Honda Accord EX

"Under the passenger side dashboard.Closest to the door.Unhook the power wire,three bolts and its off."

By having a professional repair the problem that has turned the light on. They will reset the light after the repair. This is not a DIY repair.

removing negative battery ca

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Yes, it is.

A 1998 Honda Accord could stall because it is out of gas. The car could also stall because of a bad computer.

This will have to be done by a Toyota dealership unless you have access to a module programmer. Then you will then have to know the input parameters for it. There can be a alot of them depending on the model. I would take it to a dealership. Good luck. If you just want to remove the code then use a scanner that has erasing capability. Remove the code before attempting a restart. This will force the computer to recheck everything as though it was normal.

The Viagra wore off. Sorry. Does it still shift? If it does, a bushing may have broken at the base of the shifter. If it doesn't shift, a broken cable, or possible the arm at the transmission. A better description of what the transmission is doing or not doing would help.

The answer to this question does not depend on Honda Accord as it is similar for all or most modern cars. Many things may cause poor acceleration. Improper type of fuel, air filter is clogged, carburetors dirty or partially blocked or misadjusted, spark plugs have gone bad, the ignition system does not work properly, valves in the cylinder head are not functioning as they should, broken distributor cap making one or more cylinders miss out, the choke may be on permanently (this sometimes happens with automatic choke). The state of the engine or electrical system or drive train or all of the three may be bad. The tires can even be at fault if they have very low air pressure so they are almost flat. I would start checking the fuel system, the air filter and the ignition system. If these are in order, then I would go check the engine. Is there oil in the crankcase? When was the car overhauled last time? What is the state of the alternator and the battery? Although the last two things don't directly affect acceleration, they sure are important for the performance of the engine.

Parts would be $150-$400, depending on the quality you get. If you do the work yourself, that would be the cost. If you need to have a mechanic to do it, expect around $800-$1200.

The 2002 Honda Accord is 5 ft. 10.3 in. (70.3 in.)14 in. wheels wide.

When the light comes on, you have about 2 gallons of fuel remaining in your tank. How far you make it depends on where and how you are driving. On the highway, maybe about 50 miles, in the city, maybe 40.

The clock will pop out of the dash with a small screw driver. Unplug the wiring harness. On the back of the clock is a small light bulb. Turn the slot in the back of the bulb 1/4 turn. Bulbs cost $2.00 - $5.00 dependig on the dealer. Very simple job.

You can replace the bulb without going to the dealership. Radio Shack sells the correct replacement (Part #7219 (272-1092C) 12V - 60mA) for about $1.50 for a two bulb pack. You have to unwind the wire leads from plastic holder. Remove the old bulb and slide the new one in through the holder. Rewind each lead around the hook on each side. These are also the same bulbs for the heat/AC back lights.

pop off the cover using a small flat head screwdriver, slide it up the shifter an inch or two. you should be able to feel where the bulb slides in. pull bulb out and replace.

Commandments.

Possible air bag system malfunctioning. Take the car back to where the work was done, and have them look at it.

The alignment service was just a coincidence. This is a known problem and Honda issued a TSB on this.

Simply take your car to your local Honda dealer and tell them about the SRS light and remind them that there is a TSB on the issue. Your dealer should replace the OPDS sensor at no charge, regardless of age or mileage, as a goodwill gesture.

I had this done recently and it is has worked beautifully.

Replace the signal flasher relay assuming you have physically seen front and rear, left and right signal bulbs flash.

You take it to a mechanic. If your asking, you shouldnt be attempting it.

1. Drain cooling system

2. Remove timing cover

3. Remove timing belt

4. Remove water pump attaching bolts then the water pump

sound simple but it calls for 4.3 hrs labor without a/c 5.0 with a/c

It's a common problem. If it's staying at 19mph all the time, the speedo head is bad. It's common for some solder points to come undone. If you know how to solder, you could do that. If your cruise control doesn't work and your speedo doesn't work, it's your VSS. It's by the trans and really easy to change. Hope this helps.

My UK data is showing the Air compressor clutch relay location

is fitted to the left hand inner wing (when viewed from the the driving seat).

4- Wheel would be best on a 10 year old vehicle

Synthetic oil is always best but there are some engineering reports that suggest that you not change from traditional oil if the vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it. If you decide to not use a synthetic oil, I'd stay with any of the Pennsylvania grade motor oils. Also, look for the engineering seals on the label. For use in an older engine, select an oil VISCOSITY that does not allow the oil pressure light to come on or the oil pressure gauge to drop too low. You can go with a slightly thinner (lower VIS) oil during the winter to help with starting. I'd start with a summer: 20 W 40, Winter, 10 W 30. If that is too thin for your engine, go up a little in the numbers. If oil pressure is low, try Kendall brand oil. It tends to increase your oil pressure.

Problem with the transmission. Seek professional help.

beast way to describe it, put your front end on jack stands, crawl under on the driver side, look up and to the right. it is located behind the right wheel inside the engin compartment. You'll need to work from underneath mostly. but may fin you need to jockey it into position from the top.

You have to remove the panel around the cluster which has 2 screws at the top facing upward. Once removed pull from top down and gently pull towards you to release the 2 clips holding it in from the bottom. That will expose the instrument cluster which has 4 screws securing it. Remove those screws and pull towards you gently and release the connectors then remove cluster. You'll have to remove the bulbs and the white cover to expose the speedo and its screws. Be gentle when removing the white cover(clips and screws). P.S. get the speedo from a scrap yard and save yourself some money. Good luck, RICK