GMC Safari

check fuse box just behind bonnet lever

2000 GMC Safari tail light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement tail light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the tail light bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

2005

I think your fuel filter may be under the running body edge where the gas lines are on the driver's side. Look under the vehicle in that area near the middle of the van or closer towards the driver's door and look for either a black or silver round inline filter on the fuel lines. If you aren't sure what a fuel filter looks like, go to the parts store and give them your vehicle information year make model, engine size, and have the pulll the filter. If they hand you a round filter it's under the vehicle then. If not, it may very well be inside the fuel tank. Another place to check for it is near your gas tank, sometimes they hide them near there as well. By the way, some inline fuel filters just use regular wrenches to unscrew from the, and some take special fuel line tools to remove them. Your parts dealer can show you the filter and tell you which tools you need. Good luck.

This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder. Tools and Materials Required Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred 2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum Breaker bar, 1/2" drive Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive 4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc. 2-lb. sledgehammer 3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal Torsion bar tensioning tool Penetrating oil, as required Chassis grease, as required High pressure thread lubricant, as required Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired Gloves and eye protection Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack. Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts. With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground. Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants. Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on. Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later. Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set. Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused. Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember. Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt. Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one. When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side). Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart. Remove the tool. Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember. On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember. Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it. Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount. Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach. With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar. Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet. Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled. Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar. From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble. Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember. Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place. Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened. Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt. Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s). Completely lower coach. Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it. ---- I tried and tried to complete this job but because the torsion bar was broken off inside of the cannister I had to cut it apart with an acetelene torch.

1990 cargo van 4.3 motor without air pump belt diagram

is their a factory harness already there ? whether their is or not you can rewire pretty easily,cut both wires going to each fog light leaving enough to reconnect, you'll need a 30amp 4 pin relay the 4 pins would be marked 30/87/85/86 mount your relay under hood with the #30 pin fused with a 20amp fuse and use approx. 12 or 14 guage wire connecting to the +12 aux. battery post or to the battery, dont put the fuse in until all the wiring is complete. run #87 to both fog lights wiring to the wire going to the bulb,the other wire you have coming from the lights would need to be grounded, #86 then would come into your switch their should be 2 wires coming to the fog light switch, same cut both, connect #86 to the one side and the other wire of the switch to the parking light circuit which can be found in the fuse box under the dash, their should be an empty lug available, test with cicuit tester should light when parking lights are turned on and stay on with headlights (be sure not to wire them to the dashboard dimming circuit won't hurt anything lights wont be as bright to be sure simply roll the dash illumination switch if circuit light stays bright your good if the brightness varies - wrong - check another circuit. next #85 needs to be grounded -wired- be sure to tape all cut ends of factory wires - wired this way you can turn lights on/off anytime if you want to as long as your parking lights or on. also if you leave your fog light switch turned on they will also go off when you turn your parking lights off. put your fuse in.

To get to the spark plugs of the Safari Van, the best way to do it is to take off the engine housing in the passenger compartment. There are latches on the sides of the housing, plus two bolts next to the latches, plus there are two nuts down on the floor- you have to really put your head down there to see them. Then there are a couple of braces there as well. Just stack everything outside as you go, so you can put it back together in the same order when you are done. Having a universal joint for your socket will also make getting the plugs out easier. With the cover off you will be able to see all four rear plugs. The front two you can feel, but not see. You can either reach those from inside the van, or from underneath. The spark plugs may also be reached by jacking up the front of the van and removing the front wheels. Then, remove the rubber flaps in the wheel wells. You will probably need new fasteners when you put them back on. They are available at popular auto parts stores like Autozone or Checker.

how do you get the alternator out of a 1995 safari van.I took off the front bolts but still not coming out must i take off the "doghouse"to get access how do you get the alternator out of a 1995 safari van.I took off the front bolts but still not coming out must i take off the "doghouse"to get access

The fuel filter is located under the driverside of the vehicle around the area of the transmission mount to frame and is mounted on the insde of the uniframe rail

Almost always this is the power window motor failing. The window motor is usually NOT available with the regulator aftermarket. You may have to drill out the factory motor rivits if this is the original motor. Common problem on GM Truck type vehicles. Above answer is 100%. I replaced both right and left with motors I bought at Checker Autoparts. I had to drill out the original pop rivets, and I pop rivets to reinstall the new ones. This is a lot easier than trying to use the screws and nuts furnished with the replacements. Have fun!!

Check to see if the parking lights and tailights are working - if not may be a fuse (same circuit)

Several ways: 1) put one rear tire on a jackstand and see if the vehicle will drive off the stand - if so it's locking/limited slip. If not - open. 2) Lift the entire rear end up and w/the tranny in neutral spin one tire by hand. If the other spins the same direction it's a locking diff - if it spins the opposite direction - open diff. 3) Put one rear tire on grass and the other on pavement and floor it. If the one in the grass does all the spinning and you barely move - open. If you put rubber on the pavement - locking. 4) VIN Code will tell you.

More comments: The locking rear axle on the later model Safari/Astro is a "fly weight" locker that works like an open axle until it senses too much speed difference between the two rear wheels. When that happens, there is a fly weight that is thrown outward to lock the rear axles. So, Item #2 above, won't work on this axle if you turn a wheel by hand since you can't get enough speed difference (unless you are Superman). Items #1&3 will work OK, just be careful. Regarding Item #4, the VIN won't tell you about the axle. The easiest way to determine if van has a locker is to look on the RPO code placard on the edge of the passenger front door. If it has "G80" listed, then the van has a locking differential. If no G80 listed, then it is an open axle. By the way, if it has "GU6" listed, the van has a 3.42:1 axle ratio. If it has "GT4" listed, the van has a 3.73:1 axle ratio.

Jack up the rear of the van. Place the gear selector in neutral. Rotate the rear tire by hand. If the opposite tire revolves in the same direction then it is posi. If the opposite tire revolves in the opposite direction then it is not posi.

There is a circuit board that is a part of the wiper motor cover, this will cause the wipers to stop sweeping at times or completely. This can be purchased seperatly from the motor through Dorman, any Carquest Auto Parts store shore be able to help you.

I had an issue that I thought might be the relay switch, it was the connection plug on the frame just under the transmission where it crosses from the drivers side to passenger side. Maybe that is the cause as it was for me.

The Vortec is the GM 4.3L VIN Code "W" engine, the X is the non-Vortec

My suggestion is to take van to autozone and they will pull the trouble code out of memory for free. Then you can go from there.

i have a 1989 safari van . the relay on mine is located on the passenger side beside the heaterfan . look on the very far right side...just above where your feet would go

double sided tape

The fuel filter is located under the vehicle, on the driver's side, just ahead of the rear wheel. It is an inline fuel and can be changed with wrenches (no special tools). If the engine has been run recently, the line will be under pressure. Either release the pressure, or just loosen one of the connections slightly and catch the fuel in a pan.

Try using a higher size fuse you have a short in the wireing

the pump is in side the fule tank drop tank replace pump get a astro van manual

I HAVE A 01 MALIBU AND MY ABS LIGHT IS ON COME TO FIND OUT THAT I NEED NEW ROTORS AND BRAKE PADS ON MY CAR...... I HAD BRAKE PADS PUT ON LAST MONTH BUT THEY WORE OUT QUICK A MALIBU IS NOTHING BUT TROUBLE..... I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE THEFT SYSTEM AS WELL..... the car blow low beeps a couple of times on its own.... also none of the lower buttons on the temp. panel works such as the AC, and rear defrost and the other 2 buttons I'm trying to find out whats wrong with that now b/c i need my ac i live in Hot Georgia

push warning flasher on for ten seconds turn off. my van will do it once in awhile and it works. gmc has a recall on this problem.

Short to Ground Replace fuse with a test light Turn on lights test light will illuminate Check each fixture individually until test light goes out (current flow stops). This will indicate which fixture or wiring is bad. be sure to check parking, tail, and license plate lights also