Dodge Ram

One or more of the tail lights, head lights, or brake lights is out.

5.7L, in the intake behind the throttle body. 3.7 and 4.7L in the side of the oil filler housing. 8.0L, doesn't have one - has an orifice system. 3.9, 5.2, 5.9L - on the top of the valve cover.

the 318 (5.2L) has a Chrysler 44re transmission and the 360 (5.9L) has the Chrysler 46re transmission. The 318's also used the 46re and/or 46rh (depending on year) until Chrysler began to cheap out i believe in 1995. The Cummins diesels use the 47re transmission. all are 4 speed automatic, i don't know any of the manuel transmissions used.

The cam sensor is located on the left side of the engine (as your looking at it) on the valve cover. It is the only sensor that is located on that side on the upper part of the engine.

The torque converter solenoid is inside the transmission on the valve body.

The torque converter solenoid is inside the transmission on the valve body.

The crank sensor is used by the ECM to determine timing. However, if the sensor is not working, the ECM determines the same things from the inputs of other sensors for timing. The net is that the sensor amounts to a redundancy, allowing the ECM to determine appropriate timing more quickly than without it.

The reverse lights are not adjustable.

The weight of a 1988 Dodge Ram 50 4x4 w/ 2.6L G54B Engine is 4655lbs (2111 Kg)

Special luxury trim

there isn't one

I own a 1994 Ram and i think it would be the same for your '96. Open your driver side door and on the side of your dash will be a removable panel, remove it and you will see a fuse block. The fuse for the buzzer, and the buzzer itself, will be in there.

Don't know if this will help or not but I had exactly the same problem with mine and it turned out that the fuel pump needed replacing.

There are three on the left, three on the right, and two on the rear.

On a 96, it is on the passenger side under dash and pokes through firewall.

use a small screwdriver to pry out the wire retaining clip located half way down on the plug.

If equiped with a blue plastic clip in the connector:

Pull or Pry the blue clip halfway out, using a small screwdriver or plyers. Push the tang on the side and completely remove the blue clip. Now with the blue clip removed squeeze the tang and pull the connector off.

Dunno if it's any help, but on my 93 model it was 125 INCH pounds. No sequence was listed so I criss-crossed in an alternating pattern.

there's a vacum switch on my 86 that's on the top of the transfer case between it and the floor board. that switch operates a diaphragm located on the passenger fender well near the battery in the engine compartment. that diaphragm in turn is hooked to a cable that goes to the front axle, and engages. it. your problem could be the switch on the transfer case. that was the case on mine, and I decided that it was easier to route a manual vacum pump from the cab to that diaphragm to engage the front end than it would be to try to change out that switch. not reccomending this, just offering other possiblilites.

On my 94 S10 Blazer the vacuum diaphragm is under the battery tray. You have to remove the battery and the tray to access the diaphragm.

i have a 95 dodge ram 360 and i believe that it is vacume advanced for the distributor but then again i changed my spark plugs wires and distributor/cap and my truck started missing...???/ i have a 95 dodge ram and the same thing happened i had to rout the ignition wire over the valve cover

Any parts store ,like Autozone can print you one.

I take that back with apologies. 0720 IS the output sensor, p0727 would be the input

From: Jim M. Auto Zone, NAPPA and Discount Auto Parts sells the Output Speed Sensor for about $16.00 or a little more. It costs $25.00 at the dealer. I checked the code myself, with my own code checker which is very inexpensive, when my engine light came on as my transmission hesitated between first and second gear.

I have a 1999 Dodge 1500 Ram van with a 318 Cubic Inch (5.2 Liter) engine with a four speed (Three speed with Overdrive), transmission. I have 138,000 miles on my van.

The sensor is located near the rear of the transmission on the driver's side and is easily accessible. All you need is a one inch wrench to remove it. The color may vary from grey to white, etc. The wire clamps on to the head of the sensor and comes off very easily. The sensor screws out very easily. When it is removed a small amount of transmission fluid may drip out. Replace the old sensor with the new one by just screwing it in and replacing the wire to the sensor.

Took my code reader and turned the code off. Drove the van down the road and had no problems with it after the sensor replacement. Transmissions shifts quite easily with no hesitation.

After doing some research, found out that the sensor checks the speed of the trans-axle to let the transmission know when to shift. If there is a short-circuit on that sensor, it does not tell the transmission to shift to the next gear and causes the check-engine light to come on. I got around the problem by pressing the accelerator more at first to make it shift, however, I also found out that if I manually shifted from 1st gear to second to third that also worked, until I could get to the auto parts store to buy the sensor. Remember, it is the Output Speed Sensor for the P0720 code.

Only took about 15 minutes to replace.

Thanks (jhmeeinc44@aol.com) thx all solutions the same on 2000 dodge dakota!

The fuel filter is above the fuel tank filler neck mounted in a clip bracket that is next to the frame. The best way to find it is to take your hand and run it along the fattest fuel line you find and it should be within a foot. Wiggle it free of its bracket to expose it. After servicing it, put it back in the bracket to prevent vibrations and potential damage to the fuel lines.

I6, 1-5-3-6-2-4
V6, 1-6-5-4-3-2

They were rated at 230 hp

Trouble code P0121 means:Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A circuit range/performance problem

Rear of engine, upper part of exhaust system.