Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer

In a 1996 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer, the speaker wires typically follow a color code. The front speakers usually have a positive wire that is either white or light green, while the negative wire is often black or dark green. For the rear speakers, the positive wire is generally gray or yellow, with the negative wire being black or brown. Always refer to a wiring diagram for your specific vehicle to confirm the colors, as variations can occur.

If you included the kind of car you have,I could be more specific but all cars have a vacuum canister under the hood. some are round plastic and some are a tin can and most are black. There shuold be a vacuum line going from the intake to one end and a vacuum line out of the other that supplies vacuum to the interior of the car, There should be a one way valve in the canister or the line from the intake. This valve is not functioning and loosing vacuum in the resirvoir. If it is in the resirvoir which most are, replace the resirvoir.

most auto parts store carry manuels on most cars just find the one that is on your van and a diagram of how the belts go on will be in it. the books cost around 15 dollars to buy but some store will let you look at them.

If you can hear the power window motor "trying" to work, and you still can't get the window to roll up, the most likely cause is a bad window regulator. In some vehicles, the regulators are made from plastic and become brittle over time. I had the same problem with a 2002 jeep liberty and followed advice (see related links below for the reference) I found by googling on how the "repair/rig" the regulator to work again. As a worst case scenario, you may have to buy a replacement regulator. The good news is, it's not terribly difficult to replace, especially if your a do-it-yourself'er.

the speed senor is on the dirver side of the transmission tail shaft and there are 4 oxygen sensors and thay are on the exhaust by the transmission

just removed mine it is hiden behind the emegency brake pedel you must remove the left f tire then remove the wheel well liner at least the rear of the liner pull the liner forward the ecm is in the firewall 2 /11 mm nuts hold it in place one 10 mm bolt holds the conector also you can see it from under the hood far left side to the left of the main wiring conctor

Are you sure it has one? I do not think it does. Go here to make sure. Scrool down to cabin filters. http://www.fram.com/products/airFilters.php

check haynes manual "firing sequence" or "firing order"

Sometimes in damp climates where it is damp in the morning or after dark the vehicle will not start due to the spark plug wires being too old and the insulation is rotted and arcing. all the energy is dissipating before it gets to the cylinders. turn the lights off of check in low light conditions and have a buddy turn the car over you may be able to see the sparks dissipating on the engine from the wires. replace the wires with good 8mm insulated spark plug wires. good luck!

no,not as long as you haven't replaced a hose,line or any thing else that might let air in

You need a four pronged hub tool that you can rent at Kragen to remove the inner hub other than tha there is the Allen screws, a couple of spring clips and you should have it off.

33.5 gallons

Typically rotors come from the factory covered with a waxy material to prevent rust. Yes, it's a good idea to remove that material before using the brakes.

Bauer one 95

You need to determine what you're losing first. Is it spark? fuel? or compression? I would suspect the first 2. Lets eliminate fuel by getting it when it is cranking but not starting. (I am assuming you don't know if fuel is or is not the problem). Spray some starting fluid into the throttle bore for a few seconds, then go try and start it. If it starts, loss of fuel is your problem. Say it doesn't start, your down to probably loss of spark. Without seeing the chart for troubleshooting, I would suspect that the answer for testing the ECM is "Replace with known good part". Many times in that era, test procedures would lead to an ecm, but was not the problem. Typically, the control module was the answer. I am assuming you have a 3100 motor. I think you can check the resistance and compare it against a new one as far as the module goes. But I may be mistaken on that. Since you mention another problem of an intake leak, is it internal or external? Is the coolant low? The only way I see that as possibly being related is if the coolant had been drawn into the cylinders and caused hydrolic lock. But if it starts up after setting a short time, then I would disregard that. One note about intake leaks is that if it leaks internally, you oil will turn to a milkshake or coffee color. My 88 GP had a short in the thermostat in the radiator the dealer had to run a new ground wire from the computer to the thermostat to fix the problem. now the car runs but the tac buries itself.

Where can you find instructions for taking apart the hub to replace rotor on ford bronco xlt 1995

Be careful on this. I did it to myself . I install my transmission back on my 89 bronco and found out I didn't lock in the converter right and damage it. Cost me an extra $700 to repair the pump and new converter had the same systems as you.

DJ Williams

go to autozone.com and look at the online repair manual they have and it will tell you step by step

how do you remove automatic locking hub.

Well to replace the rotor you must take off the hub. to take off the hub you remove the cap. then there is a snap ring you must push together and pull the inside of the hub out. After that you need a special socket that has 4 prongs on it. take the nut off. then pull the washer out and take off the other nut witch needs the same socket. then your rotor is free to come off just pull.

the ignition actuator is broken, you can turn off the "battery power" by the the ignition actuator rod that leads to the ignition switch, it runs along the top of the steering column under the dash, locate it and pull it towards the steering wheel, this should shut off the power. or you can unhook you battery, but either way you will have to replace the actuator.

fo rthe speedometer i assume it is in the rear differential usually at the top of the pig should slide right out after removing the bolt iif not they have a tendency to implode then need to remove the cover and hammer it out

There's a wide range of what will fit, but I believe the stock wheel is 17". IMHO, 16's or 17's would look great on a near-stock El Camino, as anything larger doesn't fit the classic look.

Here are opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers: * The firing order is the order in which your ignition system sends a spark to each of your cylinders. All of your cylinders do not do the same thing at the same time, one is igniting the fuel, one is compressing the fuel, one is exhausting, etc. Spark is only going to one cylinder at a time in rapid succession. They generally do not send spark to the cylinders in the order of 1-2-3-4 ... (etc., depending on how many cylinders your car is) because the engine would be rough because the firings would go left to right. So they balance it by doing something like 1-3-2-4 ... etc. All cars are different in this order depending on model. If you put the wires on the wrong way, you can change this order and cause the engine to stumble because it will ignite at the wrong times. It will run like CRAP! Sometimes it is cast right in the block of the engine in letters. Sometimes it is in the owners manual. It is usually in a shop mechanic book. You can also find your particular order online by make and model and year. * The firing order is the order in which your ignition system sends a spark to each cylinder. * http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/

The starter can be seen from under the car and is located just in front of the oil pan and the nose of it more to the drivers side of the motor (edge of the motor and transmission). It has a round motor you will see and two wires will be bolted on to it. It is not hard to change just disconnect your battery fist, remove the nuts that hold the wires on and there are two bolt that hold the starter on to the engine. One is at the bottom of the starter and the other is up the side towards the front of the car (both on the nose of the starter)