CV Joints

if i remember right, they are riveted on. grind the heads off or use an air hammer with a chisel in it. if this doesn't give you a good idea, please don't do the repair yourself, lives are at risk.

I would recommend replacing the entire cv axle as one unit. They are reasonably priced around $80 to $100 for each axle. Basically you remove the nut from the axle, then undo the front brake assembly, and unbolt the front suspension from the ball joint. you can now press out the axle from the bearing on the knuckle and then press out the axle from the transmission. You may find that some fluid will leak out of the transmission when you remove the axle. I try to jack up the car on one side higher than the other to keep the fluid loss to a minimum. Then put everything back (axle,knuckle,balljoint,nut,brakes) and you are good to.

I just changed both axles on my 99 Altima, GXE yesterday. First you remove the wheels and the axle nuts from both wheels. Next you remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the A arm to the strut. Next you may have to remove the caliper from the hub, but I didnt have to. Slide the hub assembly around out of the way the axle will pull out of the wheel hub, once you have the axle out of the wheel hub on the drivers side give it a couple of good tugs, the axle should slide out into your hand and the drivers side is done. The passenger side on the other hand has a slip yoke in the center of the axle you remove the 3 bolts from that, give it a couple of tugs and its out and your ready to reverse everything and put it all back together.

Most worn out suspension components especially balljoints can cause shaking and inconsistent vehicle behaviour especially when driving on uneven surfaces.

It is also risky to drive a vehicle on long distance trips if the balljoint is worn out.

I'd start with the disk brake rotors. If one or both is warped it could cause the problem you describe.

If when turning you hear a clicking sound then it is likely a CV joint problem

apply parking brakes jack front end of car up and put on jack stands remove tires remove brakes and rotor remove spindle by taking of twwo bolts and nuts pull spindle forward take off cv bot clamps and cv shaft will slide out

after you remove the axle nut in the middle (a 32mm socket) if the cv axle doesn't come right out, then you need to spray it with wd 40 or liquid wrench...etc. you then need to rent a large jaw pulley. ask your local auto parts house( autozone, advance auto) , they will know what you are talking about. there are spline groves that have probably rusted together. take off the rotor and attach the puller to the middle of the cv axle rod sticking through. turn the pulley until it breaks free. it will probably be stubborn so you may need a cheater bar on the end of your rachet. hope this helps.

At first, just a leak in the boot indicates that problems are headed your way. If ANY grit gets inside, like when it's wet, that starts the CV joint to wear. As the problem progresses you'll notice clicking and popping sounds when you're moving, especially as you turn the wheel. It will definitely get worse when you turn the wheel, and you may not even notice it when going straight. Once it starts making noise, you don't have a lot of time before it either locks up or the vehicle will act like it's in neutral.

As far as the 6th generation celica 94-98 it's pretty strait forward. First of all I would recommend just purchasing new or remanufactured CV axle assemblies. By the time you replace just the joints, it takes about 4 hours longer and costs about $20 less than new axles themselves.

1. Untorque the axle nut with the vehicle on the ground. It is going to be tight as hell. I belive its a 30mm socket but I'm not positive. You will need a breaker bar with a cheater bar possibly. Obviously you will need to remove the cotter pin and nut cover first.

2. Untorque the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground.

3. Jack the vechicle up and support with jack stands.

4. Remove wheels.

5. Remove brake caliper, pads, and mounting bracket. Support caliper with bungee cord or wire, don't let it just hang by the hose.

6. Remove axle nut.

7. Remove to bolt holding the steering knuckle onto the strut. (shock and spring assy.)

8. You should be able to finagle the strut end out of the steering knuckle without removal of any more components. If the end is stuck in the knuckle, tap with a hammer lightly. If you are going to reuse the axle this method is not recommended and a puller will be needed.

9. Once you have that end of the axle free don't pull on it to get it out of the transmission, all that will happen is you will separate the inner joint and rip the boot off. You need to get under the car with a pry bar and try to pop the axle out of the transmission. This can be kind of a pain as there is a circlip inside the transmission that holds the shaft in place. It took me getting really angry to finally get them out. Think of something that makes you really pissed...

10. Reassy is the opposite of disassy. You will probably need an alignment when you are all finished. Make sure to use the proper torque on the strut bolts, the axle nut, and the lugs. Good Luck...

When the CV joints start to leak grease or make snapping and cracking noises.

If the Ford F-150 is a 4X4 , yes , it has constant velocity joints on the front

axle shafts

No, it is on the axle of front wheel drive vehicles and some rear wheel drive vehicles (if they have independent rear suspension).

take it to the shop and fix it

The control arm has to be replaced . for a 1995 sentra it costs 172$ at the dealer and on the web it available for 100$ each .

Are you certain it's your new cv joint? If it is; did you pack it with grease and put on the boot? Did you follow all the torque specs with the instructions? If you are certain you did the correct procedures while installing it you may have a defective part.

NOTE: replacing the whole axle is a heck of a lot easier and cleaner! Not a lot more expensive, either. Most garages do it this way, as labor is more costly than the parts. Around $100 more than buying just the outer joints, but I wish I'd spent that extra money!

tools - impact gun, breaker bar, BIG socket for center nut, hammer, the usual sockets + wrenches..

1. Remove the axle - there are 6 small bolts (9/16) holding it on the inside, the one large center nut in the middle of the hub on the outside. This one will be very hard to do, you will need a large bar, and loosen it BEFORE you jack up the car. If the car is already up, you can have someone step on the brakes.

2. Remove the 2 big (7/8) bolts attaching the strut and one end of the sway bar connector. It is possible, with some finagling to get the axle out without removing the brakes

3. Remove the old CV joint - this is the part that I got stuck on. Brought it to the garage, and he had it off in a trice, nothing more than a hammer and a vise. Here's the trick! Put the axle in a vise at about a 45' angle, outer end down, with end of outer shaft straight down, this will expose the inner race. Give the inner race a good whack on the exposed edge. The key is where you hit it, not how hard. Before my mechanic showed me this I was whaling on it with a 15lb sledge, and he popped it with a small ball peen hammer in two whacks. What you're trying to do is break the snap ring inside, and the whole thing slides right off the axle.

4. Put the new snap ring on the axle, pop on the new joint, grease it up, (use CV grease, follow directions!) get it back in there, and you're in business! No more nasty clunking grinding scary noises!

good luck!

Put car on jack stands. Remove wheels. Unbend the locking edge of the 32 mm hub bolt using a hammer and punch and remove the bolt (175-230 ft lbf Torque if memory serves me). If you don't have a impact wrench you will need to loosen the bolt before you jack the car up. Drain the transmission. Disconnect tie rods and lower ball joint. Use a punch or air hammer to push the shaft out of the hub. Be careful not to damage the oil seal with the splines on the end of the shaft. Use a prybar to remove the left shaft from the transmission. SUPPORT the shaft carefully when you remove it so that you don't damage the seals! Use a prybar and hammer to pop the right shaft loose from the intermediate shaft. Make sure the circlip at the end of the shaft is in good condition (I don't remember the spec). Install new shafts in the reverse order. Fill the transmission with new fluid.

Technically yes you can. However, they are sealed for life and don't need it unless the rubber boot is damaged or disturbed. It does require a complete disassembly of the joint after removing it from the vehicle and it is by far one of the messiest jobs there is. Once you have the entire CV joint/shaft out remove the snap ring holding the boot on the large end. Gently pry the rubber boot off and the joint will come apart easily after that. Be very careful not to lose one of the three rollers. Squirt the proper cv joint grease (it's a special compound) into the area on the rollers and into the cv cup where the rollers will go back in to making sure to get an even amount spread around. Put the roller part back into the cup and attach a new snap ring and reinstall. Good luck.

ive bought and installed a 5-speed man.trans on a 96 probe that came from a mazda 626 now the pass. side cv shaft will not go all the way in

There are several very good resources which give examples of CV types. In the UK, one can visit the Job Center and they have examples on hand. They also have career counselors who can help you tailor make your CV. Online, various employment recruitment sites, for example Reed and Monster offer free examples of what an ideal CV should look like.

If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a remanufactured axle and replace it. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.

First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.

Additional info: Draining the fluid first is not necessary.

You would want to purchase complete axle haftshafts, not just the CV joints. It would be more time consuming and costly to just replace the CV joints. A complete rebuilt haftshaft should cost under $100 each plus labor to R&R.

there's a product you can purchase at most auto parts stores called a split boot. this eliminates the need to remove the cv joint from the vehicle.comes with instructions on how to apply..

I am having the axel changed not one boot...and the mechanic quoted me $150 which includes parts and labor.