Honda Civic EX

The amp is right next to the subwoofer. They are both located behind the rear driver side panel.

The 2008 Honda Civic's engine produces 140 hp @ 6300 rpm.

they do not come with one stock, you would have to install an aftermarket one- Nick

unDer hood fuse box

2 wire plug in green wrapping under the glove box on the right side.

bolts

The positive battery terminal cable will always run to the alternator- just follow it down.

It is directly behind and attached to the under-dash fuse/relay box which is located on the drivers side, to the left and below the change bucket inside your car. It's a black plastic box. Just take out the connector and it should wiggle free.

Sean

Hi, I am now answering my own question after repairing the car myself. First order in replacment bearings makimng sure the correct ones are orderd (I kept being sent rear or front bearings for a 900 turbo earlier model). The new bearings are one piece incorporating the bearing, mounting bracket and hub assembly and being so are quite expensive ($220 Australian dollars each).

First loosen the wheel nuts and also the driveshaft retaining bolt then jack up the front of the car and remove the road wheel. Then remove the two mounting bolts holding the caliper assembly from steering knuckle, move caliper unit away from working area and support with a bit of wire carfully not to strain the rubber brake line.

Next undo the two nuts and bolts securing the steering knuckle to the suspension strut, once removed pull steering knuckle down to gain better access to the Allen key (hex head) bolts retaing the wheel bearing to the steering knuckle (you will need a 10mm Allen key (hex key) to remove the four bolts.

The disc brake rotor will come of with the bearing assembly, remove disc brake rotor by removing small star shaped bolts.

Assembly is the reversal of the removal procedure ensuring the Allen key bolts are replaced using a little locktite or other thread glue and ensuring drive shaft centre bolt is done up very tightly once car is back on the ground.

Hope this helps anyone else. Cheers Gav

on the side of your throttle body dont confuse your map sensor they look the same

The light is on because the ABS has a problem. Unless you know what you are doing, take it to a professional. Another thing to remember about ABS is that it's easy to damage those delicate wheel speed sensors while doing brake work, or to cause metal particles to attach themselves to the magnet. Either is likely to put the system into default, or make it go permanently into anti-lock mode (called "false modulation"), and turn on the warning lamp. On ABS, speed sensors are at the top of the list of failures. As far as the ABS problems are concerned, the first is speed sensors with metallic particles sticking to the sensor nose. This may cause system default, or make it constantly go into anti-lock mode called 'false modulation.' Make sure the air gaps are correct, and the sensors and tone wheels are clean with no iron filings or debris in the vanes, which can give an erratic speed signal, set a code, and put the system in default. Another problem on wheel speed sensors is an internal break in a wire. Be careful doing any wheel work because those sensors are delicate. The second thing is rust where the sensor mounts or in the wheel speed sensor bore, which makes the sensor hard to remove. Another problem is moisture infiltration into speed sensor electrical connectors, which causes intermittents.

No, it will not. The 1995 is a 5th generation and the 1999 is a 6th generation. They are totally different and not interchangable.

it is up ur but and around the corner two blocks away from california the you'll meet snookie and she'll led u to mike then he'll tell u

It is attached to the black rubber intake hose the conects the airbox ( where the air filter is located) and the Throttle body (connected to the intake manifold).

could be bad rotors, or brake pads wearing unevenly, which would result in bad rotors.

It's a sensor/switch on the transmission that sends signals to the ecu( the car'a computer) to tell it what speed the car is going, and what rpm it's at, so it knows when to shift.

Unless you're a mechanic, you tow the car down to a real mechanic and pay him to do it. If you're going to diy, then you need to take the valve cover, intake manifold, the head, probably a couple of the pumps, god knows how many wires and hoses, and a half a dozen frozen bolts off. Then you need to take the head down to a shop and have it machined so that you can be sure that it is not at all warped. Even if you know it's not warped, get it machined. If you don't know where to take it, then go ask a local mechanic. Then you put the new gasket on, and undo all of that taking off that you did. Finally, you need to change the oil and anti-freeze/water BEFORE you start the engine to check it. Now just get down on your knees and pray to God that you've done everything perfectly and don't have to take it all apart again.

Good luck.

4.4 hours of labor

One reason a 1995 Honda Civic might sputter and cough while accelerating during normal driving is because of a bad coil. Another reason could be a bad fuel pump or fuel filter. Still another reason could be a bad oxygen sensor.

6.5" http://www.lowrider.com/information/speakerfit/dh.php

the coolant is low, or the radiator fan switch is not working

They are a good car.

bring in the registration or title to the Honda dealer. they can look up the vin and make you a key..