Honda Accord EX

Belt and water pump will range from $500 to $800 depending on who performs the repair.

The upstream o/2 sensor is located in the exhaust system between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. Some vehicles will have 2 upstream sensors (i.e. 1999 Chevy astro 4.3l engine has sensor for left exhaust manifold and another for right exhaust manifold). I am trying to find out for sure if you have to replace both when one goes bad. Bosch says both must be replaced!!!???

Oh yeah it(they)are easy enough to replace if you can see it (them).

Yes you can put a turbo on a Honda civic 1.6. I got mine from Matts Auto Accessories 1-800-691-RACE. They have all kinds of performance parts!!

Check for a vacuum leak.

Is the air conditioning turned on when this is happening? If so there is an air bleed screw/knob that needs to be adjusted (turned in or out) with the A/C turned on to decrease (turn clockwise) the amount of air that is bled into the intake manifold when the A/C is on.

It may also be a bad coolant temp sensor or as mentioned above you may have an air leak.

Is the "service engine soon" light on when the engine is running? If it is then you need to get someone (or yourself) to retrieve the code(s) from the ECU (computer in the car) as that may/will tell you what is not working properly. A Repair manual like Haynes or Chiltons will tell you how to jumper the diagnostic box under the hood so that with the ignition key turned on, will then allow you to retrieve the Diagnostic Codes.

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I have a '92 Paseo, M/T, it has well over 200K miles... and predictably, some issues with idle.

My troubleshooting here is for a M/T model. If yours is an auto, you may need to troubleshoot the throttle opener module for those cars. You'll need to consult a Toyota or Chilton's service manual for how-to.

On a M/T '92, low or rough idle is much more common than high idle. Unless you've been messing with the idle screw atop the intake manifold, it doesn't just creep up on its own. However, there's one cause of high idle that IS very common: the infamous IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Even so, it usually prevents the car from starting, rather than causes high idle. But since it's easiest, let's fix and rule this out.

The IACV is a thermally-operated valve that opens and raises idle when the engine is cold, to speed warming of the engine and catalyst. Set correctly, it should top out at 1500 rpm, and as coolant via hoses warms the bimetallic spring inside the IACV, it'll close, slowly bringing idle down to a normal 750 rpm, fully warm.

When they fail, they usually fail fully-open, or fully-closed; yours may have failed fully-open. Here's how to fix it...

-- engine cold and off

-- remove the intake air hose clamps (for the big black hose connecting air filter box and throttle body). Remove the side hose going to the valve cover, and set aside.

-- On the floor of the TB, outside the brass throttle plate, is a big hole about 7 o'clock. This is the air bypass port for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner all around in it, for a few seconds (don't go too crazy, though). Let set for a few minutes, repeat once.

-- while you're in here, get an old toothbrush, and spray the throttle plate with cleaner, and scrub off the dirt and crap on it (open the bellcrank to clean the inside of the plate, too). This can improve response, power and mileage, if the buildup is bad enough. Wipe off any excess cleaner.

-- Reinstall the air hose. There are two arrows on the hose that line up with arrows and marks on the TB and air filter box -- make sure they line up, or when the engine rocks, it can damage a poorly-installed hose.

-- Get in the car, and start the engine WOT. This is to allow air to get in and cut the fumes from the cleaner; otherwise it won't start. You may need to crank for a few seconds to get it to catch. Several cranks at a few seconds each, are better than one long one; save your battery.

-- Is idle still high? If not, your IACV was stuck open; should be better now. If so, shut off engine and go on to the next adjustment... you'll need an inductive tachometer for this one -- can't use the car's tach unless you have no other choice.

-- Get a big paper clip. This is your jumper wire. Look next to the fuse box in the engine compartment (next to the air filter box) for a small brown box; this is your diagnostic port. On the inside of the cover, look for the location of TE1 and E1 connectors.

-- Start engine cold, and rev to 2500 rpm for two mins. You need the engine warm enough to completely close the IACV, but not hot enough to kick on the cooling fan.

-- When the engine it warmed, go to the diag port and jump TE1 and E1. The idle should change and a clicking sound should be distinctly audible. This is normal.

-- Take a blade screwdriver and twirl the idle screw atop the intake manifold, above the TB under the rubber plug, until the tach shows 750 rpm.

-- Remove the paper clip when done, close the diag port cover and remove the tach. Go for a test drive. If it's still too high, consult a service manual.

Yes.

First remove the motor mounts (some times you have to apply heat to break the bolts loose, just remember that you need to be very careful when using heat of any kind around the engine) and then use a floor jack under the front of the engine to lift it up in the air as far as possible to gain enough clearence of the oil pan with the cross brace, if the engine can be lifted up high enough, you should have no problem removing the pan to be cleaned and a new gasket installed. Replace the pan back in place using the pan bolts to hold in place. Bolts can be tightened at this time while engine is in the raised position so you have enough room to get to all of them as long as the engine is secure. After installing pan bolts, lower the jack, replace motor mounts and torque to required specifications. Just remember, this may not work on all cars the same way, so first, you may want to call around to make sure your car can be done this way.

I had the same issue with my 93 Accord EX 4 dr sedan. I was told it was the Idle Control Valve (ICV) by one "mechanic" but when I asked another one whi had their own shop, he said the IACV (idle air control valve) fails or it doesn't. He added that the IACV rarely fails.

In my case, the coolant level was too low, which affected the FITV (fast-idle thermo valve). The FITV adjusts the idle based on engine temp.

Here's a link to a post with much more info: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1704468

Heres a step by step walk through on how to fix it:

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f55/troubleshooting-idle-problems-259965/

Check battery in remove control.

If it burst because it was defective or just worn out and you did not continue to drive the engine until it overheated then no damage was done. However, if it burst because the engine overheated then you may have blown the head gasket, and you should have it looked at by a professional mechanic. Driving a car with a blown head gasket will do serious damage to the engine.

there are two flat bolt on top the the steering shaft that hold the lock in place but they are one time bolts so to remove them you either have to chisel a slot in them to use a flat head or you have to drill out the bolt the new lock assembly with come with new bolt with heads they break off once they are fully tight

So far I've been able to discover that apparently it's under the hood, also tied to the Radio, possibly with the interior lighting -- however none of those items are listed on my diagram in the car fuse boxes... so the search continues for me.

On my son's 1987 Honda Accord the lighter is fused with the interior lights. It is a 15 amp fuse that is under the hood right behind the battery.

Also i might add that the cigarette lighter fuse for the 1990 Honda accord ex it is also located not in the vehicle itself but under the hood behid the air intake/filter and a 15 amp fused also part of the interior light circuitry as per the 1987/86

Take the carb of and see if the carb floats could be filling with fuel and not shutting off the fuel intake to the bowl. Check the floats for liquid inside. If that's not it then check the floats for restricted movement. While your in there clean out the bowl and the float needle that is supposed to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl.

i just got my 98 Honda accord driver's side window regulator replaced and it was $610 at the Honda dealership for the part + 3 hours of labor. what a rip off

i just fixed my 2000 Honda accord driver's side window. cost $300+ with parts and labor. i looked everywhere and saw that the regulator and motor should cost less than $100, but they charged me about $200 for it. jerks.

It has a chain and the chances of it breaking are slim to none. It is designed to last the life of the engine.

If it has been fitted correctly then there should be no problem.

Does BMW320i has cam belt?

the turn signal and headlights are 2 different sections, although i urge you to loosen both sections. locateand loosen the black plastic asymbly that holds the headlights together there are 2 bolts located on both ends of it, then loosen the side bolt that hold the turn signal asymbly and take it out( these 3 bolts are all the same size and clearly visable) there are 2 long prongs that holds the end of the asymbly that go into 2 slots and there is a clip that holds the 2 sections together,( this is located where the headlights and turn signals come together,, be extra careful when separating the 2 pieces, as the clips will become flimsy and will not fit back together snug. separate the 2 pieces by gently wiggying the clip part first,,then pull section out (the long prongs), replace the turn signal bulb by twisting and then pulling out.Replace in this manner.align the 2 long prongs and insert into frame, then slowly align the clip and soflty push until it clicks into position, retighten the bolts on the headlight part, then the side botl that holds the turnsignal assymbly together. I cant stress enough to take your time and be careful of the clip. Its a shame the way they made this, but having done this numerous times, i learned the hard way. Good Luck!

Without a donor car this would be very expensive. I suggest you save yourself lots of money and work by just selling this car a buying a manual. You will be money and time ahead.

Have the ABS repaired by a professional. They will reset the light. Resetting the light without repairing the problem will do no good. The light will just come back on.

Hi, if this is a manual unit (no digital screen display) follow these steps :

Prey the bottom side of the clock box to remove it first (with flat head screwdriver, cover with tape to prevent scratch !) then unplug its 2 connectors by pressing a clip on the side, shaking a little when pulling out.

There is 1st screw right behind the clock and other 2 screws on the bottom edge of the panel (below radio) .

Remove all three screws and 2 knobs of the climate control unit .

Gently lift from the bottom of the panel (at the 2 screws just removed), there are 2 clips on both sides and 2 others on top of the panel, so you can prey or just lift the panel slowly .

Unplug 2 connector behind the unit (do not forget press the clips)

From the back of the unit, there are 1 bulb with wire on the blower knob, turn just a little counterclockwise to remove . 3 other bulbs locate inside three round slots (easy to see with white flat bases), use flat head screwdriver to turn just a little as other bulb .

Now you can change all 4 new bulbs then before to do the reverse steps :

Try to plug in only the connector on the unit (NOT the blower knob) to test the bulbs ( ignition key ON ) .

There is another bulb on the clock box if it needs to be replaced too.

Have fun .......!

The 4 cylinder with A/T will get 22 city 31 highway, manual will get 21 city 31 highway.

The V6 with A/T will get 19 city 29 highway.

The V6 Coupe with manual will get 17 city 25 highway.

There is no OBD2 connector on a 1994 Honda Accord. Your car is not OBD2 compliant. You car is OBD1. Click the link for detailed instructions with photos on how to retrieve the code.

If it had a timing belt, you would replace it at 90,000 miles. But this engine has a timing chain and does not have a belt.