Car Starting Problems

Try adding more gas i have added gas plus some fuil enjector cleaner it still wont crank

If you mean "turning over", there could be a thousand reasons but I would check the battery and connections first. Also, there may be a safety switch on the clutch or shifter. Some are even actuated by having to have the brake pedal depressed when starting.

Could be many things. Mostly id check the coils first as they are what cause spark.

where is safety switch located and can it be bypassed?

Your battery cable(s) may be loose or dirty and not making good contact. You may need a new regulator.

They can last the life of the car or can fail at any time. There is no real average.

A typical car engine will be oil-starved and it will be destroyed by friction. The oil pump will not be able to pump oil to the engine unless the engine is designed with a dry sump like you'd find in racing cars and aerobatic airplanes.

If the valve stem seals are bad the intake valves will "suck" oil into the cylinders. One common indicator of worn valve stem seals is to take your foot off the accelerator for several seconds when going downhill, then watch for smoke when you step on the accelerator again. If you see a puff of BLUISH smoke, you probably have bad valve stem seals. The catalytic converter can become oil fouled so that would be another indicator that you might have valve stem seal problems.

That's insufficient information.

In general, "crank over" means that the starter is not turning the engine when you put the keyswitch to the "start" position.

The starter can fail to engage because of a failed starter, solenoid, keyswitch, neutral lockout switch, faulty battery, failed alternator or just about anything that would drain the battery.

Check the charge on your alternater.

crank sensor on the front of the engine has gone out

check the coils .they might be bad I'd try plugs/wires and fuel filter first. If it backfires when revved up while running rough, probably a spark problem, plugs, wires, or coils. But could also be a fuel problem (filter or water in gas).

This is from experience. There is a rubber "S" shaped vacuum tube about 8 inches long under the intake manifold close to the firewall. It cracks over time and causes a vacuum leak that will drive you crazy, (rough idle, dies at lights, runs perfect above idle). Most mechanics seem to miss that one somehow. Very difficult to replace. Need very small hands. 4MRMIKE

air flow is bad or t.p.s is bad check spark, check fuel

Me thinks you've got things backwards. If it runs when you think it's 180 out, I suggest it's actually where it's supposed to be and you just don't know it. ie: it cannot run if it's backwards (180 out) so it must be right. the timing must be done with the no 1 piston at top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke (assuming you did not disturb the cam timing )and the rotor pointing to no1 cyl spark outlet on distributor cap

Please make sure the battery is fully charged before doing this test! Also make sure all the connections on the starter, battery and cable ends are tight and clean! this is important!!

This won't be fun to test but it will tell you if the starter is good or not. Crawl under the car. (Make sure you use the proper jacks and jack stands!) find the end of the starter (not the end that is attached to the bell housing) and find the solenoid switch. it should have 3 bolts on it. Two large ones and a small one. The top large wire should be the positive battery cable, the bottom large wire should go into the starter and the small wire should be from the ignition switch. Take a wire and hold it to the top large wire on the solenoid. (be careful of the other end of that wire when you have it connected to the top large wire of the solenoid! don't ground this wire. it will turn out badly. don't ask me how I know this is true!) take the other end of the wire and touch it to the small bolt on the solenoid end. If the starter is working, the solenoid should engage and the starter will turn. If this happens it is most likely the ignition switch. If the starter doesn't turn, the starter could be bad.

If "everything" is working that means you are still getting power but if it won't turn over you should check your starter it would have something to do with it not getting a spark.

your crank sensor has absolutly nothing to do with the ability of the engine turning over. I would look at the wiring to the starter.

No fuse but large 80 AMp in plastic holder on lefthandside of bulkhead underneath the rainsplash next to wiper motor. Wiring loom comes out of car bulkhead above accelerator pedal and part goes through this plastic box 7"x1.5" x2" Fuse is inside. But I think everything would stop if this was blown not sure though, more likely to be small broken wire to starter solenoid, might be the plug that connects this wire from the solenoid to the wiring loom. goes along the back of the engine to the RHS of the engine and is one of two plugs clipped to the engine block above the gearbox May have come undone/ poor connection?

the battery may not have enough energy to turn on the lights. an is the engine turning over completely at the rate that it should be or is it struggling to turn? also check all of your fuses

Fuel filter could be clogged, try fuel injection cleaner if it runs better then it is a clogged fuel filter. Keep in mind you might have to pump the gas pedal to keep it running.

it could me bad fuel ..or fuel pump

It needs to be in park or neutral to start. All cars have a "safety" switch which prevents starting in gear.

check the vats on your key and the ignition switch. anti theft devise goes the security light comes on in the dash