Pop the trunk, there are three plastic wing nuts that hold the lens to the body (one is hidden under the carpet which can be removed by two screws), remove the wing nuts, pull the lens away from the body. On the back side of the lens twist the grey cap firmly that holds the bad bulb and remove cap. Pull the bad build out replace with a new bulb.
Remove wheel
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Rotor should slide off hub Remove wheel
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Rotor should slide off hub
In the trunk, under the spare tire cover.
Your water pump may have seized up which in turn snapped your timing belt. Get that checked out before you get your engine rebuilt. That is what happened to mine.
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== == The clue is the over heating condition...........the engine is SEIZED, meaning it is stuck and needs to be rebuilt by a engine shop. If the engine cannot be turned over by hand, it is seized. Put the trans in neutral, and use your hands to try to turn the engine by pushing on the pulleys or by pulling on the belts. If it won't turn, it is cooked. When an engine is super heated, metal parts expand and get bigger, so that things that normally have clearance, now are hitting each other. Have it checked by a professional mechanic, to be sure about this.
You have a short to ground or a bad connection that is causing the circuit to "draw" too many amps, causing the fuse to go out. This will be hard to diagnose. Sometimes the wires in the distributer module area inside the distributer cover will crack with age and allow the spark out to ground. Could be a bad module or igniter module on firewall.
Do you have an aftermarket alarm? did they chop into your ignition circuit to add an engine kill? That is often a cause. check your battery clamps first. If there is a crustiness, that will cause a current problem. Always check your battery before all else. 9 out of 10 it originates there. Good luck. sounds like mechanic time...
There is a fault. Could be as simple as low fluid, but that usually lights the "BRAKE" indicator. The ABS goes through a startup check which will light the light if there isn't an adequate response on ABS function. The ABS unit probably needs to be repaired or replaced if it isn't low fluid or doesn't clear after a few starts. There could also be a problem in one of the brake lines or calipers. UNless you are a mechanic, I'd take it to a dealer or certified brake repair place. If the ABS unit light is on, it is likely the ABS will not work. You'll still have brakes, just no ABS. BUT - I'd get it checked out to make sure the car is safe.
I had the ABS light stay on in my 99 Old Intrigue and it cost me $1366.03 to fix it at the dealer. Obviously they just replaced it instead of tryin to fix it. That's what dealers do because time is money. This was the breakdown: GM Part: VLV K REM (18060807) Price:$654.41, GM Part: Core Sale (18060807) Price:$56.00, GM Part: Core Retu Price $56.00, GM Part: Motor Kit (18024482) Price: $371.82, GM Part: Fluid Price: $8.38 Labor:$259 Tax:$72.42 This was to install a bake modulator and ABS Motor Pack.
If you feel like spending several thousand Dollars, you can get a machine which will evacuate the refrigerant and oil, store it, recharge your system, pull a vacuum to leak test the system.. our shop recently got one from Cornwell tools, and it was right around $6000. Oh.. the machine also requires a cylinder of R134a, which you can't buy without the corresponding ASE certification.
There's a simpler method.. all it requires is a vacuum pump, R134a cylinder, a scale, and a manifold gauge set... oh, wait... the R134a cylinder again. Well, guess that's not going to work so well for you.
But, that's alright. Because the thing of it is, is that you've (maybe) lost refrigerant from a 2001 model year vehicle. If that doesn't seem unusual to you, I've never had to add refrigerant or PAG to my vehicle, which is a 1997 model year. While it's not unheard of to lose enough refrigerant through connections to where it won't provide sufficient cooling, you have reason to suspect a malfunction of some form.
See, just because your AC isn't blowing hot air, it doesn't mean that you don't have enough refrigerant. There are seven operating conditions for diagnosing an AC system, which are based on the pressure readings taken from the high and low sides of the system while it is in operation. Condition one is normal operation, while the remaining ones all lead to insufficient cooling. Thus, there are a number of reasons an AC system may not cool properly... you could have a bad low pressure switch, you could have blockage in the system, you could have bent condenser fins which don't allow sufficient airflow through in order to allow the heat exchange to take place, you could have a leak which is allowing refrigerant to escape, your compressor might not be functioning properly, etc., etc., etc.
Why you don't get sufficient cooling from your AC system requires a diagnosis. Because if it is, say, a blockage in your system, adding refrigerant isn't going to do anything for you. And if it is low refrigerant as the result of a leak, then you're going to want to get that repaired - otherwise, the refrigerant is just going to leak right back out again.
I'd recommend you find a reputable shop, and have them do a system performance test (which should come with a refrigerant purity test, as well) in order to determine the cause of your AC system's performance.
By the way, when you use one of those DIY AC recharge kits from Wal Mart, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advanced Auto Parts, etc., you don't evacuate the system beforehand - you simply add refrigerant to whatever you have left in your system.
You need to have the ABS system scanned with a computer to determine the reason for the light staying "on"
Yes, it is part of the pump module in the tank.
IF the code is not written in the owners manual(J0001-3580 or L0001-3580) then you can either go to dealership and have them cut the key for you. Or, you can have a locksmith do it. You can save money by bringing the locksmith the passenger side door cylinder. The reason I'd take passenger side is there's less electronics in the door and usually has less wear. The door and ignition share all the same cuts. The 1997 Dodge Ram also did not have a transponder key that year.
I think you can call the dealership and give them the VIN number and they can get you the right key.
With great difficulty!
have a look at the following link it'll answer everything you need
www.206info.co.uk/ForumsPro/viewtopic/t=26104.html
Go to peugeot give them your car reg and get a replacement rheostat or control resistor as they are sometimes known for the heater.
Then go home!
Make a nice cup of tea as you will be going a while!
Then get hold of a Torx 20 Screwdriver and a torch.
You will need to take out the Glovebox so you may as well empty it first.
You need to take the cover off the Glovebox open it but don't let it all way down just pull it out while it's still vertical otherwise it doesn't come out.
Then you need to take out the screws behind the Glovebox cover with the T20 screwdriver and also if you look closely there is another screw inside the Glovebox facing upwards, ( I missed that for a while! )
OK once you have taken all of those out you should be able to push the Glovebox down and out there will be some wires attached to the left hand side, detach them taking note of how they go in.
Right Glovebox out!
Now you need to take out the fan blower.
SO what you need to do is stick your torch and head in behind the Glovebox and if you look as if towards the central console but from behind you will see a round looking object with one screw in.
You need to take that screw out and then turn the thing clockwise. ( This will be really really tight so you need to twist hard, it took me a good few attempts )
Once you have dislodged it there is a clip that goes into the top of the fan for the power, you must take that out and then pull the blower out.
Once you have done this you can reach inside the air duct and you will feel the rheostat. Grab hold of it, twist it to unlock it from its place and pull it towards you.
Once you have done that, then just unplug it out of the socket and then plug the new one in, then push it back to where it was and twist it back to lock it into place.
Put the fan back in and plug the wire in making sure you don't get the wire caught in the air duct.
Screw fan screw back in.
Replace Glovebox!
your done!
Will save you over a £100 in labour charges .....................
we found out that we need to press the ignition "reset button" where is this?
Changing the water pump on the fromt wheel druve cars is hard since there is limited room. Get a manual on your car.
The 2.4 engine is similar to the 2.0 Neon motor. I did a water pump on one of those recently and it runs off of the timing belt. It wasn't a quick and easy job but doable if you have a puller for the crank pulley and patience. You will be working under the right front wheel well a lot. And like mentioned above - get a repair manual. You'll need to re-tension the timing belt.
Probably because the spring-loaded horn plunger is getting pinched causing it to find a ground within the steering wheel. You will need to loosen up the steering wheel and retrace your steps.I hope this helps you.
in the 03 model its 200
The 2001 model is also 200.
First, which engine are you talking about? Better yet, I'll just say yes. Fit and finish, A Dodge Stratus is exactly like a Mitsubishi Eclipse all the way down to the lug nuts. The only difference is badging and exterior.