Ford Bronco

Could be any of several. Check the little metal tag bolted to the diff. That truck also likely has a 8.8 rear, not a 9 inch. If the tag says "88" it's an 8.8. The gear ratio will be stamped with no punctuation, i.e. "327" would be a 3.27 gear.

You need to recharge your AC Lines. They will work in Low because they dont have to have so much pressure as if they were in high. So that is why they kick off and on.

20W50 is the " thicker " oil

you have to remove the hubs pull the rotors transfer the bearing races and reassemble Make it easy on yourself, buy rotors with races already installed. Most will have them. You'll need an inch pound wrench (or do it be feel)for reuse of old bearings, and a foot pound for new bearings. You'll also need the spindle nut spanner socket, snap ring pliers, a pick, hammer, and punch. The punch will have to be slightly smaller that the diamter of your lug nut studs. If you're lucky, your spindle nut will be the newer ratcheting version which I believe does not need to be torqued. The older setup had two nuts, one with a pin, and a washer between them that required alignment with both the pin and inner groves of the hub. Your's should have the new nut. First remove the lockout assembly. This will expose a snap ring on the axle shaft and an inner snap ring inside the end portion of the inner hub. Remove them both. Next use the spanner to remove the spindle nut(s). Pull the hub and rotor assembly off of the spindle. Be careful not to allow the outer wheel bearing to fall out and onto the ground. It may become damaged. The seal will keep the inner bearing from falling. After you get the bearings and seal out of the rotor you'll have to separate them. This is done by using the punch and hammer. Just set the punch on the end of the studs and pound away until they're out. Be mindful of the threads, or just replace the studs with new ones and you won't need the punch. The studs are cheap enough. Next, remove the seal and inner bearing. After that, put the hub on the new rotor and install the studs. Just set the hub end on a piece of wood to prevent damage and pound the studs in from behind. You'll seat them later when you put the wheel on. Again, use a foot pound wrench. After you have the hub and rotor together, pack your wheel bearings with high temp wheel bearing grease. This is difficult to explain, but there is a simple technique. Put a blob of grease in your palm and scoop in with the wider edge of the bearing. If you're doing it correctly, the grease will be forced through the bearing you'll see it come out of the smaller end. Rotate the bearing and repeat. After you have the bearings packed, install the inner (Larger) bearing and then a new seal. Lightly coat the spindle with grease. Put the rotor assembly on the spindle and install the outer bearing as squarely as possible. Install spindle nut and replace the lockout assemble. Put on the wheel and seat the studs. Keep everything clean, take your time, and use good parts. If you have the two nut spindle setup, put the nut with the pin on first with the pin facing out, install the washer. You may have to tighten or loosen the inner nut to line up the pin. After that, install the outer nut.

take it all apart and unclog it make shure you remember where it all goes or you are SCREWED

chloro flouro carbon (CFC) !! Hy never ever smell that gas... Its dangerous ! I mean to say its a slow poison !!

driver side inside frame rail about under seat and possibly in the fuel tank to

Look at the left side of the front axle. There should be a cable running there between the lower leg of the fork and the hub of the wheel. That's the speedometer cable. The other end should be connected to the back of the speedometer.

Most of the filming took place in Boise, ID and surrounding cities.

Where is fuel filter on 1988 bronco II?" HOW TO CHANGE IT

---- It is located underneath the car, driver side area.

Jose. DID they repo the car?? If not, I dont see how it could be correct.

Was this vehicle a repo at the time and were you paying the remaining balance to the collection agency or was the account a charge off? I am assuming that you are refering to Ford Motor Creit which I used to collect for. In most cases a 3rd party collection agency will purchase the account at pennies on the dollar or the account will be placed with a fee once the account is collected. It is the collection agency responsiblity to update the creditor of payments and in some cases update credit reports. Also it is a good idea to get a confirmed paid in full letter and to send it to the original creditor to make sure they update your credit report correctly.

ford 1.3 hcs"ohv" 1.4 cvh 1.6+1.8 16valve zetec

use the key. put it in the lock. turn. congrats. you opened the trunk.

If your trunk lock doesn't work which is common, the release is at the left side of the driver's seat on the floor right next to the gas door release. My trunk lock is hopelessly dead so I can only use the inside release

can a ford f150 seat fit in my 1978 ford f100 custom truck

( Yes ) do a Google search " 1993 Ford Bronco pictures "

76,125 seats are present in the stadium.

The Broncos sell out each and every game they play.

Depending on the number of playoff games (if any) that will be played in a given year, the number of people purchasing tickets will also change.

Since the Broncos sell every seat for every game they ever play, they sell 76,125 per game.

If the eng is a 5.0L it is located behind the eng middle to the left I also strongly recommend changing the P.C.V screen located just under the valve you will need a angle pick to remove it If the eng is a 4.6L the valve is located on the RT valve cover.

My '89 behaved this way when the distributor "Hall Effect" magnetic pickup was in the process of failing. Next time it happens pull a plug wire and check for spark. If there is no spark it could be a failing distributor.

The throttle position sensor on a 1995 Ford Bronco is located on the throttle body. It detects how far the accelerator has been pressed.

largest size recommended is 31 - 10.5 - r15 31" tall 10.5" wide 15" rim

Remove headlight switch knob. Remove trim at the bottom of upper portion of dash to reveal TORX screws holding dash trim panel on. (this is tricky, you will need to bend something, maybe a paper clip or the like, to fit behind those trim pieces and pull straight out - it will fight you) Remove TORX screws, then remove upper dash panel (you may need to disconnect electric 4x4 switch, if equipped), revealing gauge cluster. Remove TORX screws holding guage cluster - not the ones holding the lens. Remove entire gauge cluster and find bulbs on back - 1/4 turn will remove each bulb socket - change as req'd. Reassemble in reverse order.

take two screws out of outer side of lense. Drop tail gate take two more screws out of in side edge of lense. Remove tail light asembly grasp the wire at the rear of the housing and turn 1/4 turn remove bulb. Reverse steps above for instalation.

To begin with, it's a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve and it should be in line with a hose leading from the engine to the Air Mass Meter box (near the air filter). It might help to know what it looks like, so you can recognize it, and this link should help. http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?N=11370+1684+4294967266+6884

Tap on your 1995 Ford brake rotors with a hammer or mallet?æto loosen them. Slide the rotors off. Reverse the process to install your new brake rotors.