Dodge Ram

Yes, that is the proper fluid.

Yes, that is the proper fluid.

inline six 1,5,3,6,2,4 for a v8 1.8,4,3,6,5,7,2 for a v6 1,6,5,4,3,2

inline six ( cyn ) start at front goes 123456 for v8 start at drivers side cyn numbers 1 3 5 7 ( L/H side )2 4 6 8 for v6 at drivers side 1 3 5 L/H side 2 4 6 inline 6 distributor rotation clockwise for 318,360 eng v8 clockwise for 400,440 eng v8 counter clockwise for v6 clockwise rotation you

your fuel injectors are mounted on each side of the intake manifold....if V-6,youll have 3 on each side, if V-8, youll have 4 on each side. Unless it is "TBI" Throttle Body Injected...then the above does not apply.

yea

Yes

These cars don't use a crank sensor - the ignition module watches the electrical properties of the #4 cylinder spark plug and uses that to calculate where the engine is within the mechanical rotation.

If you are having troubles, verify/replace that spark plug and the wiring. In a past experience with this car, it turned out to be the ignition module, located under the coil packs.

This happened to me arter about 2 years of ownership. The dodge dealership tested all 3 computors and finally came up with the airbag going to "sleep" once they "woke" it up the problem went away and hasn't come back since. I didnt know that the airbags even got tired but apparently they do. The dealership fixed it but it wasnt cheap about 700.00 later I was able to once again know how fast I was going and how much fuel I had. hope this helps.

This refers to the second oxygen sensor on Bank 1. Bank 1 is the same side of the engine that cylinder 1 is on, the very front cylinder on the drivers side. It could need to be replaced, or there could be a short to voltage on the O2 signal circuit, or it could also be that the connector has been corroded, and needs to just be cleaned. I believe this code is the same for all vehicles.

4.5

Approx 35 gallons

Bring to a shop that has both a engine and ABS scanner to determine problems or clear codes Rotors may need to be re-surfaced or replaced to eliminate "bouncing"

Many Dodge & Ford wheels are inter-changable.

When going to larger diamater or wider rims you must check the turn radius and the height in the fender well for clearance. Thus the reason for BIGFOOT. (raising vehicles)

35Mm

No dirt is normally mynewt, so it does not cause drag, but if there was a large clump stuck to it yes, it would cause drag

The transmissions should be the same, but the torque converters are different.

The transmissions should be the same, but the torque converters are different.

The joints are "lubed for life" when they are built.

are you in your truck?just kidding tap the end of the key when its in the ignition.with a flashlight or something usually that frees it up.pocket lint gets in the key and mixes with the grease inside the cylinder an then they get gummed up try a little lock fluid that will help other than having the cylinder rebuilt or cleaned out

This is a very common problem on Dodge transmissions and I'm about to fix this problem myself on my 1997 5.9L 1500. It's most likely being caused by faulty ATF selenoids. Replacing these selenoids will fix your problems, but most likely only temporarely. They usually become clogged due to metal shavings getting caught in the screen filter of the selenoid. I'm not positive where the metal shavings come from, but I would say the torque convertor. For a long-term fix I would recommend replacing the transmission with a lower mileage tranny. This is a very common problem on Dodge transmissions and I'm about to fix this problem myself on my 1997 5.9L 1500. It's most likely being caused by faulty ATF selenoids. Replacing these selenoids will fix your problems, but most likely only temporarely. They usually become clogged due to metal shavings getting caught in the screen filter of the selenoid. I'm not positive where the metal shavings come from, but I would say the torque convertor. For a long-term fix I would recommend replacing the transmission with a lower mileage tranny.

Pounding on the rotor does not work well...as you have already found out! The best way to remove the rotor requires three people. Here's how: Jack up the car, Remove the wheel, disconnect the caliper and now you are ready to remove the rotor. As you know the disc simply slips on, but the rust is like weld, so it won't just slip off.

Get a piece of pipe -- 3/4 inch rigid works well. Make it about 5-6 feet long. Have one person sit across from the rotor, have another person on the other side of the car with a sledge hammer and you position yourself under the car lining up the end of the pipe on the back side of the rotor (where the caliper was removed). Now, have sledge hammer guy (on the opposite side of the rotor you want removed) wham the pipe which is tight against the rotor. Have rotor guy turn the rotor about 2 inches, then have sledge hammer guy wham it again. Your job is to make sure the pipe is aligned properly against the rotor on the back side. After about 3 or 4 minutes of this, the rotor will pop loose. I figured this out after about 4 1/2 hours of frustration!

1-6-5-4-3-2 rotates clockwise

The speed sensor tells how fast the wheels are turning. The cruise control uses this to maintain the speed. When you get the code for speed sensor it is not working properly.

The combination of the front control module and the under hood fuse box is called the integrated power module.

inside alt

8x6.50

if this is a diesel, it is the easiest water pump to change

remove serpentine belt

remove water pump. install new pump reinstall serpentine belt

pump is on front of engine just left of fan as you stand in front and look at engine