Chevy Impala

The 2003 Chevrolet Impala has a 4-speed automatic.

This light is a warning generally that your oil is getting low. Your car will still run, but checking the oil as soon as possible is necessary to prevent potential engine damage. If the oil is low just add the required amount and the indicator should go away.

According to the owner's manual, the auxiliary power drop on a 2003 Chevrolet Impala is located under the passenger side dashboard. It also says to refer to the Service Manual for information on how to access the auxiliary power drop cords. I'm trying to get around actually having to order the manual. We'll see how that goes.

Check the coolant system to make sure you have enough antifreeze. Also is your thermostat working?

this is cracking me up....i never googled my car until now....i have had so many problems since i bought this car new, and every problem i have had it seems a ton of other people have had.

the horns are located right behind the passenger side headlight...the whole front headlight and all basically have to be removed in order to fix it. i just had to have it done a couple weeks ago.

You may have a bad wheel speed sensor (inside bearing assembly) or poor connection at plug connector to sensor. Replacement harness is available. When traction / abs lights are on have trouble codes checked at autozone or advanced auto to see what wheel it is.

Base models: P225/60R16; Impala SS: P235/55R17.....

Fill the master cylinder to the top.

A large radiator type clamp that unscrews to take it loose so the rubber intake hose can be taken off.

You need to go to a shop that has a scanner and they can retrieve the codes and diagnose the problem for you.

You will need a volt meter to adjust the sensor and a lab scope to determine if you have a glitch in the sensor.

you have 4 oxygen(O2) sensors on your truck 2 before the catalytic converters and 2 after. if your asking based on a DTC heres the order: bank 1, sensor 1 = driver side before cat bank 1, sensor 2 = driver side after cat bank 2, sensor 1 = passenger side before cat bank 2, sensor 2 = passenger side after cat

No . Cavalier's bolt pattern is 5X100 & Impala's bolt pattern is 5X115 . Close but no cigar.

There is a large bolt head in the center of the crankshaft pulley, if you can get a socket and rachet to fit on bolt( some cars don't allow alot of play room ), try to turn rachet in both directions. If the engine doesn't turn either way, chances are it is locked up and needs rebuilt or replaced.

Remove wheel. Using 15mm socket and ratchet handle, remove bolts on Caliper. Open cap on brake fluid reservoir. Carefully push piston back into caliper to clear worn pads, then remove. Do NOT let caliper hang or dangle. Using one of old pads, push piston fully into caliper with clamp. Pads slide in and out. Inspect rotor for scoring or other wear. Reverse to assemble. Clean as you go.

Take the car to a shop that does brakes. These newer cars are a lot trickier than those of the bygone era, and it is too easy to get yourself into expensive trouble.

First go on eBay and look for a window switch. I found one for about half of the price the dealer wanted. You will need a star shaped screwdriver adapter of some sort and just take two of them out inside the door handle where you grab the door to shut it. Once you get it out, just unclip the wiring clip and attach it to the new switch and put back in door.

NO DONT BUY A NEW 1 .... try this first it worked for me.. i took apart the switch panel and was gonna put the back window switch in the drivers side but i carefully took the WHOLE switch apart down to nothing. Then i bent back the contacts so they were usable again and WALLA it works great and has ben for over 3 years knock on wood

Head Gasket failure or intake gasket Dexcool is the culprit, had to replace mine.

You would need to change the whole Speedometer and you also need to replace the gear in the transmission as while since 1 mile = 1.609 344 kilometers. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
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Most certainly, with low coolant level you will have poor circulation so the heater core wont get adequite flow and decreased ability to remove heat from the cooling system for the engine.

Did you check the oil level? I would say NO it is NOT safe to drive. Unless the oil light and warning system is malfunctioning. Oil is the lifeblood of you rengine. Without oil the engine will seize up and you are lookign at major repair costs. If the engine has enough oil yet does not have enough oil pressure to push the oil thru the engine passages it needs to, then you will once again suffer severe engine damage. Check the oil level first and then see if the oil ight goes out. If the oil level is fine and the light still stays on, then I would say your oil pump is probably gone and to drive it then is asking for more trouble. The warnign system being wrong is the last thing I would think it is........but it is possible. I had a similar situation. The light would come on and make a noise, but the oil level was okay when I stopped to check it. The light would then go off and on again intermittently. I brought it to my mechanic who found nothing wrong with the car (did this a few times). Eventually, it became worse (took a few months). When my mechanic took the oil pan off, he found lots of bits of silicone at the bottom of the pan which were getting into the oil pump inlet and causing low pressure readings to trigger the alarm. Luckily, he found it before the oil pump was damaged. He told me that the mechanic who performed an earlier job where I had the oil pan removed, was not careful in the sealant bead and left a considerable amount of excess in the oil pain which eventually degraded and fell into the bottom of the oil pan.

First, tell that freeloading liberal back seat driver to get out find his own ride!

Then if you still hear the noise, try to observe the following,

Do you feel any vibration or shuttering and the same time you hear the groan? Does the R/R side drop or dip when turning?

If not a simple but COMPLETE chasis lube should take care of it

If so you may have a binding suspension part caused by physical damage from a pothole or such. The offending part could be anything from a bad bushing to a slightly bent shock absorber (Damper) shaft

But in any case, have it checked out by a SUSPENSION pro, not just a greese monkey (like me).

Good luck, you picked a very nice car!

they are both located behind the front right corner of the bumper. there is the purge valve, vent solenoid, and charcoal canister all next to each other.

just drill a hole the right size in the right place. go down to your local napa store and buy a rubber grommet to fit in the hole. the grommet will keep the wires from chafing. before you drill make sure you look at both sides of the firewall to avoid hitting something you shouldn't hit.

your car does not have a choke like in the old days. THE COMPUTER SETS THE AIR TO FUEL TO START THE ENGINE.

SAE 5W-30 is the preferred.