Ford Falcon

There should be a dip stick at the back of the motor. But only if its automatic

A 1970 junker would cost around $500 a 1970 1/2 falcon junker would cost about 1,000 dollars. A 1970 fully restored one would cost about 20,000 a 1970 1/2 falcon would be about 25,000 dollars because it is rare.

the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. you can acsess the top of you fuel tank fromm in the boot under the carpet liner and you will have to undo all clamps befor removing lid. an easier alternative is drop the fuel tank out.

1968 ford XL conv. - 6066 units produced.

Robbo

I'm assuming you are talking about a 1968 XL Convertible? I have a 1970 XL convertible and they only made 6400 of them. Answer back.

Shawn

most likely under your overflow tank behind your battery.. it is a grey relay with a yellow and purple wires coming off the side on another relay

If the car came with A/C, it would have had the 3-row radiator and a cooling system capacity of 14.7 Qts. If the car did not come with A/C, it would have come with the 2-row radiator and the cooling system capacity would have been 13.4 Qts.

Loosen the bolts holding the alternator in place and then loosen the bolt on the bracket with the slot. Slide the alternator down the slot until the belt is loose enough to remove. Install the new belt and the slide the alternator back until the belt is tight. Now you need to set the belt deflections. When free span is less than 12 inches between pulleys, belt deflection should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch. When free span is longer than 12 inches, belt deflection should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Check the deflection by pressing the belt halfway between pulleys. Tighten down all bolts to 30 lb/ft of torque.

The head bolt torque is 90-95 ft/lbs (don't ask me for metric!) However these types of head bolts are "torque to yield", that is they cannot be used/torqued twice. In other words they are single use only!! A full set costs about $35AU trade from Repco, don't go to Ford - you'll pay a small fortune! I have had some success by cracking them back a turn individually + retorquing them to 90 ft/lbs to stop a leaking head gasket, but if you've pulled the head off - don't be a cheapskate + re-use the old head bolts. For the money it's just not worth the risk!

Presume question relates to automatic EFII models and later. The answer is there is none (to prevent unintentional topping-up with wrong fluid type).

To drain fluid: Remove 9 bolts in pan and remove pan carefully. will spill oil if not careful. Remove filter Clean pan inside leaving no traces of water left. Put new filter in Put pan back on. "Plug Type" 1: Put new oil in. Most Fords are recommended to have Valvoline 95LE grade oil. But check with dealership if unsure. Fill it to the plug. put plug in. 2:Run through ALL gears to prime the gears with oil. 3:Recheck and top up oil. 4:Test drive car 5:Check oil level. Level should be at level with plug. "Dipstick Type" Drain oil Clean pan and put new filter in Put pan back on. Same procedure. Run through all gears. Top up level to minimum hot. Test drive car Level should be at Maximum hot. if not just top up going through all the gears again.

You will have to get behind the dash board with a flash light, there is a cilender shaped box behind abunch of wires, just drivers side of the steering colum. It is labled "flasher", you will most likely need a pair of pliers to take it out, it has a red wire and a blue going to it.

I was a Mercedes mechanic. I had a 1987 240 DL Volvo which I gave away with 315,00 miles on it. I don't like multiviscosity oils. I have a 1998 E320 wagon with 140,000 miles and I use Valvoline 40W. I live in Los Angeles.

must CHECK HORN RELAY IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT SEEK A RELAY DIAGRAM BUT FOR MEMORY I BELIEVE IS THE NO. 4 RELAY. I CAN NO GIVE YOU AN ANSWER REGADING THE STEERING WHELL CONTROL.

it's located behind the distributor. it's bolted to the engine block. the middle lead on top of the dizzy goes to the coil pack.

there is a hidden button along the barrel which can only be pressed with the key in the accessory position. find the button, press it in, ussually a small Allen key works fine and pull the key outward. the barrel should come straight out.

WHATEVER you do do not move the key position, if u move from accessory to lock then the whole column is finished

14.7 to 1 is the sweet spot.

Problem with AU (and most cars) is the anti syphoning blockage that will not let a decent sized syphon pipe in. I managed to get around this by using small tubes (In my case, tubes that lock in the mesh for fly screen) I had two running, these trickled out the fuel and took about five hours to completely empty a full AU tank.

there is a circle that unscrews to the left of the heads, to the right of the water tank, that's near the front of the car

Acctually falcons drink water, I have footage of that.

Chain, inside the block.

Acquire a pair of special tools from your local Car Radio Fitter and get some advice at the same time. These tools are just bits of wire,bent into a U shape,and made with little hooks on each end. The tools fit into holes in the fascia panel of the radio, unlock the clips, and then, with the aid of the hooks, pull the whole assembly out of the dash.A certain amount of mean-ness may be required but only after getting some advice about the correct way to insert the tools.

If your Radio installer is not co-operative , talk to a mechanic at your Ford Dealership.

Good luck!

Yes. Your best bet would be to find a donor car with an A/T. If not then, it may get very expensive. You will need a bell-housing, torque converter, transmission & mount, drive-shaft, and all the shift linkage. Of course you can go with a floor shift if you are not trying to keep it stock.

My 96 4ltr AWD gets about 17mpg us gals ( 20 mpg Imp gal ) highway @ 60 mph ( 100km/h)

there is no adjustment. need to get them serviced