Honda Prelude

flash a timing light ate the small oping between the engine and the tranny visible from right under the hood easy you will see the fly wheel and if it is only a small adjustment loosen the bolts on the distributor its self (not the black distributor cap) and you can twist it a little to get proper timing.

in the front of the block.

prelude's depending on spec can most deffinately be awd/4wd.. 100% 4ws,for best results go to a Honda search engine/site & you can read all about body/engine type / drive train / capacity.. even why & how the Honda prelude range was made.

Left side of the motor right near the distributor and air intake tubing

Honda has a gas cut off switch, which cuts off your fuel if you are in an accident. Perhaps this switch is malfunctioning

My experience is that the detection of power to the fuel pump requires removal of the fuel pump connector and a multimeter to determine if voltage is present, at the connector, when the key is turned to the "on" (not "start") position. If no power is detected, the MASTER RELAY is suspect. Responsible for ensuring all fuel is shut down when the electrical energy to the fuel system ceases, the master relay can suffer from micro-cracks caused by repeated heating/cooling cycles on the miniature PC board. An easy and inexpensive fix is to remove the little PC board and reheat the solder points (use soldering iron) on the back of the board. Be careful not to overheat as you can damage the components. The resultant solder point should be shiny, not dull. If you overheat the solder joint it will become dull. This "hunt" for the lack of power to the fuel pump was a long and frustrating process when I had the problem. That master relay controls the fuel pump and the injectors so that when you turn off the ignition, the fuel pump and injectors are no longer allowed to operate. The fuel is pressurized behind the injectors by the fuel pump. You'll notice that the car will start better if you turn the ignition key to the "on" position for 3 seconds before turning the key to the "start". This allows the fuel pump to pressurize your fuel lines before igniting the engine.

My experience is that the detection of power to the fuel pump requires removal of the fuel pump connector and a multimeter to determine if voltage is present, at the connector, when the key is turned to the "on" (not "start") position. If no power is detected, the MASTER RELAY is suspect. Responsible for ensuring all fuel is shut down when the electrical energy to the fuel system ceases, the master relay can suffer from micro-cracks caused by repeated heating/cooling cycles on the miniature PC board. An easy and inexpensive fix is to remove the little PC board and reheat the solder points (use soldering iron) on the back of the board. Be careful not to overheat as you can damage the components. The resultant solder point should be shiny, not dull. If you overheat the solder joint it will become dull. This "hunt" for the lack of power to the fuel pump was a long and frustrating process when I had the problem. That master relay controls the fuel pump and the injectors so that when you turn off the ignition, the fuel pump and injectors are no longer allowed to operate. The fuel is pressurized behind the injectors by the fuel pump. You'll notice that the car will start better if you turn the ignition key to the "on" position for 3 seconds before turning the key to the "start". This allows the fuel pump to pressurize your fuel lines before igniting the engine.

need to buy transmission put it in and thats it.

show me picture of where the water pump is located on 1991 Honda prelude si

The rear calipers are not like normal ones that press in the have to turn in. Usually clockwise to go in and counterclockwise to come out. Make sure your bleeder screw is tight on all wheels and your cap to the fluid reservoir is on correctly to avoid having to bleed the brakes after.

The turn signal/hazard light relay is directly behind the fuse box. its about an 1 1/2" wide and about 2" long and its black.

Most EGR valves must be replaced with factory dealer parts in order to pass state emissions. Aftermarket valves will not pass the test. Keep this in mind when you finally replace it. Sorry I cannot give you details on how to do it.

The typical EGR valve can be cleaned and possibly repaired in some cases. Carbon build up can be scraped and blown out with compressed air.A pinhole in the rubber diaphragm (a common problem)can be fixed using high temperature silicone sealant. Locate the hole with soapy water while blowing into vacuum hose. Clean area with alcohol and let dry. Apply silicone sealant with a toothpick to the hole while sucking on the vacuum hose to draw the sealant into the hole. Let dry overnight. Such a repair can last many years and pass SMOG testing easily, saving the owner hundreds of dollars for parts and labor.

I just did this job the other day my self and it was my first, it is real easy and takes no longer than an hour. The only tool you will need is a Fillips screw driver (cross, star). First lock your headlights in the "up" position, the button is located to the right of the steering wheel above the defroster. Next you will have to remove the shroud encasing the entire flip light system, there are 4 screws securing it down, one on each side of the light casing and then two longers screws on each side of the light it self. Once the shroud is removed, probably black in color, there are three more smaller screws to remove around the light itself. These screws secure a metal ring (chrome in color) that holds the light in place, this ring is transfered over to the replacement light. There are two black screws located at the bottom center and middle left or right (depending on which light is being removed) of the light, dont touch these screws or you car will explode, Ha ha just joking. These determine the orientation or you light beam, if you loosen or tight these screws your light will be aimed a little off but not a big deal just turn them back. Once the silver oval shapped ring has been removed you can then remove the light. Disconnect the light in the back and transfer the black boot on the back of the old light to the new light, once this is done follow this process in reverse. You will probably drop a few screws behind the light as I did, if they dont find there way to the street you can remove the black shroud below the bumper with the same screw driver with no problems. I cant tell you which head light to buy but anyone at Lordco or Canadian Tire can. Good Luck EG

The 88 Honda Prelude doesn't have a restart button. If you are turning the key and nothing happens except for the dash lights coming on, the problem is usually in one of these three areas: The Ignition Switch, The Neutral Safety Switch (which is located on the clutch pedal on standard transmissions and on the shifter on automatics), or the Starter itself. To test this, pull the small wire off the starter (it just plugs in), connect a test light to the wire, and turn the ignition switch all the way to start. If the test light lights up, you need a starter. If it doesn't, you need to reconnect the wire and have a professional look at the system.

A lot less then they cost now!!!!!!!!!

Look at your title and there will be a weight fee category number and that two digit number is the purchase price for the car. Like my 1992 prelude weight fee is 19. So the car cost $19,000.00 new.

With the 2.0 and 2.1 the only tranny that will swap is from the 2.0 or 2.1

You need to specify what year Prelude as it varies how to remove a heater from generation to generation.

None of the dashboard lights work on my 1988 Prelude. Why?

your local honda dealership. they will have the exact match you need. i went to an advance auto for lower control arm bushings, and they were more expensive then the dealership. and on top of that too small! so i now go to the dealership if i need OEM parts for my 1989 honda prelude

under the dash left side by your left knee as seated.

yes

Supposedly, there is a main relay (located in driver's compartment, under dash?) that gets "distant" when it gets hot. The engine will crank, but that's it. Solution is to replace main relay (Dealer>$70), re-solder every connection in the relay/circuit board to eliminate whatever connection is cracked (& heat spreading), or air out the interior of your car until it is cool enough to fool the main relay . . .

it could be coming from behind your timing cover, if so, it is the cam or crankshaft seals. it may also be an oil pan gasket.

About 4 hours.

the dipstick is at the top of the transmission housing near the corner of the battery that is clostest to the engine. i assume u mean how do u change the fluid. there is a drain plug near where the front right axle goes into the tranny. after drained there is a fill plug higher up on the tranny case above the front right axle. fill till fluid starts coming out of this hole (on a level surface).

Try twisting it and then get a manual for it. Try Chiltons or Haynes.

Re melted solder on 6 or 8 pins in main relay and it works just fine now.