Ford Contour

Contour rugs are those u-shaped bath mats that fit around your toilet.

I was looking at fordparts.com and for the 1995 Ford Contour 2.0 liter four

cylinder it shows ( Motorcraft RT-1150 , a 190 * F thermostat )

I have a '95 Contour. Firstly, there isn't a drain plug for the radiator. Sorry. But you can drain your radiator and coolant reservoir. When looking at your coolant reservoir or expansion tank, there will be two hoses that come out. One top and one bottom. Follow the bottom hose down to a conjunction of 3-4 hoses. There will be a hose that exits the bottom of the conjunction and runs under the car going towards the back of the car. It will be a fairly large hose with a hose crimp on it. undo the crimp and slide it back and CAREFULLY pull the hose off the tube. It will probably blast straight into the frame so be prepared. After letting all the fluids drain, You can reconnect the hose and run a radiator cleaner or a radiator flush through your radiator using your expansion tank. I would advise while you have everything drained, disconnect the two hoses from the reservoir and unbolt it from under the hood, and then clean it out. When I did it, it looked like a mix of mud and sludge coming out. Sorry for the long answer, but hopefully it's thorough and helps someone out.

100amp

I would not recommend using any single-weight motor oil in any modern car engine. They are designed with much closer tolerances than older engines, and they need the ability of multigrade oils to flow easily when cold to provide proper lubrication quickly when started. Single grade oils are too sluggish, especially in cold weather, to provide this protection. Use the grade oil Ford recommends for the car.

Note that, if your engine is already using oil excessively and you have to add oil several times between changes, it's pretty much a matter of economics at that point. The engine already needs overhaul: the additional wear caused by cold-starting with single weight oil won't change that. However, if your engine doesn't burn oil, using a cheaper oil is a false economy.

I strongly recommend the use of a good synthetic oil!

ford usually uses 6" or 5"x7"

The key code number is generally on the drivers door key barrel, if this is too hard to take off also check the trunk lid key barrel it can sometimes be found there too, possible on any of the other key barrels too, but I have only checked drivers door and trunk lid key barresl and found it.

While there is an external similarity, the ultimate answer is no. Jaguar used a 5-speed automatic made specifically for their car, while the Contour trans is a 4-speed. Since the transmissions are computer controlled, the computer in the Jag wouldn't know how to deal with the Contour, or any other, transmission. Your best bet is to try to find a good Jag trans in a wrecking yard.

Start here:

Do you hear the pump run when you turn the key?

Are you getting spark to the plugs?

Has the fuel pump reset button (drivers side kick panel) been reset?

What is the actual fuel pressure? just because the pump is new doesn't mean it's good.

Bad pressure regulator?

Is the PCM opening the injectors? bad cam/crank sensor

If it just started after the thermostat was changed either it was put in backwards or it is not operating properly. GoodluckJoe

was told by a person that experienced the same problem...says that the cars will not overheat when idling no matter how long...only when driving.... says the problem is a bad bottom radiator hose..changed his and doesn't have the problem anymore.

Definitely can. When I replaced mine due to over-heating, I found the plastic impeller had broken up. Your best indication for this sort of failure (including a broken water pump belt) is whether or not you have heat from your heater. No heat = no flow. However, that doesn't rule out a plugged rad or collapsed hose. If the lower rad hose feels very spongy at any point along its length, this could indicate the hose has collapsed internally (the inner hose wall can separate from the hose mesh between the inner and outer walls and collapse during engine operation). Lower hoses often have a light gauge wound spring in them to prevent this and you should be able to detect this. I replied to a question on how to change a water pump for a 1995 V6 that may help you.

OK, my own experiences in this matter, found the following: Thermostat was newer, water pump impellers looked great, hoses seemed OK. Turns out these cars are know for blowing head gaskets. The engine was overheating, and I was getting no heat out of my vents. I was adding water to the overflow like crazy. When I pulled my head gasket, it didnt have any major signs of blow out. Replaced it anyway, and that was the problem. Now the car runs cooler than ever (Temp at "R" in normal). Make sure you replace the Head bots with new ones if you have to do a head gasket replacement (as they are Torque to spec, meaning 1 time use). It really is a PITA to tear into this, many things have to be taken apart to get the head off. Take your time, and do it right.

If you do have to replace your water pump, replace the timing belt as well (as this is another issue with these vehicles)

Probably easiest to pull the driveaxel and take the alternator out that way

this isn't something you want to do yourself its probly best to have a mechanic do it

Front of engine. It's belt driven and has a lead to the battery so that should help you.

30 days. If your plates expire in Jun 2012, then on Aug 1st you are subject to penalty.

Your battery is weak, or your your alternator is not charging battery.

There could be a sensor wire that is bad or going bad

The starter on a 98 Ford Contour SE is changed by disconnecting the battery, jacking the vehicle up, and removing the starter shield. The retaining bolts and bracket can then be removed, the wires disconnected, and the starter removed.

Vacuum leak. Replace all vacuum hoses under the hood. Replace one at a time as to not get confused.

Vacuum leak. Replace all vacuum hoses under the hood. Replace one at a time as to not get confused.

I have a 1996 ford fiesta lx which had its fuel filter cleaned about a month ago...it was getting sluggish, low revs and the engine would cut out and come back on.

Didn't have any problems after it was cleaned - felt much smoother to drive, better revs and no cutting out! Until today...my drives to work are only short (5 mins) so the engine always stays fairly cool. Was driving around a lot today, only local driving at 30mph. Was probably driving round for about 2 hours or maybe more and I noticed the driving started to feel a bit judderish and sluggish. i also noted the engine was getting warmer as it came off the cool mark and then again..the engine cuts out 3 times on my drive home but i had to stop this time to restart the car. I only noticed it had cut as the dashboard lights came on. The engine also sounded a bit strained...it was really working to get up into 2nd gear which I thought was weird. Any ideas?!?!

they will be much appreciated!!!!

NOT on the drivers side. Unless it's a Right Hand Drive vehicle.

All Ford V8's are as follows: AS SITTING IN THE CAR, the # one cyl is right front.

If I am correct it should be behind the drivers side or passenger side wheel base behind the finders in the front covered by the plastic guards behind the front tires.

Goto autozone .com and look in repair info

Luckily, all spark plugs are available without removing the intake manifold. Tools you will need are:

ratchet set6"-9" extention 3/8" drive (6" with an added 3" drive will work just as good)sparkplug socket

First start out by removing the black plastic cover over the front intake manifold, there are three cap screws that you must remove using your ratchet set. This will expose three of the six spark plugs and respective wires.

Next, follow the spark plug wires back to where they attach to the coilpack, note the other three spark plug locations just under and forward of this coilpack, there are your other three spark plugs.

It should be pretty much self explanitory from here on out, but just remember it is easiest to do one wire and plug at a time, so as to match up the wire with the correct size and avoid dealing with the possibility of matching up the coilpack with the wrong spark plug, then your car will definitely not want to run.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need more help.

Seneca Johns

the factory defalt setting cannot be chandged and will always work, even though you add an additional code of you preference. here are the steps. # Enter the permanent factory remote keyless (RKE) keypad code # Press the 1/2 button within 5 seconds to activate the programming mode # Holding the 1/2 button for more than 2 seconds after activation erases the stored personal code # Within 5 seconds, enter the new 5-digit RKE keypad code. The door locks lock and unlock to confirm the new code is programmed. Entering any new personal code automatically erases the old personal code