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Car Starting Problems
Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.
5,524 Questions
2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 wont start on first crank why is this But does on second crank?
It could be low fuel pressure caused by weak fuel pump or restricted fuel filter.
Why would a car die while driving then start back up with no problem?
hi i had a problem with my 87 Lincoln just like you it could be a few things is it fuel injected it could be a bad injector or a bad controll module like i had when they get hot the car dies without warning when it cools it starts have your mechanic check the module
AnswerHave a mechanic check the knock/speed sensor(s). Worked for my 1990 Volvo 240DL. AnswerCouple of things your may want to investigate:The first is that you may have water in your fuel. This problem is prevalent in areas where there is or has been flooding, or areas of consistently high humidity. A bottle of DryGas will usually take care of this. I always keep a spare bottle in my car. Crud in the fuel line may also be a factor.
The second thing you may want to have checked is the alternator belt. It may be glazing which means that it will slip on the pullies and your alternator will slow down and your car's electrical needs are being supplied by the battery, even when driving. If your car dies while driving with a glazed alternator belt, the car can be re-started after a short while, but you will not be able to do this very many times without replacing the alternator belt. When the car is running on the battery, you will notice all elelctrical functions reduce (headlights dim, horn and turn signals are sluggish, etc...).
There are a number of other things that could cause the car to die while driving, but these. in my experience, are the most common.
Answermy Pontiac did that, was a bad crankshaft sensor.Dependig on what type of car it is, iwould agree the crank sensor could be the culprit, but also, the cam sensor or hall effects sensor (basically the same except for price and location.) It could be as simple as a bad ground in the engine compartment. Knowing year, make and model is essential for diagnostics due to the endless variables...jm
What do you check next if your 89 Mazda 323 with a new coil won't spark when turning it over?
I assume you have new spark plugs, ignition leads, distributor cap and rotor. Also verify that you have 6 Volts at the coil negative terminal when the igniton switch is in the "Start" position. If all the above is correct, then the problem may be the trigger module in your distributor. I suggest getting a replacment from an auto-wrecker (cheaper than new from the dealer. Good luck Malcolm
I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM A FEW YEARS AGO. IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE LINKAGE ON THE PITMAN OR THE IDLER ARM?. I TIGHTENED IT UP AND IT SEEMED TO HELP A LOT. IT REDUCED THE SHIMMY A GREAT DEAL. YOU MIGHT TRY INSPECTING THE TIRE TREAD AND LOOK FOR TREAD SEPARATING. THIS CAN CAUSE A SHIMMY OF THE FRONT END WHEN ACCELERATING TO HIGH SPEEDS. AND POSSIBLY CAUSE IT TO PULL TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT DEPENDING ON WHICH TIRE HIT THE CURB. YOU MIGHT SEE THE STEEL BELT SHOWING THROUGH THE TREAD.(A VERY GOOD CLUE). WHEN YOU HAVE THE TIRE RAISED UP OFF THE GROUND, GRAB HOLD OF THE SUSPECTED TIRE AND TRY TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY PLAY IN THE ASSEMBLY / MOUNTING. SEE IF IT RATTLES ANY THING. CHECK ALSO FOR POSSIBLE "BUBBLES" IN THE TREAD. (TREAD SEPARATING OR "MAY POPS" ). CHECK THE TIRE PRESSURE TOO. LOW AIR IN THE TIRE CAN ALSO A PULL. CHECK ALSO ALL THE SUSPENSION AND THE STEARING ASSEMBLY & BUSHINGS (i.e. TIE RODS & LINKAGE, SHOCKS ETC..) FOR WEAR. SOMETIMES THEY JUST MIGHT NEEDED TO BE TIGHTENED UP FROM EXCESS PLAY OR LOOSENESS I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU. AUTO ZONE.COM HAS A SECTION FOR THE "DIY".
What would cause a 1991 Jeep Comanche to start then quickly die?
According to Haynes Repair Manual 1984 through 2000: Cherokee, Wagoneer, Comanche; "1. Loose or damaged wire harness connections at distributor, coil or alternator. 2. Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tight and all vacuum hoses connected to the maifold are attached properly and in good condition. 3. Insuffucuent fuel flow."
I'm hoping what you mean by "fire" is a spark to the distributor? Cause if your car is actually producing fireballs under your hood...well...that's a whole nother issue. Spark plugs...change them...then wires. Always remember when looking for a problem regarding ignition/sparks...check the spark plugs first, then the wires, cap, distributor, ignitor box, and finally ignition wiring which is the last thing you would want to be wrong hence the last thing you check ;) All in that order. If you have "coil packs" there will not be a set of wires/distributor/or distributor cap. If this is a " all of a sudden" problem it is probably your duraspark ignition module.
Possibly the crankshaft positioning sensor or Neutral Safety Switch
Vw Bora cuts out after 20 mins and then won't start until cold?
Most common problem is Fuel Pump... when it gets hot of working it stops working... when cools down works again.
Where is the PCV valve on the 2000 2003 Mercury Sable Duratec engine?
It should be under the intake manifold/under the large wiring loom and then under that is a large water hose. It's under there. Takes around 3-4 hours to replace. Nice design on those tune up parts Ford... BTW, while you're under there you might as well also replace the back 3 sparkplugs. On my 2001 Ford Taurus SEL, 24 valve, DOHC engine, the pcv valve is located not where you think it would be. The best way to tell you how to locate it is to follow one of the largest hoses (it's not big...probably 3/4 i.d.) coming out of the throttle body and follow that down to where it mates up to the pcv valve. To help locate the hose, it will be underneath the throttle body and will have a grey hose clamp. The hose will also form an "L". It also turns to a plastic hose too, if that helps. So... rubber "L" hose to plastic hose back to rubber fitting, then the pcv valve. Another description...The pcv valve is on the driver's side of the car, in the top-middle of the engine under a wiring harness and close to the fuel rail. Naturally, Ford put this next to a lower radiator hose entering the engine block too. In all, it's in the worst spot ever for a pcv valve, if you ask me. I hope the engineers saw a good reason for this, because this is definitely not an easy one to access like 95% of all vehicles (usually on top of the valve covers of most cars and you can change in like, 2 minutes at most). To access this, you really need to remove the whole plastic intake and throttle body. Maybe a professional mechanic could do it without doing this, but I'd have to see it to believe it. One more thing I forgot to add. The pcv valve for this is made by Motorcraft (part number EV-243 or part number EV-268) EV-268 has a metal hose wrapped around the part. I was told that on some Ford minivans, the metal tube is for coolant to run through.... I guess to keep the valve cool. Anyway, you won't need this for your Taurus. Simply bend it slightly and pull it off. The valve, you'll notice, has square-like sides. This is to allow you to put a pair of pliers on it to remove the old and insert the new. The part has to be turned about a quarter turn counter-clockwise to remove and the opposite to install. You'll also see that it has a rubber o-ring on it to seal it in the block. You won't be able to reach it well with just your fingers, unless you were to remove the wiring harness and fuel rail. So... simply use a pair of pliers to reach under the wiring harness and grasp the square-sides of the valve and twist it counter-clockwise to remove. I didn't need much pressure at all to remove it, although I read online where one guy's cracked when he did it. He claimed it was in there so long that the piece was seized in the opening. Mine simply twisted out and I twisted the new back in. It is below the egr valve close to the intake manifold below the intake air sensor, there is a tube running to it from the engine to recirculate exhaust air with fresh air, there is a clamp holding it to the air intake that you need pliers to remove, then you need to turn counter-clockwise 90 degrees to remove, do the reverse to install. to make it easier to access remove the upper intake. The pcv valve is not visible, however, you can identify it by the 3" inch rubber hose that connects to the steel line running into the bottom of the intake. I have the part and am going to replace it soon, although Ford really makes it difficult to remove it - I have a Ford Taurus 2000 with DOHC engine
Is there a fuse for the power steering on a 1999 vw polo?
Not unless it has electric steering. If it is manual with a pump there is no fuse.
How do i determine if my ignition key has a chip?
take the key to orchard supply.They have a free scanner for this if there is no chip they will make duplicates.
If the alternator was faulty then the old alternator will not have been charging the battery properly. Charge the battery using a battery charger (one that plugs into the mains) or get a jump start form another car and once you are going run the car for a time to recharge the battery.
Problem starting car why will it start in neutral sometimes and not start at all other times?
is it an automatic transmission? if not does it have a engine start button? in both cases mentioned the vehicle will have a solenoid in the gear shift lever or gearbox that prevents the vehicle being started in gear!
Where is the starter located on a 92 Chevy Caprice?
its on the passengerside just below the engine behind the exhaust. kinda hard to get too.
Why would flames come out of your carburetor when trying to start your engine?
Sounds to me that your vehicle is off time. Check the timing on it. If the timing is off it will backfire through the carb and also if it is cross wired (firing order wrong) it will backfire through the carb.
bad ignition, bad battery, bad starter, need more info in the question
How do you reset the computer on a 1997 Pontiac Grand AM because car won't start?
Hello, Jamison here,
Resetting ECM will not make car start,,,,,,,,, You need to have it scanned, Or ask other questions,,,, Give details like,,,,,,,,,,,,When was last time it ran,,,what was last action of car,,,have you checked/changed anything yet,,,,,,,,, good luck, jamison.
What does it mean when your engine clicks when you try to start it?
It could very well mean your battery is dead. A good suggestion is to try another battery which is known to be good and/or carefully try to jumpstart the vehicle with jumper cables and another battery.
I replaced the starter on a 2000 windstar with a 3.8L engine now the car won't start?
Does it turn over?
Could be a bad starter solenoid
Could be a bad starter
Check wiring
My vehicle doesn't start but i have power for lights and radio could this be my starter?
if the car does a click like it is going to turn OS but wont then yes it is the starter
How do you know if your car starter is going bad?
It will give a heavy dashing sound
Another Answer:Well, actually...Often a starter gives no warning, but when it does, below are a few possibilities.
- The solenoid does not engage. You may hear the starter "click", but if the contact has failed, the starter may not operate.
- It may operate more slowly, even though you've tested the battery and know that it is functioning properly.
- It may become intermittent, with the starter occasionally spinning freely and not engaging the engine.
Unfortunately, some of the indications of a failing starter are also the indication of a failing battery. Have the battery and charging system tested at a local auto parts retailer that provides that service. OReilly and Auto Zone will both test your battery and charging system, without removing anything from the vehicle, for free, provided that they aren't overly busy, and can afford the luxury of sending an associate out to your car.
Were is the fuel pump relay on a 95 s10?
In the glove compartment behind the access door marked "relays". The fuel pump relay would be the first one on the left.
What batteries contain Mercury?
Originally mercury was amalgamated with the zinc in carbon-zinc dry cell batteries because the zinc was contaminated with tiny iron granules. As the zinc corroded away in the electrochemical process of the battery producing electric current these iron granules would surface and become exposed to the electrolyte producing local shorted iron-zinc "batteries" that would cause the zinc to rapidly corrode through and the battery to leak electrolyte out its side through these holes. The mercury added to the zinc would envelope these iron granules, preventing them from contacting the electrolyte and thus greatly extending battery life.
When alkaline dry cell batteries replaced the original acid carbon-zinc dry cell batteries, as they were still using carbon and zinc electrodes mercury was still amalgamated with the zinc to extend battery life as the zinc was still contaminated with tiny iron granules.
However when it became a priority for dry cell companies to eliminate toxic materials like mercury from their batteries, the solution was to use more expensive high purity zinc with lower iron contamination levels so that less mercury would be needed. As the goal is to eventually completely eliminate all of the mercury, it will eventually be necessary for them to use zinc that is completely iron free.
An entirely different class of batteries, the mercuric oxide-zinc battery and the mercuric oxide-cadmium battery used mercuric oxide for one of the electrodes. Such batteries offered many advantages over carbon-zinc (both acid and alkaline versions) batteries and were widely used from 1942 until 1992 and were ultimately banned by 1996.
