Dodge Stealth

Right under the dash on your driver side

you have to take out the rear tailight assembly from inside the trunk, there are 3 bolts, the then Slides towards the rear of the car, the whole tailight assembly does, you also have to take off the cover inside the trunk area. it's not hard.

I'm not a machanic and i had no problems with this operation. The front bank is pretty easy. Just remove the cover over the plugs and change them out. The rear bank is a little more difficult. You must remove the plenem bolts covering the rear bank. Diconnect the intake tube from the throttle body. Once the intake is removed and the bolt are taken out the plenem, you should be able to lift the plenem enough to get to the plugs. The best I have found is to have a buddy handy at time of install and when you lift the plenem have the buddy hold it for you. You should be able to install the six new plugs in under an hour. Doug / / / / / / I found a link with pictures and detailed instructions. http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkchange.htm Hope this helps you out. Da Moo

when the engine starts and is warming up the idle is supposed to be at around 1500 rpm but when the engine warms up the idle should drop to between 700 and 1000 rpm. if it doesnt drop then see a mechanic because it is a very complicated fix

could be the relay.

As far as I have been able to locate, there is only one repair manual for the dodge stealth in existence and it is the manufacturer's repair manual. This manual is in 2 parts. One book is all chassis/engine electrical (schematics and locations as well as assembly/dissassembly) the other book is all the rest of the vehicle's assembly/ dissassembly schematics. It is by no means as easy to understand as a haynes manual, but it is all that is out there. If you are interested, you can order one from any Chrysler dealer for about $60 CDN.

Is there something specific you are trying to locate?

3sx.com also sells a 2 book set that is reprinted with heavy paper but a little pricy

No, they are not the same.

Check for codes. Possibly, Change the fuel filter, then check the fuel pressure at the rail, to make sure the fuel pump is putting out proper pressure.

Out of car method.

Remove the head and sump

Undo the con rods from the crank, then slide the con rod & piston out.

In car method.

Drain the coolant

Remove the cylinder head(s)

Raise the car.

Drain the oil

Remove the sump.

Undo the con rods from the crank.

Push up the piston and con rod assembly.

On some vehicles it is not possible to remove the sump in situation.

A good home workshop manual will be a real help in doing this job.

the square thing around the sterio, pop it off and the mounting screws are behind it.

below the air intake on the throttle body

It is a 33mm socket you will me to remove the nut

no it does not you have to jack up the car and take out the fill plug in the front of trans then squrt new inn until it is pouring back out then put your plug back in and done but I would recommend changing all of the fluid if your going through the hassel there is a drain plug a little back from the fill plug facing the driver side tire.......JAC

On a 94 Stealth, the relay for the rear wiper is in the fuse housing box. It is located on the passenger side, under the hood.

I had the same problem in my 91 r/t. I found out my clutch and pressure plate were junk. But before you replace the clutch, there is an adjustment you can make under the dash on the clutch master cylinder. There is a lock nut that you loosen and turn the master cylinder shaft right or left. Its supposed to adjust your free travel on your clutch pedal. Try that first. ********************* Assuming your fluid levels are OK, another possibility is that your master cylinder is trashed. You can buy the seal kit to rebuild it yourself, or have a shop rebuild or replace it for you. When I had this problem, replacing both my master and slave cylinders solved the problem.atag

if you have the twin turbo motor the fuse should be in the fuse box that is underneath the hood in front of the passenger side headlight.it should be a 15a fuse on the extreme left in the box.

yes, it is recommended

Basically you use the buffer on the car until the all the compound is removed.

You can check the related link for more details on how to buff a car.

you need an analog voltmeter, to take it to a dodge / Mitsubishi dealer at about a hundred bucks a pop or pick up a datalogger like i did for about 112.00 which you can check and clear codes for as long as you own the car and not play Morse code with a voltmeter

i went to handheldhalo.com decent product, gets the job done

remove the oil plug from the bottom of the oil pan and catch with something. let drain for 20 minutes and place plug back in oil pan and tighten. add amount of oil recommended for your engine. start engine and let run for 2 minutes then shut off and check level on dip stick. Do not add too much oil, a little under wont hurt your engine but too much will. Fully synthetic oil recommended.

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

the 3000gt yes as long as both either manual or auto but cant interchange

No the Timing Belt has Nothing to do with the Transmission. When was the last service you had done on the Transmission. Regular Service Keeps Your Transmission on the Road…
Servicing your car’s automatic transmission regularly can dramatically extend its life. That’s because the oil — or ATF — does more than just lubricate: It also helps drive the transmission. Damage to the fluid, such as oxidation and shear, will reduce its holding power. This allows the transmission to slip and overheat, and quickly cause it to fail. A complete fluid exchange service, performed annually, can add years to your transmission’s life. For Example GMC say's this about Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter Replacement Interval:
Every 100000 miles unless the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
1) In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.
2) In hilly or mountainous terrain.
3) When doing frequent trailering. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For Information & Contact Details.

check ob1 codes by turning key on off on off on the mil light will blink out your code.

In the fuel tank

lol that person is funny, yes it is in the fuel tank, the access pannel is located under the trunk trays and spare tire, remove 4 screws and move the pannel (which is on the passenger side) and there you find the pump