GMC Safari

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This Can Be Caused By A Couple Things. You Have Overfilled The Engine In Oil ( which I doubt). The Oil Is Not Returning To The Oil Pan As Fast As It Should And Staying In The Valve Train, Under The Valve Covers. Your Engine Is Worn And You Have Excessive Blowby Try Putting A 5 Weight Oil 5W 40 This May Clean The Sludge From The Oil Gallies. If It Isn`t All That Bad, Just Keep Driving. GOOD LUCK

I have a 2000 gmc safari van that does just this,won't start under damp/wet conditions.It will start one the block heater has been on for about 40 minutes (depending on how hard its raining etc).

I've checked replaced faulty fuel pump,wiring to fuel pump,fuel filter,and now inlined to believe its electrical,distributer stuff has been relaced,as has wiring and plugs.Now having found the coil I intend to relace it (if I can figure out how to get it out)

I see at one stage (can't remember models recalled) GM issued replacing coil lead to distributer,because of arching going on.

Anyhow that's what I'm up to so far. Terry

5 on 5

1,6,5,4,3,2

If you are talking about the v8, remove the cowling between the front seats, you will see the wire leads to the spark plugs. Vacumn the recessed area where the plugs are to prevent dirt falling in the cylinders. On the left side you need to remove a protective sheild. It has two bolts screwed to the floor. You should be able to reach all the plugs now. LIONHEART

Do you mean fuel sender? If you do it's located in the fuel tank and is a complete unit (pump & sending unit).

You have a vacuum leak. Usually find the hard thin vacuum line that runs from L/H top of the engine acroos the front and over to th eR/H fender broken. But it could be from any part of the vacuum system.

1997 gmc 1500 vibrates at 90 k per hour why?

I am the owner of a 1998 gmc safari awd van and i am 100% sure that the computer on mine is under drivers seat. Yes under drivers seat mounted to the floor.

I have a 99 4Runner SR5; I believe it is an 18.3 gallon tank, but don't quote me on that. It is at least 18.

Code 22 on a 1993 Honda Accord means the VTEC oil pressure switch is defective. The most common fix to this error code is simply checking your oil level and fill it back up. If your oil level is good, check the wiring to the pressure switch.

It uses Trak II transfer case fluid, GM part number 12378508. The fluid goes in a hole, use a ratchet with an extension to remove it, on the side of the transfer case.

there are bolts on the floor just below the glove box and 2 bolts on the firewall

You can find a complete vacuum hose diagram for your 1994 GMC Safari van in a Chilton or Haynes automobile repair manual. These manuals can be found at most local libraries or purchased at automobile parts stores. These companies also have online resources available for certain make and model vehicles.

check the timing or the distributor or a shaft inside of it. 2) Check the fuel pressure if it is not within the limits it will not start. The 4.3L engine is sensitive to pressure. If it is low even by a few pounds yo umay need to change the fuel pump.

A GMC Safari is one of the vehicles that installed their fuse boxes under the hood. To open it squeeze both sides.

1) Remove two stainless steel scrwes holding the lower marker light assembly.
This allows acces to a bolt you will have to remove.
2) The bolts hold the head light assembly to the truck. The socket size is 9mm
(Canada) U.S. you guess. Remove the four bolts and the head light assembly will
pull out.
Access to the bulbs is now visiable. Just twist out the old bulb and replace.
Reassembly is in the reverse order.


(different poster)-
My 2000 GMC Safari uses the Halogen bulb that inserts into the lense assembly (referred to as the "composite" bulb, and NOT the sealed-beam bulb).

You might be able to replace the bulb without removing the Lens assembly from the vehicle. However, use extreme care not to touch the new bulb-glass, and to insert it 'cleanly' (without touching the bulb-glass against anything) into the headlight lens.

I am right-handed. I opened the hood, made sure the headlights were off, and used this procedure:

Use a flat-blade screwdriver to dislodge the headlight electrical connector from the bulb (very carefully slip the flat-blade screwdriver between the connector and the bulb-base (still in the lens assembly) just enough to 'unlock' it and allow it to be removed from the headlight bulb- be careful not to break the connector).

I stood with my right arm against the car, in front of the lens assembly. I reached-in (for me, the drivers side) with my right hand, grabbed the bulb base, and rotated it counter-clockwise (counterclockwise when facing the back side of the bulb and lens).

Rotate the bulb about 3 'hours' (from the 6 o'clock position to about the 3 o'clock position). My bulb was 'sticky', and is the reason I had to stand as noted above to get enough torq to turn the bulb. The bulb should now be loose in the lense (but don't remove yet).

Note the postition of the bulb and bulb base before removing from the headlight lens assembly (i.e., 3:30 position).

Remove the old bulb. (Though I didn't, it would be a good idea to take a paper towel and wipe around and at the hole in the back of the headlight lens, before proceeding- see the next step below for the reason)

Orient the new bulb to the approx 3:30 position, and carefully and cleanly insert into the headlight lens, touching nothing against the bulb glass. I actually slightly touched the bulb-glass against the edge of the headlight bulb hole when inserting the bulb. There was no grease or oil at this opening, so I don't think it will affect performance/bulb-life. Time will tell...

Rotate clockwise approx. 3 hours (clockwise when facing the bulb from the back side) to lock the bulb in place.

Reconnect the headlight connector.

This worked for me to change out my driver-side bulb. Good luck.

the average gas mileage for 1991 GMCSafari XL van?

I am having the same problem, my issue is a broken vacuum line from the pasenger side of the van to the engine. I am trying to find a diagram so that I can fix it.

Remove the air cleaner assembly (must), remove the top half of the fan shroud (must), remove the top radiator hose (optional). I'm assuming you can figure out how to remove these items in my first sentence. If you can't, no offense, but in my opinion you have no business doing this job to start with. BEFORE you remove the serpentine belt, use a large wrench to unscrew the thermostatic clutch fan assembly from the water pump. If you don't, you will need a special tool (or you can make one as I did) to get the thermostatic clutch fan assembly off the water pump because once you remove the water pump you have no good way to hold the smooth pulley while you remove the fan assembly. This I know from experience. Just in case you don't know, you use a 3/8 ratchet inserted in the square hole of the belt tensioner to loosen the belt while you remove it. The water pump should now be accessable. There are 2 bolts on the left and 2 bolts on the right that hold the water pump to the front of the engine block. After removing the water pump you will need to remove the smooth pulley from the old pump and install it on the new one. Scrape any old gasket material off the engine block around the inlet and outlet where the water pump was mounted. Hope this helps and good luck. chevy astro and gmc safari ....same vehicle Just a note: it's much easier to remove the fan if you do it BEFORE loosening the serpentine belt. The large nut is located on the engine side of the fan. On my '98, the nut loosens counterclockwise if you're facine the engine from the front.

I have a 2000 safari with a 4.3l v-6, and the firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2, with the cylinders numbered as follows; 1 is on the driver's side in the front of the van and 2 is passenger side. 6 is passenger side toward the rear.

Yes

I have a 1992 GMC Safari Van 6 cylinder 4.3L I know that I real did it, but I real need help. if I could get a step by step or how it should go. wich go were an the number on the distributor cap an how the number go

check fuse box just behind bonnet lever