GMC Safari

I am the owner of a 1998 gmc safari awd van and i am 100% sure that the computer on mine is under drivers seat. Yes under drivers seat mounted to the floor.

I have a 99 4Runner SR5; I believe it is an 18.3 gallon tank, but don't quote me on that. It is at least 18.

It uses Trak II transfer case fluid, GM part number 12378508. The fluid goes in a hole, use a ratchet with an extension to remove it, on the side of the transfer case.

Code 22 on a 1993 Honda Accord means the VTEC oil pressure switch is defective. The most common fix to this error code is simply checking your oil level and fill it back up. If your oil level is good, check the wiring to the pressure switch.

there are bolts on the floor just below the glove box and 2 bolts on the firewall

You can find a complete vacuum hose diagram for your 1994 GMC Safari van in a Chilton or Haynes automobile repair manual. These manuals can be found at most local libraries or purchased at automobile parts stores. These companies also have online resources available for certain make and model vehicles.

check the timing or the distributor or a shaft inside of it. 2) Check the fuel pressure if it is not within the limits it will not start. The 4.3L engine is sensitive to pressure. If it is low even by a few pounds yo umay need to change the fuel pump.

A GMC Safari is one of the vehicles that installed their fuse boxes under the hood. To open it squeeze both sides.

1) Remove two stainless steel scrwes holding the lower marker light assembly.
This allows acces to a bolt you will have to remove.
2) The bolts hold the head light assembly to the truck. The socket size is 9mm
(Canada) U.S. you guess. Remove the four bolts and the head light assembly will
pull out.
Access to the bulbs is now visiable. Just twist out the old bulb and replace.
Reassembly is in the reverse order.


(different poster)-
My 2000 GMC Safari uses the Halogen bulb that inserts into the lense assembly (referred to as the "composite" bulb, and NOT the sealed-beam bulb).

You might be able to replace the bulb without removing the Lens assembly from the vehicle. However, use extreme care not to touch the new bulb-glass, and to insert it 'cleanly' (without touching the bulb-glass against anything) into the headlight lens.

I am right-handed. I opened the hood, made sure the headlights were off, and used this procedure:

Use a flat-blade screwdriver to dislodge the headlight electrical connector from the bulb (very carefully slip the flat-blade screwdriver between the connector and the bulb-base (still in the lens assembly) just enough to 'unlock' it and allow it to be removed from the headlight bulb- be careful not to break the connector).

I stood with my right arm against the car, in front of the lens assembly. I reached-in (for me, the drivers side) with my right hand, grabbed the bulb base, and rotated it counter-clockwise (counterclockwise when facing the back side of the bulb and lens).

Rotate the bulb about 3 'hours' (from the 6 o'clock position to about the 3 o'clock position). My bulb was 'sticky', and is the reason I had to stand as noted above to get enough torq to turn the bulb. The bulb should now be loose in the lense (but don't remove yet).

Note the postition of the bulb and bulb base before removing from the headlight lens assembly (i.e., 3:30 position).

Remove the old bulb. (Though I didn't, it would be a good idea to take a paper towel and wipe around and at the hole in the back of the headlight lens, before proceeding- see the next step below for the reason)

Orient the new bulb to the approx 3:30 position, and carefully and cleanly insert into the headlight lens, touching nothing against the bulb glass. I actually slightly touched the bulb-glass against the edge of the headlight bulb hole when inserting the bulb. There was no grease or oil at this opening, so I don't think it will affect performance/bulb-life. Time will tell...

Rotate clockwise approx. 3 hours (clockwise when facing the bulb from the back side) to lock the bulb in place.

Reconnect the headlight connector.

This worked for me to change out my driver-side bulb. Good luck.

the average gas mileage for 1991 GMCSafari XL van?

I am having the same problem, my issue is a broken vacuum line from the pasenger side of the van to the engine. I am trying to find a diagram so that I can fix it.

Remove the air cleaner assembly (must), remove the top half of the fan shroud (must), remove the top radiator hose (optional). I'm assuming you can figure out how to remove these items in my first sentence. If you can't, no offense, but in my opinion you have no business doing this job to start with. BEFORE you remove the serpentine belt, use a large wrench to unscrew the thermostatic clutch fan assembly from the water pump. If you don't, you will need a special tool (or you can make one as I did) to get the thermostatic clutch fan assembly off the water pump because once you remove the water pump you have no good way to hold the smooth pulley while you remove the fan assembly. This I know from experience. Just in case you don't know, you use a 3/8 ratchet inserted in the square hole of the belt tensioner to loosen the belt while you remove it. The water pump should now be accessable. There are 2 bolts on the left and 2 bolts on the right that hold the water pump to the front of the engine block. After removing the water pump you will need to remove the smooth pulley from the old pump and install it on the new one. Scrape any old gasket material off the engine block around the inlet and outlet where the water pump was mounted. Hope this helps and good luck. chevy astro and gmc safari ....same vehicle Just a note: it's much easier to remove the fan if you do it BEFORE loosening the serpentine belt. The large nut is located on the engine side of the fan. On my '98, the nut loosens counterclockwise if you're facine the engine from the front.

I have a 2000 safari with a 4.3l v-6, and the firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2, with the cylinders numbered as follows; 1 is on the driver's side in the front of the van and 2 is passenger side. 6 is passenger side toward the rear.

Yes

I have a 1992 GMC Safari Van 6 cylinder 4.3L I know that I real did it, but I real need help. if I could get a step by step or how it should go. wich go were an the number on the distributor cap an how the number go

check fuse box just behind bonnet lever

2000 GMC Safari tail light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement tail light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the tail light bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

2005

I think your fuel filter may be under the running body edge where the gas lines are on the driver's side. Look under the vehicle in that area near the middle of the van or closer towards the driver's door and look for either a black or silver round inline filter on the fuel lines. If you aren't sure what a fuel filter looks like, go to the parts store and give them your vehicle information year make model, engine size, and have the pulll the filter. If they hand you a round filter it's under the vehicle then. If not, it may very well be inside the fuel tank. Another place to check for it is near your gas tank, sometimes they hide them near there as well. By the way, some inline fuel filters just use regular wrenches to unscrew from the, and some take special fuel line tools to remove them. Your parts dealer can show you the filter and tell you which tools you need. Good luck.

This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder. Tools and Materials Required Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred 2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum Breaker bar, 1/2" drive Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive 4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc. 2-lb. sledgehammer 3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal Torsion bar tensioning tool Penetrating oil, as required Chassis grease, as required High pressure thread lubricant, as required Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired Gloves and eye protection Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack. Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts. With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground. Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants. Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on. Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later. Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set. Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused. Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember. Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt. Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one. When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side). Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart. Remove the tool. Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember. On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember. Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it. Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount. Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach. With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar. Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet. Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled. Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar. From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble. Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember. Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place. Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened. Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt. Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s). Completely lower coach. Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it. ---- I tried and tried to complete this job but because the torsion bar was broken off inside of the cannister I had to cut it apart with an acetelene torch.

1990 cargo van 4.3 motor without air pump belt diagram

is their a factory harness already there ? whether their is or not you can rewire pretty easily,cut both wires going to each fog light leaving enough to reconnect, you'll need a 30amp 4 pin relay the 4 pins would be marked 30/87/85/86 mount your relay under hood with the #30 pin fused with a 20amp fuse and use approx. 12 or 14 guage wire connecting to the +12 aux. battery post or to the battery, dont put the fuse in until all the wiring is complete. run #87 to both fog lights wiring to the wire going to the bulb,the other wire you have coming from the lights would need to be grounded, #86 then would come into your switch their should be 2 wires coming to the fog light switch, same cut both, connect #86 to the one side and the other wire of the switch to the parking light circuit which can be found in the fuse box under the dash, their should be an empty lug available, test with cicuit tester should light when parking lights are turned on and stay on with headlights (be sure not to wire them to the dashboard dimming circuit won't hurt anything lights wont be as bright to be sure simply roll the dash illumination switch if circuit light stays bright your good if the brightness varies - wrong - check another circuit. next #85 needs to be grounded -wired- be sure to tape all cut ends of factory wires - wired this way you can turn lights on/off anytime if you want to as long as your parking lights or on. also if you leave your fog light switch turned on they will also go off when you turn your parking lights off. put your fuse in.

To get to the spark plugs of the Safari Van, the best way to do it is to take off the engine housing in the passenger compartment. There are latches on the sides of the housing, plus two bolts next to the latches, plus there are two nuts down on the floor- you have to really put your head down there to see them. Then there are a couple of braces there as well. Just stack everything outside as you go, so you can put it back together in the same order when you are done. Having a universal joint for your socket will also make getting the plugs out easier. With the cover off you will be able to see all four rear plugs. The front two you can feel, but not see. You can either reach those from inside the van, or from underneath. The spark plugs may also be reached by jacking up the front of the van and removing the front wheels. Then, remove the rubber flaps in the wheel wells. You will probably need new fasteners when you put them back on. They are available at popular auto parts stores like Autozone or Checker.

how do you get the alternator out of a 1995 safari van.I took off the front bolts but still not coming out must i take off the "doghouse"to get access how do you get the alternator out of a 1995 safari van.I took off the front bolts but still not coming out must i take off the "doghouse"to get access

The fuel filter is located under the driverside of the vehicle around the area of the transmission mount to frame and is mounted on the insde of the uniframe rail