Ford Contour

Simon from Montreal

The camshaft sensor is located at the back of the head on driver side. Remove the wire,unscrew the sensor,screw the new sensor in the head and put the wire back on the sensor.Pretty easy job!

Mike From Des Moines

The camshaft sensor is not in the back on the 98 4 cyl its right in front. All you need to do is take off the 3 bolts on the top of the heat shield and pull it back a bit and it will be right there.

From what I've seen on the web and in my Haynes manual (I do Own a 95 Contour, 4-banger)

The Zetec engine is a non-interference engine. Meaning you won't wreck the engine's head if the timing belt goes...

But, just to be on the safe side, have it replaced. When they had to do my water pump (driven by the timing belt), I had them change the belt, along with the tensioner pulley, just to be on the safe side.

The OEM recommended tire pressure is listed in your owners manual, and on the drivers door post, or another location, such as the glove box, trunk, console, etc. If you look you will find it.

Ther is no such fluid get new clutch if its having problems

I have a '95 Contour but I'm sure it's the same for a '96. Firstly, there isn't a drain plug for the radiator. Sorry. But you can drain your radiator and coolant reservoir. When looking at your coolant reservoir or expansion tank, there will be two hoses that come out. One top and one bottom. Follow the bottom hose down to a conjunction of 3-4 hoses. There will be a hose that exits the bottom of the conjunction and runs under the car going towards the back of the car. It will be a fairly large hose with a hose crimp on it. undo the crimp and slide it back and CAREFULLY pull the hose off the tube. It will probably blast straight into the frame so be prepared. After letting all the fluids drain, You can reconnect the hose and run a radiator cleaner or a radiator flush through your radiator using your expansion tank. I would advise while you have everything drained, disconnect the two hoses from the reservoir and unbolt it from under the hood, and then clean it out. When I did it, it looked like a mix of mud and sludge coming out. Sorry for the long answer, but hopefully it's thorough and helps someone out.

A wiring diagram will just show you where they are in the wiring circuit so it would be best if you got a FACTORY shop manual from E-bay or MOTORLIT.COM. It will show a picture of them and describe how each works.

well the part alone, aftermarket, should cost around $50 or so, depends on what you get, and the labour might be an hour, i dont see it taking long than that. now the price always depends on which shop you take it to. some shops charge 50 bucks and hour, some charge 109 bucks an hour, catch my drift.

shop around good luck

something is wrong in the transmission. It will have to be diagnosed. You probably have a bad shift solenoid in the tranny.

4x108

Near the fuse panel, on the drivers side wall under the steering column behind a panel labeled FUEL-SHUT OFF SWITCH.

First thing is to check the timing belt if it is a 4 cylinder model. These are notorious for a slapping or clunking noise as the belt gets a bit loose. This is esp true if the belt has been changed as the spring loaded belt tensioner is anstalled at that time(not used from the factory). Once again I cannot emphasize enough that people need to buy a good Manual for their car as it answers most of their questions.

This is how I did it. Its only an idea and if you not comfortable doing this HAVE IT DONE at a repitable shop.

I just changed my AC clutch in my 97 Ford Contour. I have a 4 cyl. DOHC 16 valve engine. You need to raise the car on the passenger Sid, support it with a jack stand, remove the tire and the Splash cover. I also removed the splash cover in the front of the car and the inner fender cover to be able to get to the ac clutch a little easier.

You Need Snap ring Pliers, and a couple of screw drivers or pry bars.

You will need to remove the Belt to the power steering and AC, 1- belt on the 4 cyl model.

It wasn't to bad took me 6 hours. The AC clutch comes in 3 parts. There is an outer pick ring this drives the compressor. An inner Pully assemble with a berring in it, and the %$#@^ Magnetic clutch actuator. The Reason I said %$#@ actuator is because I should not have removed it, it was a pain in the ( | ) to beat back on, and its just an electric magnet, it was fine.

When you remove the outer Clucth pick up ring, be very very careful when you pull it off as there is a spacer (looks like a washer) in the pick up ring where the bolt goes through. YOU WILL NEEED TO MATCH THIS SPACER to the new ones you will get and you will get more then one. The spacing is very Important for releasing and engaging the AC Clutch. Once you remove the Outer AC clutch pick up bolt wiggle the piece off and FIND The SPACER if it had one(Its in the pickring center). You will Now need SNAP Ring pliers remove the snap ring holding in the Pulley assemble.

Once you get the snap ring out, Be very careful and using 2 screw drivers or short pry bars pry on the left and right side of the pully assembly from the compressor side of the unit. If you pry the very outer edges, it should slide off, (very tight fit) With out disturbing the Magnetic acuator ring. Once you get it off, you can decide weather or not you want to try and take off the Magnetic pick up ring. I MADE THE MISTAKE of removing it.

If you do decide to remove the Magentic ring, you will have to use the old pulley and beat the old berring out of the pulley to use the old pulley to install the new Magnetic pick up ring. It was a pain in the ( | ) to beat the new magnetic ring on a little at a time first left then right. Once the ring is almost seated you will need to turn the pully arounfd and use the back side against the magnetice oick up ring to get it fully seated back on the compressor.

Once the Magnetic ring is on or if you were smart enough not to remove it you need to put the New pulley assembly on and get it seated. I used 3 old Strut washers and a longer bolt to slowly tighten the new pully assembly on. This worked all the was up to 1/4 of an inch then I noticed the AC compressor was turning. So Using the OLD Outer pick up ring with No spacer in it I tightened it against the New pulley assemble Useing a screw driver to hold against the little circle thingys on the outer ring and I sent the new Pully assembly home. CHECK THEN ALIGNMENT OF THE AC PULLY WITH the CRANK SHAFT PULLY, use the belt to make sure they are inline (with in reason these ain't't racing motors)

Them I removed the old Outer ring and installed a New Snap ring to hold the pulleys in place. The Snap ring should go on no problem if it doesn't its not seated enough and this will mess up yer belts send the pully assemble on more if the snap ring does not seat.

Once done with the snap ring and pully, NOW YOU MUST MATCH THE OLD SPACER to A NEW SPACER. This is important so the AC clutch has room to engage and disengage. The new clucth came with 6 different thickness washers, I picked the one that looke like the old one to me, and it worked fine. Eye them up, you don't need a micrometer to match them, you will be able to see the difference. Once you've picked your spacer drop it in side the shaft end of the new Outer clutch ring. Using the new bolt that came with the kit put it threr the hole to hold the spacer and put the outer ring back on the ac compressor.

Put the belts back on and assemble the car and Fire it up.

, Most of my time was spent figuring out how I was going to get that $^%&%%^$%$^%^%^$^$ Magnetic ring back on the compressor in such a small space to work. I did so it is possible, its slow and steady using the old pulley assemblt with out the berring in it, and beating it with a hammer and my 12 inch (1/2 drive) extention bar. (ping ping ping... my ears are still ringing)

But when your done, you wife will kiss you full on the mouth, greese and all.

It is located on the front valve cover under the cover that says "duratec 24v dohc"

Since you are asking, I assume you have a V6 Duratec powered contour.

If this is the case, the IMRC is located just in front of the engine, underneath the IMRC cover, the plastic cover mounted to the engine with several screws and says "Duratec" on it.

I was looking at the 1998 Ford Contour Owner Guide and the drawing shows

that the fuse box is in the lower part of the dash , behind the left side of the steering

wheel

and if you move a lock lever the fuse box tips down from the dash for access

Ever hear the expression "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing?" No truer words were ever spoken if referring to air bags. For a list of codes and meanings, see http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=29. Your problem may only be a fuse. Keep in mind that if you set off an air bag (and don't injure yourself in the process) expect a hefty repair bill. Insurance companies will sometimes write off an older car involved in a minor collision because the air bag went off, whereas otherwise they would repair it. In my locale, I could expect to pay $1000 for a professional replacement. Good luck.

could be a bad plug

If it is an automatic, that is most likely the transmission breather tube, which prevents pressure from building up in the transaxle as the oil heats up and expands.

The tube itself should remain vertical, and clip up under the battery tray.

Passenger side,underneath about 20"in front of rear tire,use a flat screwdriver

to remove the retaining clips connected to the filter,before doing it,don't forget to disconect the negative cable at the battery.open the tank filler cap to release some pressure.(manual says to despressurize the system), I always do it this way. never have a problem.good luck.

the battery is dead and needs to be charged or replaced, or it could also be the alternator is going bad

Leaking, clogged, or incorrectly installed power steering hose; Leaking or damaged power steering pump (reservoir); Transmission fluid loss from leaking transmission seal (at firewall).

White exhaust Smoke could also be from: Worn or broken piston rings; Cracked or brittle valve stem seals allowing oil to enter combustion chamber; Rich fuel injector; Plugged or damaged pcv valve; Worn or scored cylinder block (engine); Worn or damaged piston; Worn valve guides.

Missouri does not have a grace period for expired license plate tags. A vehicle cannot be driven with expired license plates. There will be a $15 penalty the when the plate is renewed.

It has to be leaking from somewhere if not hoses,try to locate what area the leak is coming from,could be numerous things from heater core,radiator,intake,head gasket,etc.