Ford Escort

Actually, if the battery is bad it will click or turn over very slowly. If all the electronics work and there is no noise, it is the starter. Take a small hammer and tap very lightly on the starter (sometimes there is a label on the starter, aim there). This is only tempary and you will eventually need to replace the unit. i had this same problem with my ford fiesta the lights and radio still worked but it did not make another sound. it just needs a new battery. hope this is helpfull

Well, you really don't want to repair it. What you need to do is pull the head off, check or have a professional check if it has any cracks in it, If not (if so, you'll need a new head) just scrape, or use a certified foam cleanser to remove old gasket and seal (probably an orange or blue colored silicone), be sure it is clean! Then buy a new gasket (15-40$) and a tube of HighHeat silicone. Although the manufacture doesn't recomend a silicone seal, it does provide some added protection. Take a small ammount of silicone and place it on the ridges which are around the edge of your block (where the head sits) then place the gasket on the block. To provide a better fit, you should lay your new gasket on the trunk of your car in the sun. This will expand the gasket and make it more flexible. The place the head over the gasket. When tightening the bolts, just get each one started first. Then go around and tighten them to the recommended strength(should be an ammount of lbs.), or just tighten them down where they fit snugly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! This will result in a poor seal and will cause another blown gasket. Let the silicone cure overnight, and your finished.

check the timing belt if it has broken or stripped its teeth this would cause a complete breakdown u can check this by removing the cover on the end of the engine.there are electrical issues therse would need checking 2 generally its to do with the earths the earth wires in and around the engine bay if and when they give trouble they can cause a non start.if not you will need to get your car to a garge so they can put it on a diagnostic machine .

There is no starter relay on an Escort. The main battery positive cable goes directly to the starter. A small wire with a clip on it marked s goes to the solenoid. The main battery current to the starter is supplied with this solenoid.

The radio antenna is a fine wire imbedded in the windshield. If your radio doesn't pull in any stations, but you get static then probably the cable came out of the back of the radio. If you recently got a new windshied it may have not had the antenna. You should be an antenna at an auto parts store and install it on the front fender.

If you know nothing about front ends, you need to get the vehicle checked out ASAP by either a friend that knows about cars, or a good shop. Excessively worn tie rod ends & centerlinks have been known to come apart when you least expect them to.

You've realigned the marks, but did you check which piston stroke? The marks will align in two instances, top dead center on the compression stroke, and top dead center of the exhaust stroke. I'd bet money that you've aligned the timing marks to TDC exhaust stroke. That would explain 0 compression in all cylinders. Rotate your crank shaft by itself (leave the camshaft where it is) 360 degrees (one full turn) and you should then by aligned to TDC compression stroke, as it is supposed to be.

It is located on a bracket about 8 or 9 inches above the pedal pad for the brakes...should have an electrical connector plugged into the back end of it. Pending on cruise control the assembly could be plastic or threaded metal as the switch body.

Stu

Louisville KY

It's front wheel drive. It has no wheel bearings. It has a CV axle. What is it doing? AR 04-01-2008 It was my understanding that there were wheel bearings on front wheel drives; Or at least on every other FWD I have owned. (Including my 2003 Lancer GL 4 door) Actually front wheel bearings on a 03 lancer es are pressed in if you are doing them yourself you will need a press and lots of patients you need to remove your wheel brake assembly the remove the steering assembly from the suspension there is a snap ring in the reer holding the bearing in remove this and press the bearing out froom the front to the back then press the new bearing in I needed to machine a tool to press the bearing in as to not ruin the new one best of luck not an easy task

On many cars it was built into the headlight switch, which was a knob on the dashboard, you pull it outward to turn the headlights on, you twist it clockwise to make the dash lights brighter, counterclockwise to dim them.

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lead

turn your blinker of

I am not 100% sure, but, may have a small black foam filter about 2cm square in the main air filter housing with a pipe leading down to the face of the engine block (front of engine under manifold). There you should find a small black box bolted to the block, this will receive the hose from the air filter housing. Inside this there will be a valve.This assembly is called the oil separator. All these parts make the PCV valve system (positive crankase ventilation)

To test - clean foam filter with methylated spirits. Remove oil separator and small valve. Valve should rattle when shaken. Flush out valve and separator with Carb cleaner. Check gasket, renew if necessary. Replace in reversal of removal.

It would do no harm to clean your EGR pipe and valve with carb cleaner whilst doing this.

N.B the PCV valve is under the exhaust manifold and access id HARD. So you may want to remove the manifold first.

Buy a haynes manual aswell this will help if you have the older Pulse Air system and not the EGR valve as associated pipe work makes getting to the PCV valve difficult. Hope this help. Not a difficult job, just take care and time.

1. Remove the negative battery terminal.

2. Put a 12 volt bulb in between the cable end and the terminal on the battery.

3. If you are having a drain then the bulb will light up.

4. Watching the bulb pull the fuses one by one.

5. When the light bulb goes out after pulling a fuse this is the circuit that is being drained.

6. If after pulling a fuse the light gets dimmer but doesn't go completely out that means more than one circuit is draining the battery. Continue to pull fuses and put them back in to find the 2nd drain. When the light goes completely out you have found the second drain.

For this diagnostic procedure make sure that everything is turned off on the car including the the dome light that comes on when the door is opened. Make sure the key is in lock and off. Make sure the trunk is shut.

disconnect the battery for a good ten mins

186 60 14. I'm running 165/80r15 Kumhos on my 97 Escort wagon. I found the 15" rims at the local wrecking yard. The tires clear the front strut towers by 1/2". This setup gears up my car 10 percent thus improving gas mileage. The OEM tires are 23" high and these are 25 5/8". you could go with P185/65r15's as well and that would gear you up 5 percent and those are 24" tall.

In order to remove the key ignition switch on Ford's, the ignition must be in the run position and the holding pin depressed. Without the key, a locksmith is your best bet. Keys can be generated by code, try-out keys, the ignition can be drilled and removed, or in worse case, can be forced to the run position. Trying any of these without knowing exactly what you are doing will likely result in damage to column.

Sorry it's probably not the answer you were looking for.

Best Regards

Most Fords require a key to remove the ignition lock cylinder to replace it. HOWEVER the 1995 ingnition assembly can be removed regardless of having a key or not. You have to remove the stering wheel, multifunction switch (can be unscrewed and pulled over steering hub and moved aside without cutting wire ties or disconecting). then remove 4 steering column bolts allow steering column to drop. On top of steering column there is a collar with two rivet looking fasteners holding the lock assembly to the column, these are actually screws. Use a dremel tool with a cutting disk to slot the tops of the screws to allow a standard screwdriver to be used. Out comes the entire assembly and can be replace for about $130 for a new assembly. You can also replace the lock cylinder for about $25, but you have to remove the two roll pins holding it in place, this requires drilling them out and it is a royal pain. I think they are hardened steel, or stainless either way they eat drill bits and time. With a new set up your door keys will be different from the ignition, but without an ignition key to begin with, I would assume you need to replace the door locks also, you can buy a set so at least all of the doors will use the same key.

Remove - battery cable

Raise and support vehicle

Remove wiring at top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

It's the 100 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box by the battery.

If none of the dash lights are working, then it won't be the cluster. You are going to have a problem with one of the fuses, a switch, or wiring. Does it have running/tail lights? If it is just one bulb, then,

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.