Car Starting Problems

The firing order for a 1991 Chevy S-10 4.3L V6 is: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Also FYI, cylinder #1 is on the LEFT-FRONT, and the distributor rotation is CLOCKWISE. Ignition timing: TDC. Spark plug gap is .035"

Bang it witha hammer but not enough to dent but enough to "jiggle" it

First change the fuel filter. Check the cat convertor.

Is the temp gauge showing the engine running hot? Could be a water pump prob if so.

second the first answer probably a clog in your exhaust,if not my camaro did something similar it was mass airflow sensor,but if that was the case it would register with computer.

You know the starter is going bad when you have a dragging starter.

Answer: Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose. Your no start problem may be your fuel pump. Try to check it for pressure during the not start problem. Also, check for spark at the spark plugs. From what you described, your problem could be the coil module, the cam angle sensor or the crank angle sensor.

The heater will stop getting hot when you're low on coolant. If the coolant is low enough the engine will overheat and it will be severely damaged.

Before you even get into the car check the path in the direction you will first travel ie: reversing. Now that you know that you vehicle is clear from obstruction you need to unlock the car (if it is locked) then.................. Man come on this is a bit of a what do you eat for dinna sorta question the real answer to your question is get a licence! the rest you will pick up along the way.

Battery or starter. check your battery cables -especially your ground- if they're bad, no juice. I have a 1987 300zx that is having this same problem. Someone suggested that it might have something to do with a switch in the clutch that will prevent it from starting without the clutch pushed in, so is it possible that the switch might be faulty? Is there a way to check or bypass it to rule that out before spending the cash to get a mechanic to replace the starter? There could be air in the gas lines. Bleed the gas lines out. Here's an even easier one: Open up and re-close the rear hatch. If the car senses that the rear hatch is "adjar", you'll get exactly that symptom (it happened to me!) :-) the same thing happened to me with my car you might wanna replace the ECU because if your not getting any noise then your ECU is not sending a signal to the engine

probably your ECM malfunctioning i just fixed the same problem on an sl1...it was a new starter... the starter over heats and is non op... or try a coolant temp sensor with new connector is a common problem aswell

battery under passenger carpet i think

its located under the glove box its the 2nd relay grey

Could be as simple as needing a tuneup with a new set of spark plugs.

i had the problem with my 97 f150, the power wire to the computer had melted on the manifold and had to be replaced, check the wire to see if its grounding out

First disconnect your battery since you're working on an electrical component. Then locate your starter. The easiest way to do this is to buy a new one and look for something under your car that looks just like it. Most of the time the starter is on the passenger side of the engine and most likely on the rear half of the engine close to the transmission housing bell. Make a diagram, if it helps, or just remember what wires go where on the terminals of the starter solenoid. Then, there are probably three or four bolts that connect the starter to the car. Unscrew these and pull out the old starter and put the new one in and bolt it back on. Connect your wires how they were on the other one and reconnect your battery and you're ready to go! Make sure the wires are connected properly or it could fry the new starter!

Sounds like the black box at the top of the radiator.

i had this problem on my 84 Chevy truck. the wire harness burnt up. so i went and got one from the junkyard. but from and older truck. the wire from the starter to the fuse box has resistance and when you activate the starter the voltage will drop to 8 volts which is to low for a HEI distributor. i installed a relay form the battery to the distributor and used the 8 volt line to activate the relay.

Make sure that the shift lever is fully in park. Make sure it is the right key... Key or ignition barrel may be worn out. Try pushing the shift lever up and turn the key. For a floor shifter try pressing the brake pedal, push the shifter handel forward while trying to turn the key. You may not believe this now, but I've used this trick on a minivan as well as a standard key-driven padlock...take a large firm object, such as a 2x4 or a large rock, and smack the end of the key directly into (towards) the steering column as you would a nail that you were driving into a board. This will often align the tumblers in the ingnition switch and allow the teeth in the key to find their home and allow the key to turn. Otherwise, the tumblers are misaligned and no not recognize the key you are using. This will impress even the most skeptical of auto-philes.

under driver side dash, to the left of the stearing wheel, 3 relays middle one. behind panel under wheel , not at the fuse box look up

you also have to make sure distributor is intalled correctly to match the timing

Look at the rear lower section of engine
Follow the + battery cable

Your question is confusing. Clarify.

Check for good fuel pressure on the Wrangler. Seven months of sitting could cause fuel to gel in the filter or pump.

You need to charge your battery/boost your car. Turn off the car lights and then do one of the following: 1) Call a service truck to give you a boost. 2) Find a friend with some booster cables and give it a boost. 3) Hook the battery up to a charger and let it charge for a while, and then start it up. Directions for #2 should be in the car's instruction manual.

Time when trying to start the car engine trns butwill not start turn key off then onagain it starts right up

Change your fuel filter. Also make sure you didn't trip the fuel cut-off switch. Happened to me.