Car Starting Problems

The crank shaft sensor may have died and the engine controller is using other sensors to keep the engine operational in "limp" mode.

Well I have just gotten over this problem in my cavalier recently so my advice is to look at the engine at night time in dim light where the starter is l;ocated. If you see smoke or a spark on cables around the starter that is most likely the problem. If a new starter wont fix it then a new battery is my next guess. Well I have just gotten over this problem in my cavalier recently so my advice is to look at the engine at night time in dim light where the starter is l;ocated. If you see smoke or a spark on cables around the starter that is most likely the problem. If a new starter wont fix it then a new battery is my next guess.

Check the battery, or the alternator, check for a missing fuss or maybe your spark plugs aren't catching, check the gas line, get more gas, check the transmission. If your car hasn't been running for a long time then let it run for a couple minutes.

Try this:

Next time you want to start the engine turn the key to the ON position for a couple seconds. It won't take long. You should hear the faint hum from the fuel pump in the tank. Turn the key off then immediately try to start the engine. Do that for a few mornings and if it consistently starts on the first try, you probably have a regulator that's leaking down. It's not a problem unless it leaks to the OUTSIDE. You have to decide how important it is to pay for the repairs.

If that doesn't give you any help, try connecting it to a computer diagnostic code reader.

The camshaft position sensor is located on the side of the engine towards the front of the car. It is toward the drivers side just below the fuel rail.

thanks for wasting peoples time who ever wrote the last answer gas in plugs changed

There are three common sources of no spark on all cylinders:

- failure of the coil,

- failure of the ignition control module ("ignitor"), or

- the button contact in the distributor cap is sticking.

The ignitor is an expensive part to replace (list is over $400), and

some less-common failures are difficult to diagnose. The common

failures are easily diagnosable since there is a tachometer output and

engine computer gets a feedback signal indicating that the ignitor

thinks it has triggered a spark. Indications that it's still good are if

- the tach jumps when cranking the engine, and

- if there are no engine computer error codes.

The ignitor is mounted on the left strut tower where it's easily seen,

but you'll need to unclip the air filter cover to remove it.

The coil is less expensive, but it's inside the distributor and thus

more difficult to replace. You'll need to remove the air filter cover

then the distributor cap to test the coil. The primary should measure

less than 1 ohm between the screw terminals, and the secondary should

measure between 9K and 15K ohms between either screw terminal and where

the distributor cap button makes contact. A resistance lower than 9K

ohms indicates the coil has at least partially failed and should be

replaced.

Tools to replace coil and distributor parts

#2 Phillips screwdriver for coil mounting screws

7mm (1/4") nut driver for coil terminals

8mm driver (or #2 Phillips) for distributor cap screws

10mm socket (or #3 Phillips) for air duct clamp

12mm socket and 3"+ extension for distributor hold-down bolts

12mm open-end wrench for throttle cable

Small screwdriver or plastic tool to

Remove distributor o-ring

Release plug wires from distributor cap

yes it can and what type of auto.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/67854-98-catera-crankshaft-position-sensor-replacement.html

In order for the vehicle to start, you need to have a spark, fuel and oxygen. If you're not getting an adequate oxygen supply, your vehicle won't start. Have you checked your intake? Or perhaps your exhaust system could be clogged as well.

Defective ignition switch?

I found a site that lists the trouble codes and offers a description as to its meaning.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

This stalling could be the security system besides all the other obvious possibilities like fuel pump,etc. The car will turn over but not start if the security system does not properly recognize the "security chip" in the key. Try spraying electrical cleaner in the keyhole and on the key. Be liberal with it it is non-conductive and cannot hurt electrical parts. Dan

You need to check for power to the starter soleonoid when the key is turned If you have power to the small terminal and the starter is not turning then you quite possibly have a bad earth to the engine/gearbox.

"If you connected the battery in reverse that will certainly fry the alternator and cause damage to any other polarity sensitive components as well.

The alternator is NOT suposed to spark, it charges by by generating alternating current which is converted to direct current through a diode pack known as the rectifier, and the voltage is regulated by some more electronic wizardry called (amazingly enough) a regulator.

Normally when alternators go wrong the charging warning light will glow, and you will get the wrong readings from your voltmeter (if your car has one)."

it can be as simple as a missing fuel pump fuse or as bad as broken valves and bad piston rings

check fuses (look for missing fuses aswel)

check cylinder pressure with a simple gauge you can get at autto zone for 10 bucks

I have a 96 tercel and it stopped run while I was driving it, the problem was bad battery cables and the motor would not trun and the lights on the dish board would dim when the key was truned, lastly the cables connected to the battery had alot of white "stuff" all over them. Cables changed end of story car starts fine now.

disconect the battery jack up the vehicle and support it on jack stands. you will find the starter on the back of the engine above the oil pan just to the left of the center of the vehicle.Ive found that if you take the air box out you can unplug the smaller wire from the connector.After that there are two bolts remove the right one.Next go under the vehicle after making sure it is supported so it wont fall on you.Now find the starter and there is one bolt facing toward the back of the starter.Remove the bolt drop the starter down enough so you can remove the other wire that comes from the battery.Once that is off you"ll have to turn and twist the starter, and angle it to get it out, its a tight fit.Im sure the two starter bolts were 14 mm and 13mm on the starter cable from the battery.Instulation is reverse.Hope this helps.

I had the same problem with mine. My regal had been sitting for almost a year. It was the fuel pump. And from what I hear it's very common to lose the fuel pump on these cars if they sit for any length of time. If you do it yourself go ahead and get the manual - it's worth it(and it's about $20). If you're not very experienced with car repair - I wasn't - plan on about 4-5 hours (taking it slow).

You'll know it's the fuel pump if you don't hear the pump whine as it pressures up when you turn the key to the on position.

Have you made sure it has spark?

Sounds like you might have a battery problem. The clicking sounds are most likely the solenoid engaging and disengaging...there's probably enough battery power to engage your solenoid, but not enough to turn the engine over. You can check your lights, horn, etc., for evidence of a bad battery, and of course, always start by checking (and cleaning) your battery connections. Good luck.

I wouldn't judge battery by lights, etc. My car wouldn't crank over...just lights on dash...tried jumping, etc. The lights were bright when not jumping. Turned out at Autozone (free check) that my battery had 12.0 V, needed 12.2V to check, and was only 24% charged (even tho lights were bright, etc). After charging for 3 hours, it was only 36% charged and was bad. I replaced the battery and the car immediately cranked and started. Hope this helps.

Check the crank sensor, it's most likely bad. also the crank sensor cad take out the cam sensor. Could be fuel starvation: * Plugged fuel filter * Under-pressured fuel pump - starting to fail See "Related Questions" below

Have you replaced the fuel filter? It sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off at shutdown. Can be a fuel pressure regulator problem.

There is no serviceable fuel filter on the 1998 Neon. It is inline with the fuel pump. The tank will have to be dropped and fuel pump replaced.

I don't really know what kind of car do you have so I will just put it in genaral. I would check the distributor and the "ignition control modual".Sometime cleaning the air intake might help too ( just get the carburetor cleanner and spay it in while starting it..just to help it open and close better).