Ford Thunderbird

There is not one freeze plug. There many freeze plugs, ususally there are three on each side of the engine block, one in the rear inside the bellhousing, and there is usually one at each end of both cylinder heads. There may be more depending on the engine.

You do not say if it is a manual or automatic transmission. Automatic trans will take mercon V (all ford products that took mercon will now go to mercon V as mercon will no longer be made by ford)

For the older 1980-1982(9th gen) models, there were only manual transmissions For 1983-1986(10th gen) you could get either For 1987-1988(11th gen) both options were also available

1989-1997(12th gen):

Only the Thunderbird SC came with a manual transmission: the Mazda based M5R2 5-speed manual. The Thunderbird base model and Thunderbird LX came with a 4-speed automatic transmission with overdrive: AOD 4-speed 1989-1993 and 4R70W 4-speed automatic from 1994-1997. (There is no 1998 Thunderbird) (Also there is no 5.0 after 1993 as ford went with the new 4.6L Modular engine used in the Mustang.) However, you can use a Mustang or Fairmont/Zephyr V8 as a donor for parts as everything is basically bolt in unless you have the inline 6 cylinder.

It could be your thermosate. But it could be that you have a clogged line or you could also be leeking colant

You'll need a balljoint press . Seperate lower balljoint and bottom strut mounting bolt also the bolt holding it to the frame then press out old and press in new one

first make sure you have coolant in your radiator, and if theres coolant and its still not working check your thermostat it may be stuck shut and not letting water into the engine

behind left headlight in engine compartment

Click on the link below Click on Owner Guides The owners manual ( which includes the fuse panel diagram ) can be viewed on-line

This could be a bad strut or ball joint. If the noise is constant when you drive this is probably the cause. If the noise only happens when you hit a bigger bump/pothole I would check your motor mounts, this was the cause on my thunderbird.

It should be located under the dash, driver's side, near the kick panel.

Look behind the break petal, and there is a little switch that the break petal hits. You need to take that part to the parts house. Get a new one. Hook it back up the same way. Now start your car and see if it will shift. That is the problem most of th time. If all else fails you can take off the shifter cover. Then bend the bar that keep the shifter from shiffing. This is a temporary fix, because the shifter will not lock This can cause damage if driving and the auto is knock into park, reverse, ect.

The rear calipers piston 'screws' down flush, you cannot use a c-clamp to do this. I guess it is part of the park brake design. You can purchase a special tool, or carefully turn it down (don't want to scratch its surface) with needle nose in the two v-shaped grooves. . EFNet/Macgyver0

Open the bonnet. The fuse box is directly behind the passenger side head lamp. Black cover that has a clip to rear and two clips at the front. It is a bit fiddly to get it off but all fairly easy once unclipped

there is a clip on the front of the shifter. pull this out and the outer part of the shifter will come off. next remove the center console. then you can get to the 4 bolts that hold the shifter in place.

the relay for my 1990 for the fuel pump is on the left hand side in the boot near the fuel cut of its on the wall behind the carpet

Assume you mean the seal on the rack and pinion steering??? If that part is leaking power steering fluid, it's because there is an internal, high pressure leak. That type of leak is usually caused by a worn bushing. Once a rack and pinion assembly starts leaking, the only option is to replace it since most people and most shops do not have access to the specialize equipment neessary to rebuild the assembly. It is highly recommended that the assembly be replaced before it wears to the point that metal shavings get into the power steering pump. Once that occurs, you'll need to replace the pump and hoses as well.

The reset button is inside the trunk on the driver's side. You will need to pull off some of the carpeting (Don't worry, it has velcro). You will see the module there on the side. If you want to relieve fuel pressure (like when you replace the fuel filter), unplug the electrical connector from the inertia switch. Then start the engine and run it until it stops. Once you're done working simply plug the connector back into the inertia switch. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE WORKING ON THE CAR. Hope this helps.

its below the steering wheel towards the right, its a litle plug-in

Add a cold air intake. (4-8 hp gain) Change your exhaust. (Mufflers, 6-15 hp gain / full catback system 20-40 hp gain) High performance wires and plugs. (4-12 hp gain) Underdrive pulleys (8-15 hp gain) Super chip (10-20 hp gain)

The electric fuel pump is inside the fuel tank

If it's anything like the Bullet, you just sit the wheel horizontally on something strong with nothing obstructing the spindle underneath and hammer it with a heavy mallet. The spindle will drop through, pushing one of the bearing pieces out with it. Then turn over and tap the second bearing out from the other side.

The OBD Diagnostic Link Connector is located in front seating area, passenger side, under dash, above kick panel, mounted rear of glove compartment.

The baffle that redirects air from one compartment to another is either frozen in that position, or the control for it has a loose or missing connection. In some cars, the baffle is electrically operated, so in that case it could be a bad switch or electric motor.

Just pray for it to come back on mine always does. Also stop slamming on the dashboard.