CV Joints

You've got to pull the axles. take the big nut off the end of the half axles at the hub/steering knuckle. pull the axle out of the hub. Then take a big BIG prybar and pry the axle out of the transmission. Put a short length of broom handle in the transmission after you pry the axles out to keep the side gears from falling down into the case. You DONT want that.

Hey, The axle should be covered as long as your car has under 60, 00km, if you have an extended warianty then you will have to check with the company because they all have different guidlines. Hey, The axle should be covered as long as your car has under 60, 00km, if you have an extended warianty then you will have to check with the company because they all have different guidlines.

Your rotors are warped. You need new brake pads and the rotors turned at a machine shop or replaced.

Snap, Crackle and Pop.

If the CV boot is torn open, buy a remanufactured halfshaft axle and replace the whole halfshaft (includes the joint). To replace the boot and/or halfshaft axle on some early 90's model Hondas: First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.

Probably be cheaper and easier to do a service exchange. Give your old one in and get a recon one in exchange from your local motor factors. hope this helps

Jack up one front side of the car. Take the wheel off and then undo the 32mm axle nut. It's normally bloody tight on there and needs to be, use a 32mm socket and breaker bar to get it off, you might need to stand on the breaker bar. You can also use a big open ended or ring spanner for this, provided you can get access to the nut (the cowling around the nut makes this difficult). Then take the nut off the bottom of the lower ball joint (it has a split pin, you'll need to get that out first.) The ball joint is the part that attaches the hub to the swingarm, swingarm is the curved bit that attaches the hub to the engine crossmember. With either a really big lever (5ft long metal bar with a flat end works good) or a ball joint separator, separate the the swingarm from the hub. A crowcar can be used for this by placing it between the top of the swingarm and the bolt housing on the back of the hub. You should be able to pull the suspension with the hub away from the swingarm towards the front of the car now, although you may need to unbolt the sway bar if you haven't already. Be careful not to stretch a brake line too far. As you pull it away, pull the axle out of the hub. It is splined and usually very difficult to remove, often requiring the use of a hammer to disconnect. If you are not replacing the entire cv joint (just the boots) then be careful not to burr the thread or you will not be able to put the axle nut back on later.

Now there is a pin in the inner CV cup that holds the cup to the gearbox (If you can't see the pin then you will have to turn the axle while the car is out of gear). You will need a punch tool the right size to fit in the hole in the cup for this. I use a screw driver with the head cut off for this, don't use a normal flat or Philip head screw driver to bash this pin out it's a bad idea. Hammer the pin until it falls out the other side. Now that you have the shaft out of the hub and the pin out of the cup, pull on the shaft really hard and it should pop off the gearbox. It may be jammed, and tapping on the part of the shaft between the transmission and inner boot whilst pulling will make removal easier. What might happen is you might pull the inner CV apart which will stretch the boot, so watch out for this. The only thing holding the race in the cup (the race is the bit with the balls on it that goes on the end of the shaft to hold it in the cup making up the Constant Velocity joint) is a circlip running around the outer edge of the cup, this sometimes pulls out. In which case can make it very hard to remove the cup from the gearbox. You might be able to lever it off with something, pretty much make it up as you go along using logic. This circlip isn't strictly necessary seeing as the cv joint is held in by the ball joint on the swingarm, thus mechanics will often neglect replacing it when they reinstall a cv joint.

Hopefully you will have the drive shaft out in one piece by now. To put it all back together (without doing the RWD conversion) do the reverse of what has been said taking note to these few things. Make sure the pin in the inner CV cup is tight and wont fall out, sometimes getting a new one is the best option here. Make sure you replace all the split pins on all the nuts that had them (lower ball joint nut and axle nut.) Replacing these with new ones is a good idea again.

If you just want to replace a boot on the shaft follow these steps.

Unclip the boot from the inner cup and pull it back along the shaft towards the outer CV. Pull the ring out that holds the race into the cup. Be careful not to bend this ring as it does stop the joint from pulling apart when in the car. Now pull the cup off the shaft. Remove the split ring on the end of the shaft that holds the race onto the shaft. Now pull the race off taking note which way round the race was put on the shaft . Now you should be able to pull both boots off and replace which ever one you want.

For replacing the whole shaft, well that's just simple, just get a new one and put it in the place of the old one :-P

If your inner CV is damaged, i.e. making clicking noises, you can just replace the race, and maybe the inner cup to fix this which will cost a fraction of the price of a new driveshaft.

Also remember to re-grease everything in the joints with Moly grease, or also known as molybdenum disulfide grease.

A local shop quoted my brothers 2000 Grand Prix GTP CV Joint replacement at 700 Canadian dollars.

The shaft should have a clip on it and you just have to give it a quick yank to pull it out of the CV joint then you can slip the boot on.

i have a 2008 Nissan altima and my cv joints are going bad already is this right

first with the car on the ground loosen the axle nut with a 32 or 34 mm axle nut socket ( abt 15.00 at kragens this is a special deep socket it comes in handy ) then you jack the car up on the specific side and remove wheel then take brake hub off then take off the axel nut all the way then put a pan under the axle ( the end that goes in to transmission because fluid will spill ) then dont yank but gently pry and pull the axle out ( it has to go through the horseshoe bottom of strut youll see ) then reverse all steps to install new cv axle be careful not to be to hasty take your time and when axle nut is back on torque it down

I found a company called the c.v. man (thecvman@verizon.net). he has split boot kits for nearly every application, including infinities. I contacted him via e-mail and just placed my order over the phone today 1-800-338-2326. They told me that lube was also included in the kit. Hope this helps.

You might be in time to save your constant velocity joints by replacing the boots. Chances are that if the boots are torn, the damage is done. You will need to replace your half-shaft very soon.

Remove wheel and brake caliper, remove caliper frame and ABS cable.Separate tie rod end and ball joint from steering knuckle. Remove hub nut and pull knuckle away from outer cv joint. Insert a thin pry bar between cv inner and transaxle case and jerk it to loosen cv joint. Re-install in reverse order.

Follow the below steps to replace the CV Joints on Honda Accord:

1) Raise the vehicle up with a car jack and place a jack stand under the vehicle frame. Lower the car jack so that the vehicle is sitting on the jack stand. Do not place the jack stand under the axle, since you will need that axle to be free to work on.

2) Remove the tire and take the nut off of the axle at the hub with a socket wrench, then remove the ball joint nut from the bottom of the joint and move the spindle hub out of the way.

3) Slide the trans-axle out off the transmission by pulling it straight out. The trans-axle will come right out without having to remove any pins or bolts once the spindle is out of the way.

4) Slide the new trans-axle into the transmission and thread the end of the trans-axle into the spindle hub. Reattach the nuts to the top and bottom of the ball joint to secure the hub, then place the tire back on the Accord using a tire tool.

5) Lift the car with the car jack and remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the car jack.

The previous answer is not correct.

There is a ring but it is not accessable. You just jerk on the axel to remove it.

This is usually nearly impossible.

I have used small wedges between the tranny housing and the axel but don't really reccomend this as damage may occur.

The book says something like a sharp jerk as with a dent puller but if the end is dry and or corroded this is not easy. Lots of penetrating oil will help.

Like I said, there is a ring also but it is of the expansion type and is supposed to keep the axel in but can be pulled out. A stick in the woods did just that on mine.

There should be a retainer ring that you can spread apart. Then just tap the housing with a mallett and it should start to come off.

would like to know how to remove inner splin in housing

yes it can break, but the wheel should stay on because of the steering components, the shaft may flail about and wreak havoc and make a lot of noise.

A clunking sound when you accelerate or decelerate.

CV joint is a Constant Velocity Joint in all FWD cars and most 4WD cars. A cv joint makes your FWD car drive and turn without losing velocity.

First if you have steel wheels you can remove or loosen the center nut (cv axle nut) before jacking up the vehicle, starting by jacking up your Hyundai and properly supporting it. Take off the tire, for the side that your replacing, take out the cotter key on the lower ball joint, remove the lower ball joint nut (sometimes the nut won't come off completely until you break the ball joint loose from the knuckle), use a ball joint separator (fork) to break the ball joint free from the knuckle, pull the lower control arm down until it is free from the knuckle,

yes i had mind done for £100 but they have to replace the driver shaft aswell

With usual tools it's almost impossible to do. You need to get the special cv-joint remover many auto part stores have it. It's about $30-40, I believe.

I belive there is a snap ring one the end of the axle that keeps it in. On the end that goes into the transmission, about a quarter of an inch from the end there should be a groove in the axle. If there is, there should be a ring in it.

put the canomane joint within the allimunim spokes set and chamber cell, seek a garage this wont cost must at all ive had mine changed cost me around £30 for half hours work, seems hefty price but certainly worth doing,