Ford Contour

find it then remove it from its socket and then put anew one in its place.

you either rip it off or get a sluge hammer and break it off

You'd have a hard time getting a hammer where you could get any force on a Ford 4x4, driver-side axle bumper, and you don't want to remove the coil spring and shock to do it, so, I took s large crescent wrench, gripped the old bumper and slowly and painfully turned it out. On mine the bumper is threaded into the frame, not on a separate nut. Be prepared to bark your knuckles and swear softly if there are children or wives present.

Check your fuel filter.

it would be easier to answer if one knew what was meant

Defective resistor pack.

(For Zetec 2.0L) Set parking brake, jack up car on front driver side. Remove Drivers side front wheel. Crawl under car by firewall. Look up on transmission (mid vehicle), you should see the bottom of the VSS as it screws into the top of the transmission - loosen VSS (turn 1/4 turn). Open hood, Disconnect neg cable from battery (safety first) remove 3 long bolts holding down air intake over throttlebody. Unclip air filter top cover. Disconnect MAF connector. Lift off entire top air assembly, disconnect IAT sensor from under intake tube by MAF and put whole assembly away. You need to remove the rest of the Airbox, close to the firewall is a rubber band O ring holding down airbox, unhook. Then Pull up on airbox. You need to pull hard, it is held on by pins that push through rubber donuts on each side of the box. When it comes off it'll make a huge pop and you'll swear you've broken something - you likely haven't. (It's super easy to put back, just push down - hard to remove though). With airbox off, you will see large wire harness, follow it back - as it reaches under the brake booster and throttlebody, you will see a small offshoot with a connector - that is the VSS connector. Even though it's fairly easy to see it's a PITA to unhook. One-handed shennanigans, and some cursing required. Some small hands or really long needle nose pliers would help. Be careful, don't mess up the harness/connector side. When it's disconencted, go back under car and unscrew VSS and pull up. Then install new VSS. Reconnect nrew VSS to harness connector - hard again but not as bad as disconnecting. Then put everthing back together in reverse. Then wash bloody knuckles.

under the dash, behind the radio

Well I only have experience on a 2.0 4 cyl

what engine are we speaking of?

There is a relay that is needed. I have the same problem and Its about 10.00 to get relay, depending on where you go.

This is not the Ford Contour page this is the Escort Page.

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On a 1998 Ford Contour :

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is located in the drivers

footwell behind the kick panel ( there is an access hole )

* the kick panel is the interior trim panel , in front of the front door , beside the drivers left foot

It's fuel injected so there is no carburetor

well it does not have marks.you use a cam aline tool .the cams have slots in the ends of the cams.the tool looks like a straight edge 6inch long flat of metal.you stick the tool in the slots of the cams .after you set your crank to top dead center.to get this extact on zero you must screw a timing peg in the crank.the hole of it is behind the exhaust manold.which you will have to remove to get to the peg hole.a bolt is screwed in block in the front of the engine.you will have to remove the bolt.then screw the peg in the hole after you set the stroke on zero.you then set the cams with the cam aline tool i was talking about .its ready to put your time belt etc on.after you are done with all of this. remove the peg and cam tool and put the bolt back in the block.etc.i have done this engine before myself.

I have the same question i need to find the Relay... anybody have any idea where it is located?, its outside both fuse boxes i know that much, no idea where from there. Thanks

The 2.0 liter four cylinder is ( 125 horsepower ) and the 2.5 liter V6 is ( 170

horsepower )

A Ford dealer near Detroit says that the part is discontinued, but that some dealers still have them in stock.

Had same problem with 1998 ford contour gl. Replaced transmission range sensor and problem stopped.

usually means you have a turn signal bulb in the front or rear burnt out.

You're talking about the the marks on the timing gears Right? Because the timing gears have little marks on them. The top gear should have the mark at the 6 o'clock point(down on the bottom), and the smaller lower gear at the 12 o'clock position(up to the top). And these two marks should be lined up with each other.

4 cyl or 6 cyl? Either way it goes it's a harry job. You have to remove your intake manifold, and heads to get to the has gaskets. Parts are cheap, but labor is usually an arm and a leg. If the car has overheated because of the had gasket going bad, repair shops have to send the heads to a machine shop to be re-surfaced.

nothing

THE REAR STRUTS HAVE NYLON BUSHINGS WHERE THEY MOUNT TO THE FRAME, AFTER A FEW YEARS THE NYLON HOLES WHERE THE BOLT GOES THROUGH GET WORN OUT AND THE STRUTS START SLAPPING UPK AND DOWN WHEN HITTING ROUGH ROADS. MINE WERE DOING THE SAME THING, I REPLACED THE STRUTS AND THAT TOOK CARE OF THE PROBLEM. struts mine did the same thing Answer I had this problem on my '98, I replaced the struts but that did not take care of the problem, what it ended up being was the rear sway bar mounts had been worn and loosened enough to create this problem.

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the diagram ) can be viewed on-line

It's on the verge of vapor lock.

.050

On transmission by where one of the axles attaches to it.

My Haines book says it's on top of the trans mission just under the mass air flow sensor. You have to remove the ducting & M.A.F.Sensor to get to the speed sensor but removing the speed sensor looks tricky.