Honda Prelude

dead battery... if battery is ok, most likely bad starter.. also everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at the library in the reference section for FREE...make copies of the right pages and fix your vehicle like a PRO! :) good luck Dave :)

1) Open hood (hey, some people need this step written out)

2) Locate the back of the headlamp assembly on either side that you will replace the bulb - You will see 2 rubber gasket seals with the headlamp bulb wires connectors in the middle of them.

3) For the bulb you want to replace, carefully pry off the rubber gasket seal and disconnect the wire connector.

4) Carefully locate the metal "locking" wire that is against the back of the bulb assembly and remove it by pushing in the end of the wire and unhooking it from the bulb holder assembly.

5) Remove the bulb and note the way it was sitting in the holder assembly.

6) Reinstall new bulb by placing it in the holder assembly the same way the old bulb was in and reverse steps 4 through 1.

- NOTE - DO NOT touch the bulb glass with your bare fingers or allow it to get dirty in anyway. Any dirt or oil on the bulb glass can cause it to explode when heated up by having it turned on. Use rubber or vinyl gloves to handle the bulbs.

I"m not sure if this even has a CAS, but if it does you'll see a wiring loom going down behind the crank pulley. If there's no loom down there, no CAS. I'm working on a 94H22 with no CAS, so I'm sure if yours would have one due to the different years, but if it does, that's where it'd be

Most newer cars are sensative to jump starting. When you were jumping the car was the cables connected correctly? Check some fuses you may have blown a fuse somewhere.

The prelude to the concert was extremlly funny, but was nothing like the show that was more violent.

put in a new O2 sensor. The O2 sensor sends a signal to the computer on how rich or how lean to run the engine. It diagnoses the ratio of fuel to air. Once you get an O2 sensor pretty much carboned up, there is not much hope of fixing it, just buy new. Running it too rich for too long will also foul up your plugs, and your cat converter too

Paper sludge is the leftover chemical sludge that is expelled when making paper. This sludge reduces as paper is recycled.

Take the dash panel off under the steering column. There should be four 10mm bolts holding it in place. Then look reach up under the dash and your speedometer cable is connected to the left hand side of the instrument cluster when looking at the cluster. Towards the outside of the car if looking at the cluster from the bottom. The Cable is at least 3/8" thick and black. Grab it as close to the instrument cluster as possible and gently pull it out. Then open the hood and locate the cord underneath the windshield wiper motor. It may make it easier to remove the windshield wiper motor, but it's not critical. Find the cable and follow it. Keep following the cable through the engine bay disconnecting it from its little mounting points along the way until you get to the other end which is located on the back side of the transmission under the carbs. BEWARE the end that connects to the transmission has a small clip that holds it in place. Use a needle nose pliers or some other tool to remove this clip and place it in a safe place in case you need to use it again. Reach down and grasp the end as close to where it connects as you can and again gently pull on it until it comes out. Since both ends of the cable are now free, go back to the inside of the car by the instrument cluster and pull the cable all the way through the firewall from this side. Now that you have the old cable removed just reverse the process to install your new cable. The first time I replaced a speedometer cable on my 85 Prelude i lost my little clip and didn't install it. My speedometer still worked but it would stop working every once in a while for a mile or two. and good luck.

Tricks of the trade:

-Remove Wiper Motor for easy access to the firewall

-Remove air vent that is directly above speedometer cable in engine bay for easy access to that end of speedometer cable

-My speedometer cable broke directly at the end so to get the end out of the transmission, I used a magnet. The end popped right out.

-When ordering a new cable, measure the length of your existing one. I needed a 75" cable versus the 105" one.

-When putting the new cable in, you may have to finagle it to get it into the transmission. Keep working on it though, it'll go eventually.

-Good luck!

5x114.3

Of course it will. The only thing that will matter is offset and what you want to do with your car. Do you want to risk maybe tire rubbing? and possibly damaging rim and car? Which can be fixed by rolling your fenders. (but do you really want to do that) or do you want your car to be more performance oriented in which case the 18's are a no no. If you want your car to look badass and still have some good performance go with some 17's and a drop. Just my 2 cents

h22a motors are oil burners. most likely its the valve seals, or piston rings. in my case it was the piston rings though. the sleeves on the h22 is way to hard of material and it wears down the rings really fast. try some aftermarket rings if you plan on replacing them

At the top of the brake pedal there is a little plastic piece that pushes the switch to turn the brake lights off after the pedal is released. The plastic piece has a tendenacy to fall apart after a period of time. I fixed mine with by replacing it with a 20 cent medal bolt.

Yes, but it requires some engineering know how. First, you need to consider the 3 essentials the engine needs to operate; spark, gas, and motion (starter). For the spark, you'll need to bypass the coil and wire it thru a switch to the battery. Then you need to time the spark from the coil going into the center terminal on the distributor cap. You can do this by making a 'bump' on the rotor that opens a makeshift switch inside the distributor cap. The coil will discharge when the switch opens, sending spark to the plugs. This is how the old carburetor engines worked and this 'switch' was called the points. Next you need to have fuel available in a jar near the engine. Use a vacuum line to allow the engine vacuum to suck in the fuel as it needs it from this jar. Finally, pour a teaspoon of gas into the throttle body and then start it up. The starter should turn over without the ECU. Granted this is very primitive, but should work with adjustments to the 'points' and fuel orifice. This setup will not last long and the engine will run very poorly with none of the sensors operating and the timing being your best guess. You might also destroy you catalytic converter, so don't try this on a 'good' car.

Look at the bottom of the back tire. Now look forward, towards the battery and air filter case. Attached to the frame, near the bottom of the motorcycle, you'll see a black, plastic, trapezoid-shaped part that has a bunch of horizontal cuts running through it. It's about 4" wide by 2" tall by (maybe) 1/2"-1" thick. That's it.

You probably need to get your oil changed?

Because of low sales and that Honda didn't find room for the sporty two-door in their product lineup.

The front seats can be swapped out. The rear seats however cannot, as the 92 model had a partition down the middle, while later models in that generation had a more standard seat setup.

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here is an excellent forum with pics to show you how to flash the codes. it says ecu is found on drivers side, but my ecu was on passengers. it doesn't really matter... as long as you can find ecu you're set. make sure when you cut the wire not to plug it into the 3p connector. it's the 2 prong that you want. the article also has related subjects, such as "ecu reset procedure" (which you'll need to do once you fix the problem). it even has the official codes chart that you will read from. ---hope it helps

The 5th Generation SH prelude came with an "Active Torque Transfer System"

Which allowed power to be re-distributed between the inner and outer wheel during cornering improving the vehicle's handling.

ATTS is the most notable difference however there were some smaller changes.

It seems the s3 light is an electronic overdrive,when 2nd gear is engaged and the button at front of gear change shifter is pressed it lowers the revs for quieter cruising,when the button is pressed again and the s3 light goes out you'll see the revs lower for faster acceleration

The S3/S4 lights in the gear indicator sequence mean the car is equipped with a semi-manual shift option, based on Porsche's Tiptronic(R) design. It allows the driver to choose to downshift (for rapid acceleration as in passing or whatnot) by pressing the trigger on the front of the shifter, in order to increase speed quickly. It is programmed with an "idiot-proof" override - if you don't shift when the computer knows you need to it will upshift for you, that way you can't fry the tranny by revving too high. Honda's version goes by the names: iShift, S-matic, MultiMatic. There's a good description on Wikipedia - see Tiptronic. It's meant to increase the fun and allow the driver some of the joy of "manual" transmission without the clutch pedal and decision making of full manual.

I would get a can of engine oil flush to run thru the oil, along with a cheap Fram filter. Spin off the old filter and put on the new filter then dump in the flush, and run the engine for 20 minutes or so then drain the oil.
The reason for new filter is to provide a clean "trash can" to put the "garbage" in that the flush will produce.
Once this is complete and do to the fact it's an 85 and would put in some Castrol GTX 10W-30 with a Wix Filter # 51334.
See if it continues blinking. If it does then I would start thinking Oil Pump.
If not run a Castrol GTX for awhile, then if you have no major oil leaks make the move to a [http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tro.aspx?zo=1163284 Quality Synthetic Oil]. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

For all Accords and Preludes from 1984 through 1995, the correct gap is 0.039-0.043 in (1.0-1.1 mm.)

full exhaust

and anything else to help air flow

The PCV valve is located on the top of a box shaped part called an oil breather chamber by the oil filter. Pull off the 1/2" (or so) hose on top of the box, the PCV is attached to the hose.