Eagle Talon

you may have another bad turbo, or could even be bad rings with the oil leaking into your turbo, how long after you installed the turbo did it start happening again?

If its an automatic tranny then its in the same area as the ECU behind the stereo

A 1995-98 Eagle Talon Tsi has 210hp

Possibly under the Engine itself in the back next to the firewall. You may have to take out the Battery and Battery Tray.

Haynes and Chilton have manuals that cover 1995 Talons. You can buy them for $20 at Autozone, Advanceauto parts, etc. If you are very serious about repairs, you can get factory manuals, often on eBay.

i don't know off the top of my head but I know the Chilton manual (could be at your library) is really detailed on how to fix it.

top speed is 140 MPH.

The Sensor is dirty cause of a lower intake leak it allows oil to get in the radiator. lower intake leaks roughly cost $800 to fix at a normal mechanic shop hope this helps.

Go to your local DMV with the seller in tow, and ask for a duplicate title. You may end up in a mess here as you should have never bought a car without the seller providing the title. You have no proof you even own the car unless the seller is honest.

Filing for a storage lien is how you may proceed to acquire title without trying to get ahold of the seller in tow. Ask for the forms at the DMV.

gas leak?

Lets start by saying the two cars for many years are the same. Made by one company in the US. If you are taking the tranny out of the same power train level of another car it will fit. If you want to change auto to 5 speed it can be done as well. If you change that, you will need to change the ecu. If you are just changing same type for same type this is a no brainer.

u have low voltage

If your car is a 1994 or earlier model, you probably have an R-12 A/C system (a system that uses R-12 refrigerant). You shouldn't mix this with R-134a. You can however use one of the alternative replacements for R-12, which I believe is R12a. Check under the hood for a label indicating whether the system is R-12 or R-134a.

Get a Haynes Manual, A Chilton Manual. You can get them at Autozone, Advance Auto, or Napa. They Run under $20. And they are very helpful.

It's run by the timing belt near the bottom of the engine. (Passenger side of engine). So you need to remove the timing belt cover to get at it.

1995 is considered 2nd generation, and all 2nd gens. have 7 bolt

check your fuse for the cig lighter

When you press on the accellerator, combustion gas creates more exhaust pressure. The rise in exhaust pressure increases the speed of the turbo, thereby increasing the intake pressure, which is the turbo boost. You will not be able to benefit from turbo boost until the turbo spins up. That's where the lag comes from. It's inherent in turbo systems. Ive only had one turbo car but I know it had an air pressure activated dump gate that would only allow turbo air pressure to enter the intake at a preset PSI. There were ways to increase ( bigger boost) or decrease (more power throughout driving range) the gate release point with rheastats or performance chips.

Just do basic maintenance and smooth driving and you should get a long life out of it. It's not terribly amazing on gas because of it's weight, but it's built like a war tank; it's very solid. It's pretty much a two seater, very little room in the back but it's very, very comfortable in the front. It looks nice but the stock wing looks ugly. Other than that, it's not a bad little car.

maybe cuz its low on coolant

the cam position sensor shoult be on the passanger side of the car on the cylinder head. it sticks out of the end of the head at the end of the intake cam.

9 psi is pushing the limit in a non-intercooled platform. 9psi is almost 3/4 of a whole extra atmosphere. that translates into almost 230 psi peak compression in a relatively large combtion chamber. its not as though you're dealing with too much piston compression but, the 5.3 is just a stroked version of the 4.8 vortec. my advice is always put the highest octane in your boost machine and invest in some head studs and full metallic gaskets and whatever you do, don't push 9psi until you can accomplish some sort of cooling. (I.E. intercooler or methanol/water injection) the problem you will run into is detonation. do yourself the favor. prepare your engine before you install/adjust boost. it may seem expensive but, i garauntee it'll be cheaper than a new engine in the long run. I'll give you this: you will be dealing with a torque monster so good luck and have fun burning tires

Under the dash, behind the stereo. It will be on the right side. Under the dash, behind the stereo. It will be on the right side. Under the dash, behind the stereo. It will be on the right side.

if the car is a 2.0 the ignition coil is located under the top of the intake manifold sitting between the valve cover.It is sitting right on the inside of the intake manifold.there is three bolts to take off and you have to on plug it.Sorry my description is probally bad.hope it helps.on a 1.8 the coil isn't replaceable because its built into the distributor you might have to replace the whole thing.I not to sure i could be possibly wrong.

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