CV Joints

The 2004 Ford scape can in two optional engines between a 2.0L 4-cylinder and 3.0 V6. The constant velocity (CV) 1/2 shafts are different part numbers and prices for each. The wholesale price of these shafts runs from a low quality piece for around 41$ to Ford Motorcraft factory replacements from 180-330$ each. Labor to do each side should be no hour. The final price will include labor and parts. Labor rate per can only be determined by contacting the individual shop and asking their estimated labor or book time for this vehicle.

50$ if you do it your self which isn't to hard baring you have the right tools. mostly a 36mm socket to remove cv nut, free at autozone. good luckk

Try going to a parts store and reading that section of the Hayne's or Chilton's manual.

Your CV joints could be going bad. Check to see if your CV boots are cut or opened to the elements. If so, your joints may need to be replaced. Before your spend money have a mechanic verify your complaint.

Signs of a faulty CV joint are CLICKS coming from the front of the vehicle while performing sharp turns. To really put this to the test, you should drive backwards in tight circles, if you hear any clicking you have a bad CV somewhere you should be able to tell which side of the car it is coming from. Try not to drive very far on a bad CV joint, because you could become stuck out in the middle of nowhere!

no

A double wishbone suspension is an automobile independent suspension design using two parallel wishbone-shaped arms to locate the wheel. Each wishbone (or arm) has two mounting positions to the chassis and one at the wheel hub. The shock absorber and coil spring mount to the wishbones to control vertical movement.

Get a Haynes or Subaru Factory Shop Manual for your car, and read up on this procedure. In general, loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn, loosen big axle bolt approx 1/2 turn, raise car, support on jackstands, remove wheel, pound out drift pin using a punch on the transmission end, remove lower ball joint from wheel hub casting, watch brake and ABS wires as you pull the entire wheel hub and strut assembly away from the car, axle shaft comes out of hub, other end of axle shaft comes out of transmission. Big problem area is if axle shaft hangs up on the hub splines-- you may need a puller for this. Be careful if you hammer the axle shaft out of the hub-- not only damaging the axle shaft for a core return, but you also may damage the wheel bearings inside the hub-- I have a 300 dollar receipt as testimony to this. Install is reverse of removal, reassemble with care, remember the roll pin on the inner CV spline, then do a final tighten on the big axle nut once the wheel is on the ground.

Curriculum vitae.A résumé :A brief account of your personal details when applying for a job.

you can get the cv boot kit that you can glue the join on rather than taking the drive shaft off

Consider replacing the axle with a rebuilt unit. When the boot is torn, contaminants enter the joint and quickly destroy it. It is very labor intensive to replace the boot vs an axle which is a do-it-yourself job. In my shop we used to replace boots but because of high incident of joint failure customers were understandably upset. The boot has a life and so does the joint; once the boot tears ,the joint is not far behind. Why do the job twice?

Keeps grease in, dirt and water out.

Many things need to be checked, 1st is the wheel bent or wobbling? 2nd check alignment and worn parts associated with, all tie rod ends+ball joints, then all control arm bushings. 3rd front strutts can be bent causing undue alignment problems .

To change the CV Joint, remove the tire, then remove the brake assembly. Next remove the nut that hold the bottom A frame, now with a pry bar, force the bottom A frame and don't worry about the shock absorber slaming down, it won't go down any further than it already is. Now you can slide the CV Joint out and you won't loose any oil because it's on a spline. After replacing the CV Joint put everything back togethere but don't over tighten the axle nut. 150 Lbs is about right. Hope this help you out.

The above sounds good, but your better off just replacing the whole half shaft. Follow the above but use a reman half shaft.

Drop the pan. That usually requires that you lift the engine off the motor mounts a few inches. However, low oil pressure usually doesn't mean a bad oil pump. Typically, low oil pressure means that the engine main and rod bearings are worn. Engine rod and main bearings do not ever touch the crankshaft; they ride on a film of pressurized oil. When the bearings wear, the oil pump is no longer able to generate enough oil volume to keep the pressure up. One way to determine if it's oil pump or bearings, change to a heavier grade oil (higher viscosity number) and see if the oil pressure stays up after the engine warms up.

1-2 hours for labor + parts + alignment (not always needed but recommended after such repair).

pull the drive line, pop the caps off the u-joint, and drive the u-joint out of the drive-line and install the new one.

no, just replace the side thats bad.

the most common symptom is a clicking noise when making sharp turns, you can take a quick look and see if there are signs of any of the boots leaking, if you catch it right away the joint can be saved

cv ball joint entire sealed part approx cost $20-25 and labor 2-3 hrs at non-dealer shop varies from $35 to $75 per hour so call ahead to get a shop's labor rate BEFORE you hand car over to them....

It is cheaper to replace the CV shaft than it is to replace the boot. If the boot has been torn for any length of time it will have collected dirt and water. That in itself spells disaster.

Are you sure you mean the 'A-Frame', or do you mean the 'A-Pillar'?

The frame of the car supports the door pillars and the roof. It supports the roof on two or three pillars depending on whether the car is a two door or a four door.

Immediately after the hood (bonnet), the A-Pillar supports the hinges for the front doors and the windshield (windscreen). The B-Pillar supports the pin that secures the front door locks and the hinges for the rear doors (if fitted). The C-Pillar supports the pin that secures the the rear door locks (if fitted) and the rear window. Each pillar is identified by the side on which it is found (driver side / passenger side) and the the pillar location: ex. Driver's A-Pillar or Passenger B-Pillar.

It Runs From 50_100

Parts will cost about $100-$150 US and labor will be another 100-150 US.

Eric