Dodge Ram

in the block

Try Bas pro shops or Cabelas. They have a pretty good selection of recoil pads. Also a gunsmith can usually help you out.

people

Six quarts.

32mm

The fuel filter is part of the pump module in the fuel tank.

The filter is in the tank, part of the fuel pump module

5-30

I have a 93 Honda Civic LX with the same problem. I had everything replaced and nothing worked. I took it to a very good electrician and he figured out the problem for me. Its a connector that connects the Master window switch to the rest of the car windows. Mine had moisture damage so it worked on and off and only with certain windows. But the rest of the window switches operated the windows fine. It should be in the door panel/hidden around the door hinge.

i believe its 20 qts.

That is correct. 10 quarts of antifreeze and 10 quarts of distilled water.

No, Dodge does not use inertia switches.

Approx 11.5

pretty big heavy engine with most of the weight being in the heads.

12 quarts

Most early ones where advertised at 335 hp

Newer ones are in the 390 hp range

There are four ways to find a ratio.

1 A dealer can normally tell from the vin number.

2 There are normally tags or labels on the axle that have part number, gear ratio, and fluid requirement

info.

3 You can count how many times you have to turn the driveshaft to get one complete turn of the tires.

4 You can divide the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide by number of teeth on the pinion.

5 quarts

if it is 4x4 the front diff needs to be removed.this isn't even easy on a lift at the dealer.don't recomend on your backon the driveway.

Most likely poor wiring.

If your doing static timing ( #1 piston tdc compression stroke) then the rotor should be pointing at the #1 piston which is driver's side front. also to know that its close it should also be pointing at the coil. if it doesn't line up correctly then remove distributor and with a long handled flat tipped screw driver look into the distributor hole and turn the oil pump rod to line it close to the same direction as the rotors position.

Wow! That was probably the guy who wanted $38 to tell me a plug gap! There is a little more to it than that. If you have a small block that was built by Chevy, then you have one of those rare ones that the crankshaft turns twice, to once, of the camshaft. And, if your starting from scratch, a new motor, say, then you wont have anything to go by. Ok. Here it is, Ready? when number 1 piston is just before TDC, (top dead center), (number 1 cylinder is driver side, front,) the timing could be 180 degrees off. Since 1, and 6 oppose each other, look at the intake, and exhaust valves on number 6. The exh. should be just closing, and the intake will be just opening. This, my friend is called "overlap". 6 will have completed its exhaust stroke, and starting it's intake stroke, when 1 is firing. As far as where the rotor is pointing, is not important, as long as you make that number 1 cylinder. Then follow it with 8436572. Mystery solved. Drivers side from front is odd, ie.1 3 5 7, from front, and pass side from front, is 2 4 6 8. You can make number 1 anywhere you want, as long as the rotor is pointing to it @ TDC, while 6 is on overlap. Another trick, turn the dist. a touch counter clockwise from 1. With points, you want to reverse the dist until they are open. This will put a touch of advance into the timing making it easier to start. Remember, fire out of the carb, is too much advanced, turn the dist clockwise. Backfire out the exhaust, is too much retard, so turn it counter clockwise a touch. I like to move the dist. while someone is spinning the motor over. And do not make an idiot out of yourself, by using a screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive. Simply pit the dist in as far as you can, just counter clockwise of the number 1 post on cap. Have someone lightly tap starter over, while you hold dist down. As the cam comes around, it will turn the gear, (don't hold the rotor, hold the aluminum body), and the dist. will fall right into place. Remember when you decide where no. 1 will be, make sure you have enough room to adjust timing. The vacuum advance may hit intake runners. Also, you are better to set timing @ total, rather than initial. Initial makes it run, however, total is where the motor runs most of the time. Happy motoring.

Check the fluid level in your radiator. A low level can cause this. If you have checked your fluid level and everything is still not OK, then I suggest you change your heater block, it may be blocked or damaged.

I agree it is probably the heater core. It is located behind the dash on the passenger side. This means it will be a fairly long process( removing the dash assembly, etc.). High labor cost at a shop for a $100 part. There are numerous guides online if you feel up to the task.( Google search: how to replace a heater core in a jeep wrangler) probably a weekend project.

Allow about 30 minutes to an hour for this.

Remove the caliper, pads, and pad holder bracket.

Use a cutting torch to heat the rotor near it's center hole to a very high temperature.

Use a 20 lbs. sledge hammer to repeatedly strike the inside braking surface as hard and as squarely as you can. Oh yeah, wear safety glasses. Small fragments of sharp hot metal are likely to fly off in random directions.

After striking the rotor about 5 times, rotate the rotor about 60 degrees and start swinging the hammer again.

Eventually, the rotor will move a little and you will be able to wrangle it off.

If this sounds like a lot of work, just be happy you aren't removing rear wheels from a late model Ford F-450.

5w30 or 5w20

15W40