Ford Escort GT

Should be a label on either the door jambs or the fuel filler door Its not on the fule door but the door jamp, drivers side I believe, bbut maybe the other. If the door jamb label is missing (from body work or something) then what it says is 30 psi all the way around. However, rememeber, that is based on the OEM tire size on the OEM 1988 GT Alloy Wheels which is 195-60-R15 87T. If you change that equipment (or it has been changed) then a different pressure may be called for. I personally tend to inflate a pound or two more than the 30 as I got just as good wear and traction and performace (depending on tire brand and quailty, it varies greatly) but also a little better mileage and less time being under-inflated when I didn't check it enough. Plus, a couple extra PSI can really make the difference of not harming the rims or the tire side walls (when you hit a pot hole or whatever) when you are running low profile tires which is what the 60 refers to (65 and lower tend to be considere low profile and oit gos pretty low, down to even 35 and 40 for some real high perfomace super wide tires.

There are some clues. First and most obvious is that you are loosing coolant with no apparent leak. Other clues are a sweet smell from the exhaust, coolant in the oil, and the oil level above full. An engine miss or running rough with a loss of power. A foamy substance on the underside of the oil fill cap. Air bubbles escaping from the radiator, and of course last but not least the engine is overheating. A blown head gasket can destroy and engine in short order. Have this looked at immediately.

I have a 93' escort GT and the voltage regulator is actually part of the alternator (all one piece). I had to replace the whole thing. But if yours is a 2 piece, it would be bolted on the outside of the alernator.

You must first remove the instrument panel,then remove all the screws that hold the top of the das on, then you will see you speakers. It is a lot to go threw, but i just did mine and it worked out ok.

Cheers

The EJ251 is an interference engine. All EJ engines built by Subaru after 1996 are interference-based.

No you can not. You will have to remove the gas tank.

remove the speedometer cable where in enters the tranny and that is where you check/fill

Chevy and GMC chevy and gmc r the same trucks ur forgettin DODGE

Inside the trunk/hatch-back, along the trunk lining wall, look in the corners & you should find a little door/covering in each corner. There will be a little hole type of spot 2/3 of the way down the little door/covering, put your finger in it and pull up & out on the door until it pops off (you might want to use a screw driver or something to pry it off because hole is sort of at a weird angle). Look inside the opening & you will see 3 round plastic plugs (probably white colored) sticking out with a bunch of small colored wires going to the plugs. Twist each plug to the left (approximately 1/4 - 1/2 turn) until it releases. To remove the bulb push down gently & turn to left until bulb releases, then pull bulb straight out. Then repeat previous directions in reverse to reassemble.

NOTE** Turn headlights on when looking for the plug/bulb that needs to be replaced, then once you locate which of the 3 plugs/bulbs is burned out one, turn headlights off & then replace bulb.

It's at the front of the engine. The engine sits sideways in the engine bay. The front is looking towards the engine from the right front fender. The crank sensor is at the

10 O'clock position of the crankshaft pulley. It is a rounded sensor pointing towards the teeth on the backside of the crank pulley. It picks up a magnetic signal from the crank pulley and turns it into about a 2 volt sending signal to the computer. Due to the low voltage it is good to check and clean all the wiring on the crank sensor with carburetor cleaner or alcohol.

Depends on the car. But it can do a few things, turn off the fuel pump for a few min. crank and start the engine but not keep it running for very long. just crank the engine.

Some possibilities include: faulty or dirty MAF sensor, fuel pressure regulator, or the torque converer solenoid.

The timing on the 1.9L escorts are controlled by the onboard computer and CANNOT be adjusted.

look at the gearbox under the car there should be a bolt on the side undo it whack the stuff in till it starts pourein out. Actually this is true on most cars, but the escort is different. The transmission uses Mercon Auto Trans. Fluid. You take the speedometer drive cable out of the top of the transmission. Add the fluid in through the opening where the VSS and speedometer drive gear went. The proper level is to the top of the drive gear.

The transmission won't downshift when you press hard on the accellerator.

According to your question I am assuming you are talking about the brake caliper. If so take the lid off of the the master cylinder. (where you put the brake fluid.) use your old brake pad and you will need a C-Clamp. Put the C-Clamp in the center of the old brake pad and tighten the clamp until the caliper piston can't go back any further. Put the new brakes on go back with installation. NOTE> DO NOT push the brake pedal while the top of the Master Cylinder lid is off. PUt The lid on then you can hit the brake pedal.

Your car won't start. No electrical items will work (radio, lights, power windows/locks...)

I had this problem on my 97 Escort ZX2. What I found on mine was that the big hoses that connect the air filter tube to the engine were not fully connected and the hose clamp that holds them together was loose. This was causing too much air to be let in, causing that bogging effect when taking off. It would also stall at stop lights and when coming to a complete stop. When I reconnected them and tightened the hose clamp the stalling and the bogging was fixed! Hope this helps, check for those air leaks.

First, disconnect the battery, negative terminal first. Next, pull the horn cover, you may need to remove some screws from the back of the steering wheel or it may just pop out with a little assistance.

Once the horn cover is off it should expose the steering wheel retainer nut. Pull the center nut then use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel from the tapered spline. Note the flat spot on the wheel and the shaft so that you can put it all back together right when you're done.

Remove the dust cover and other incidental parts to expose the turn signal switch. By turning the signal switch one way, you should be able to remove the screw that holds the ignition switch in place. After the screw is removed, the keyswitch should pull right out. Put it all back together in reverse order.

No, but you will damage the warranty and good luck if you get in an accident. It will probably have a negative effect on the airbag.

Why don't you just adjust the angle of the steering wheel. There is a nifty little lever under the wheel that lets you do this.

only 1 exists, and i own it !

First disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 5 minutes for the air bag to disarm itself. Remove the horn pads from the back of the wheel and take the connnectors off. Then take the horn pad off the wheel by taking out the screws in the back. Now the wheel can come off. It will take a steering wheel puller to get it off. A steering wheel pull can be got at the parts store for a deposit. Before you pull it off put a dab of paint on the shaft so you can put it back in the same position.

It would cost around 4,000 dollars.

The manual transmission on a 91 Ford Escort GT is filled with fluid by gently depressing the clutch with the engine off. Fluid is added to the reservoir until the level stops going down.

Only if your alternator is not working properly. If you are always charging your battery, check your alternator belt. That was the solution for my escort, a new $10.00 belt.