Ford Escort GT

The 1.8 is not a zetec. But just use any oil, Castrol synthetic being the best. Now that's thinking with your dipstick, Jimmy!

On a 1998 Ford Escort :

Open the drivers door and on the latch pillar you will see an information

sticker . One of the things the sticker shows is the original size of tires on

the vehicle from the factory

Improper fluid level. Transmission shift cable broken or misadjusted. Improper band/clutch application pressure. Fluid filter damaged or plugged. Main control assembly gaskets damaged or bolt out of torque. Main control separator plate damaged. Pump assembly bolts out of specifications. Reverse clutch burnt, worn, or leaking. Direct/reverse servo piston seal cut/leaking. Probably lost the reverse clutch.

The only special tool you need is a steering wheel pull. You can usually get a loaner from the parts place. To take the steering wheel off first you need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for 5 minutes to disrupt the current to the airbags so they won't blow on you. Then, you take the horn button loose and disconnect the wiring to it. Then pull the airbag off by taking 2 bolts off the back of the steering wheel. Then disconnect the wiring to the air bag. Mark the position of the steering wheel on the shaft so you can get it back on straight. Then put the puller on the steering wheel and pull it off. Piece of cake!

Yes sir, they come stock on all 1.9 EFI HO from 87-90

Okay, we changed the headlights today - it took us about 3 hours (2 people, and I'm a girl lol - and we spent a long time figuring out which bolts held what). The hardest part was removing the bumper - we only took off 1 side (driver's). You have to start by taking off part of the black plastic cover from the inside of the wheel, below the fender (just enough so you can slide it further behind the wheel to give you room to access the bolts inside and under the bumper). There are 3 bolts and 1 screw to remove to do this. Next, if you shine a flashlight inside under the bumper, there are 2 bolts, one above the other, INSIDE the bumper right below the corner of the headlight. Remove those as well. There is also a third bolt to remove around that area, easy to figure out - it attaches the bumper to the frame of the car. Next, look under the car itself - there's another one to remove there. With those taken out, almost the whole bumper will slide off (from the side where you removed the bolts almost all the way to the other side). There isn't anything holding it in place other than those bolts, found on both sides. Only remove one side - you'll still be able to access the other headlight without having to remove the other bolts - just slide the bumper forward.

The headlights themselves have only 4 bolts holding them in place: 2 on the top, 2 on the bottom. remove those, unplug all the cables (3) and slide out the headlight. Now you just have to do the opposite when putting in the new one. Do the same with the other side, screw everything back into place and you're done!

This could easily be done in 2 hours, give or take a few minutes. Once that bumper was out of the way, it took about 15 mins to remove and re-insert new headlights. Good luck!

Kat

buy a new starter or go to a junk yard and find another one and replace it

if the key keeps spinning you probably need a new lock and tumbler (you can pick them up at a local auto parts store).

If auto through the dipstick tube If std. through plug in side of trans

One way is to just disconnect the negative cable from your battery for a minute. But remember it will take anywhere from 10 to 50 miles of driving to bring all the sensors and systems info. back into the computer. :)

It's on the back of the alternator

you don't the computer sets it from the crank sensor

Should be the same fuse for parking/tailights

Hi Depends if there's an airbag in the wheel or not. If there is an airbag, taking the wheel off is the LAST thing you want to do. Ideally, when you look underneath the plactic cowl around the indicator stalk you should see some bolt holes. If you pull the bolts you should be able to separate the plastic shroud around the indicator stalk. If there's no airbag (and please make sure first eh?) removing the steering wheel would give better access, and it is just a matter of reaching in with a deep socket, although it might be a beehatch to hook the horn back up, I don't know. Phil

Check with your local parts store, they should be able to print out a diagram for you.

The battery will explode.

This will be quite a list. These things one would find low pressure when checking with a gauge; fuel pump going out ( not pumping high enough pressure ), fuel pump relay or fuse failure ( no gas reaches injectors ), clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator, inoperative pressure relief valve at tank ( vapor lock ) or leaking fuel line or fitting. These things could cause a lean mixture and one would test with a volt or ohm meter according to directions in the repair manual or from check engine codes; O2 sensor, MAF sensor, throttle position sensor, idle control valve, air flow sensor. Another problem could be with your ignition control unit or on board computer.

engine burning oil( white or blueish exhaust smoke ), water in oil, oil in water, water in exhaust.

Yes. Of course you can. I recommend going to Walmart of or any other store that sells car stereo do it yourself products and buy a wiring plug for that year of car. You match up the wires on one end of plug to factory wires under dash and then match up wires from back of CD player (stereo plug) to the wires on the other side of plug. Then connect the plugand insert player. The factory wires will not match up to the wires from stereo plug and can be confusing (because for example there are 5 factory wires that you will need to match to the 3 stereo plug wires just to get power to the deck) and this way you won't accidentally hook wrong wires up and possibly fry your deck or cause a short in the car's electrical system.

It's all the way in the back if you open your hatch it right under the speaker in the rear right side...if this help you any .....

It is the amplifier enable - turn on wire. Basically if the radio comes on power (voltage) goes on this wire to tell the amplifier to come on. And the amp is under the driver's seat.

Free if you go to the right mechanic

Hey Rich==The idle speed solonoid is pprobably to blame. Take it off of the throtle body and clean it with carb cleaner. Also clean th inside of the throtle body where the throtle plate is as a carbon ring forms there. Goodluck Joe I had a similar problem and the PCV tube was punctured. $20 part at a ford dealer and you can replace it yourself. I too had this problem and the PCV tube was cracked and collapsed. Replaced and all was well. I also had this problem, with my 1996 wagon.. problem was a cinked PCV hose, was very cheap, and easy to replace. Fixed the problem ;)

A visual check of the oil can tell sometimes. Oil should not look brown, milky or have bubbles in it. Sometimes excessive smoke from the exhaust can be a sign. Excessive coolant consumption and a lack in power might be another sign. Another more involved way is a compression check on all the cylinders. That will tell you if there is a leak from the combustion chamber and which cylinder/cylinders.

16.9 gallon tank

Simply remove the screws holding it on and take it of.