Dodge Ram

Open the hood on your truck, look at the back firewall. You will see two water hoses sicking out. That is where your heater core is located. As for getting it out through the dash? Good luck.

Could be a few things.

Does it leak antifreeze? if so, fix the part that leaks.

If not, you could have coolant mixing with oil inside the engine, which burns it.

check your spark plugs. If they are white, you are probably burning antifreeze - fix immediately.

your exhaust will smell "sweet" as well if you are burning antifreeze.

Gas, automatic holds about 12 quarts when empty.

Diesel auto holds about 16

Turn the key from off to on, the quickly off on off on off on the codes should show up in odometer spot

The actuator is on the front axle towards the passager side. It has 2 vacume hoses comming off of it.

You need to have the intake heater grid tested.

Sounds like you've got a bad driveshaft.

Remove the ignition cable cover from top of engine,then detach the wiring plug from the sensor. Remove the front cambelt cover and you can see the single bolt which holds the sensor in place. Undo this and pull the sensor out upwards.Refit in reverse order,do not overtighten the sensor bolt.(torque 6Nm)


That was a great help. I just completed this procedure myself as an absolute novice but for a 2001 Vectra 2.2 l the procedure is slightly more involved. The cam sensor (Part no 90458252 made by Siemens) can be replaced as above but in order to remove the cambelt cover you need to detach the sub frame that hold up the engine.

Place a jack underneath the engine sump with a block of wood and jack up the engine several turns (Don't lift the entire car!). This will remove the pressure off the sub frame.

The sub frame is bolted with 3 bolts to the engine through the Cambelt cover. Remove these bolts. Take it slowly and adjust the jack if pressure on the bolts is high.

The cambelt cover itself is attached by two bolds as far as I can see and a clip on the top. Remove these. This will allow you to pull back the cambelt cover far enough to access a small bolt that holds the cam sensor in place.

Undo this bolt. Now the cam sensor can be pulled up from the top. Once the cam sensor is removed you can undo the wiring. This is different from the above description because the plug is help in place by a spring clip. Also make sure to attach the plug and locking clip before you insert the cam sensor.

Take off rear wheel. Remove brake calipers and support them with wire. Remove rotors. If they do not come right off they are either rusted on or they are stuck on the parking brake which is "drum style" located inside the rotor. There should be a hole in the hub face of the rotor to access the adjuster. Try turning the adjuster with a screw driver or brake spoon. Turning the adjuster "UP" loosens "Down" Tightens. Sometimes a large rubber hamer or prybar is needed.

My truck is a 1995 Silverado but I would imagine they are the same. Open the golve box. On the outer left side you will find a cable attached. Slightly close the box and slide the clip forward to remove. You will then be able to squeeze the top of the glovebox a little and lower it down to remove.

The bolt pattern is 5x115

Front passenger side of the engine, near the alternator.

Any year model that has the 5.9L Cummins I-6 Turbo Diesel. That would include the very first Dodge diesel, up until 07 1/2. The 6.7L Cummins I-6 is junk.

I concur with the previous statement, the 5.9 is the way to go. I prefer the 12 valve with a manual transmission (89-98) because of the great reliability and the simple systems. The 24 valve (98.5 -02) has an electric injection pump that seems to give everyone problems about every 150,000 miles. However the four doors on the 03-07 are very tempting some days and the common rail injection pump is more reliable than the previous 24 valves. The automatic trany and the 4x4 front end will give you problems on a regular basis no matter what year you get. my favorite years are the 96-98 and the 04.5-06

No, Dodge does not use inertia/reset switches

ATF+4 is automatic transmission fluid specifically engineered to protect and prolong the life of Chrysler automatic transmissions.

The difference is that your mamma is so fat, that her blood type is chocolate.

Thank you very much for your time and please come again and donate some money for this excellent answer.

Inside the gas tank, part of the fuel pump module.

Inside the gas tank, part of the fuel pump module.

If you are getting more than 15 - 17 mpg, you are doing very well.

The 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 PU came equipped with the 6F55 6-speed automatic transmission. The total service fill for this transmission is 11.6 quarts.

http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/k6859319.pdf

a lot can cause a misfire: primarily fouled spark plug(s) or bad wire(s). also a corroded distributor cap or rotor. a vacuum leak, a bad or leaking fuel injector, engine out of time and mechanical engine faults including compression leaks and sticking valves. more often than not it is simply a fuel or ignition system problem both of which are fairly easy to solve. troubleshoot your ignition by first assuring that you have fire. if the engine does not crank at all pull the coil wire off at the cap and set it within an inch of the tower and crank the engine. sparks should emit from this wire to the coil. you can test each individual spark plug wire this same way by just unplugging it and arcing the spark. then pull out the spark plugs to examine them and replace as necessary (on a dodge use champion plugs). the cap can be removed (make sure to put it on exactly as it came off and put each wire back exactly as it was or it will NOT fire correctly). to check for fuel disconnect the line at the fuel rail on top of the intake manifold and turn the key to ON. this will kick on the fuel pump and should push fuel out of the line as the pump primes. if this test works but you still are not getting fuel to a particular cylinder(s) start unplugging injectors while the engine is running and make a note of which one does not change the idle as this is your problem cylinder. remember any ignition or fuel system fault will disrupt your fuel/air ratio and can damage the catalytic convertor and o2 sensors

Stock? No. (Assuming equal drivers.)

Make shure your battery connections are clean and shinny and the battery has more than 12volts I have had problems with Dodges in the past with this it could be a cheap fix. Also check it for codes.

I had to replace my lower controll arm on my 2500 all you need is a picklefork and a bfh hammer and or a air hammer it should work well