Ford Bronco

the pcv is at the back off the engine under the upper intake in the lower intake

you unscrew it from the steering colum but the real question is WHERE DO YOU BUY AN "UPPER IGNITION ACTUATOR"?

fords had a problem with what they call idle air control motor this is located on the throttle body that's where the air inlet boot meets the intake it has a round body has two screws that hold it in place sometimes if u hit it it will unstick try and tap it with a hammer lightly

In my 86 you must remove the lower column cover, diconnect battery, insert key, turn to on. Under where the cylinder goes in there is a pin, push the pin in and pull out cylinder. Can't really describe it to

there should be a inertia switch under the carpet on pass. side of truck right by the dash board. has 2 wires one is pink w/ black stripe ( on mine) i bypass this and just splice the wires together

I have a 96 Bronco so hopefully this is the same for you. Easy to do but takes time and you need to pay attention to what order you remove the items. Jack up the Bronco and support with jack stand on the side you are working on. It does not make sense to do both sides at the same time as that is a ton of weight just hanging up there. I prefer having 3 wheels on the ground. My 96 bronco has manual locking hubs.

1) Take off chrome cap with a small torx. They are not that tight.

2) remove 1st retention clip. This can be done with 1 (2 is better) small tip screwdriver. Then remove the large retainer clip that is circling the inside lip of the hub itself, keeping the lockable gear assembly in place. Again just use a screwdriver.

3) this should allow the entire inner and outer locking gears to basically 'spring' out as they are being pushed by the spring behind it. There is another easy retaining clip that keep the inner gear inside the outer gear but you don't have to remove this clip as the innner and out gear come out as 1 piece. Take the large spring out also obviously.

4) now the fun begins. You will see an odd large nut with 4 notches on it. This looks like a special socket is needed but it is not. All you need is a large flat srewdriver and a hammer to gently tap "counter clockwise" as this nut is not torqued down very tight (and will not be when you put back on either).

5) take off the large washer with all the little holes in it. Remove it with a little angled pick of somesort as it just needs some help getting it all the way out of the hub. Notice the notch out lip on it as it only slides back on at a particular angle.

6) take off the next large nut the same way with a srewdriver, small pry bar etc. Remember counter clockwise. Notice the little 'nipple' of metal pointing towards you. This nipple actually goes through one of the holes in the washer you just took off (when re assembling). This is why I say pay attention to these small details as they matter.

7) now take out the outer bearing and repack with grease. Use the grease in the palm of your hand trick and just keep scooping and rotating until grease squeezes up and out of the race.

8)remove the hub.

9) now drive all 5 studs out by putting one lugnut on hand tight and tap it down with a hammer. To reverse you might want to use a large nut that fits loosely over each stud and air impact all 5 back on. I tried to just hammer them back in and just could not do it all the way.

10) The abs or speed sensor ring or whatever it is just taps off with a screwdriver and hammer and taps right back on.

11) to get the hub to fall out of the rotor I just hammered lightly on the outside of the back bearing race. It did not dent too bad and the hub just fell out.

12) repack the rear bearing after removing the seal. I even reused the seal as there was no grease leaking from it so what the heck.

13) put it all back together in reverse. I'd go through this all but honestly if you got this far you can do it. Just don't hammer too tightly the 2 large nuts, just one or two light taps so the hub assembly is snug. Don't forget to line up the metal nipple on the inner nut with any hole in the washer that goes between the 2 large nuts.

14) did I have to tell you how to take the brake pads off? I hope not.

Lastly the only mistake I made while doing this is treating that large retainer clip like a cv joint clip where you put it on first and the part it holds in place just "clips" in place. So I put it on the inner lip of the hub tip 1st then tried to tap the inner and outer gear knuckle into the hub. It almost goes in all the way but won't quite go enough to put that last smaller retainer clip on the end tip of the axle. I finally figured it out and took the retainer clip out, put gear assembly in, then clip back into the slot it belongs in. Now there was room for the axle tip retainer and the chrome locking cap to seat properly into the hub.

aprox 5200 Lbs. varies slightly depending on model and options

I am no expert but have just experienced a similar need to find the switch. I am assuming you are looking for the shut off switch which may 'trip' for example if you were in an accident. I found mine, [[1994 Ford Bronco - 351 engine - Eddie Bauer edition] located as follows: Open the passenger door. Looking under the dash board, just in front of the door opening [A-pillar] along the wall you will see a plastic trim piece held on with a single 'x-mas' tree type fastener. You will see along the top of the trim piece, [referred to as a cowl in the owners manual] a semi-circle molded into the top edge of the plastic trim. Try reaching your finger into the hole and locating the switch. It is located just [barely] within reach of your fingers. You should feel downward with the tip of your finger. If you cannot feel it, you will have to remove the trim piece [most likely breaking the fastener - as I did.] p.s. - wouldn't you know it, the switch is not my problem. good luck

General Motors.

Right under the oil filter on the passenger side, 2 bolts, 2 wires, 20 minutes, cant miss it. GOOD LUCK!!! Alex C. in Las Vegas

kingsfords son marries fords niece

If it is Fuel injected the pump is in the fuel tank.

If it is Carburetor the front lower section of the engine passenger side - follow fuel line

( Yes ) a 1996 Ford Bronco has a drivers side air bag

It will show " SRS " in the middle of the steering wheel

SRS means Supplemental Restraint System

plug is on the left front of axle housing. take a 3/8 drive to remove

In the 1988 Eddie Bauer version the proportioning valve is part of the brake's master cylinder. Follow the lead - I believe it's the same with the 1986'er...

If you look at some ford mags like LMC Truck, Carpenters, or Macs Auto they have adapter parts for most ford engines

it might have to be pressed in with a machine call and ask people

# Vacuum leakage check mounting bolts at carburetor,throttle body and intake manifold for tightness # Fault in fuel or electrical systems # Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve # Air filter clogged # Fuel pump not get enough fuel to carburetor/fuel injectors # Carburetor out of adjustment # Leaking head gasket.Perform compression check # Camshaft lobes worn

I am almost sure mine is 32 Gallons

Ford is much better, if it's a truck go with gm, if it's a car go with ford

the pcv will be located on the top of the valve cover with a 3/8th vaccume line connecting to it

15426378

If it is leaking on the passenger side I would agree with them; the drian hose could be opened up with caompressed air.Good luck.

It is attached in the engine on the driver side wheel well, retangular black box about 2 inch wide and 6 inches long

Speed sensor is on the rear differential.