarting and one's vehicle does not have a battery with a maximum (cold [?*]) cranking amperage required to start a MUCH larger vehicle --- typically a larger vehicle means a larger motor and therefore a larger starter which will require a (significantly) higher amperage to turn the motor over with the (minimum) troche and speed required to start the vehicle's motor. (Such as in my story below.)
(possibly)
4. If the battery in one's vehicle is extremely low in power --- such as a vehicle that was recently jumpstarted and did not have enough running/charging time pass to get a good charge on the battery before attempting to jumpstart another vehicle --- and cannot produce the amperage required by the other vehicle's starter, the alternator may/will be forced to supply almost all the amperage required by the other vehicle's starter; which can easily exceed the maximum output of one's alternator depending on the maximum amperage rating of one's alternator (with a possible output range of a factory alternator of being anywhere from 50 to 150 amps for a typical car or small truck and 125 to 350+ amps for a truck) and the amperage required by the other vehicle's starter.
REFERENCE: self-experience with many bad alternators (Seven in two and a half years to be exact!) and jumpstarting in my first car ('95 Honda Civic LX)
MY STORY:
Only once did my alternator die shortly after jumpstarting a vehicle, a big heavy duty, I cannot even remember the manufacturer anymore, v8 truck (I did not even think to turn off the sound system, but I did turn it down, which was still pulling nearly 20 amps by itself, but thats out of the almost 180 amps it pulled turned up as loud as it would go before the sound started to get distorted) his started required (guessing) around 650 amps (cold start on 40 degrees F night) my alternator rated at 85 amps and my battery being 5 years old and only ratted at 350 amps and 425 max cranking amps. Needless to say that this also melted the insulation of the 2 gage jumper cable I used. (I should have known better than to do that, but I wasn't thinking about it at the time.) Shortly after the cables started smoking I gave up and less than 10 miles down the road my batter light came on, by the time I got home the battery itself was down to 7.14 volts from running the headlights and windshield wipers for the next 25 miles (30-35 minutes.)
After all was said and done I've replaced the alternator and decided to go ahead and replace the battery, just incase it was also damaged. Since then I don't think I ever went more than 7 months without the alternator failing, thankfully Autozone has a 1 year warranty on the alternator and battery so I never had to pay for the part again, all the alternators for the Honda were unfortunately "refurbished" which is probably why they kept failing, the third alternator ruined my battery by pulling 11.5 amps to ground when the motor was off (but when the car was running, it could charge the hell out of the battery.) The forth alternator was producing a crazy 37+ volts when the motor was running. Thankfully; after the second alternator, I put a voltmeter in the 12v auxiliary plug (cigarette lighter); because, that high of voltage could have easily ruined a lot of things like the battery, computer, radio, amplifiers, and many many more items if left unnoticed. All the other alternators just died on me without a (noticed) reason.
Why would a Nissan Pulsar 1992 not start it wont start tried jumper leads could it be the fuel pump?
Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run
WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START
Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?
To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem.
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.
STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS
What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.
If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit.
Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.
ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS
If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps.
Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening.
Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps.
If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices.
If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.
If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.
An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.
A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up.
A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings).
If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all.
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.
ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump
On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.
On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.
There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.
On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.
Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.
ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).
Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.
With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.
A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.
New battery and new alternator still charging at 8 amps?
Possibly a bad connection between the alternator and battrie. use a volt meter. put one lead on the possitive post of the battrie and one lead on the alternator b+ terminal. run the engine, put the fan on and lights on. the meter should not read above .02v roughly. if it does theres a problem with the cable or connections. do the same on the ground circuit. or use jupper cables between the alternator and battrie.
you may have to get the wiring harness replaced.....about 250.00 to replace it
What does the code P0505 means on a 1995 Nissan Altima SE 1995 Nissan Altima SE?
"Idle system control malfunction", which means, there is a problem with the volume of air going into your engine, via the IAC valve., If your car, when you start it, isn't accelerated up to aprox.,1000 rpm, and then decelerates in a minute or two, it´s likely the IAC valve is done for., Or if the car stays in high rpm, or dies out, then, most definetly its the IAC valve.
Electric door locks stop working on a Nissan 200 sx ser?
I am having the same problem with my 96 200sx ser. In my case the door lock works at times and other times don't work. I found out that the problem in my case is the Smart Entrance Control Unit which is a metal box under the dash. Mine has a big plug and a small plug going into the metal box. When I disconected the box my locks stop working all together. If anyone out there has a different solution to the problem please let me know. I called the dealer and the price of the Smart Entrance Control unit is $720.00
sounds like you have an alternator that is not charging the battery. Most computer systems in cars require a min of 11.2-11.6 volts to function. The brake light is probably also the warning light for ABS and requires power to the motor (ABS) and if the ABS computer doesnt sense the correct voltage it will set a light
How many times can a car battery cycle?
Automotive batteries are not known for their "deep cycle" capabilities. If possible, don't allow them to EVER discharge completely.
Check the fuel filter, pressure regulator and also make certain that the "new" fuel pump is functioning properly; remember that SOME new parts don't work either.
If the "check engine" light is on, the computer has stored a diagnostic code number. You can read that code number by using a code scanner. All of the information is available for the computer to tell you exactly what's wrong. You can borrow, rent or buy a code scanner at most auto parts retailers.
