0
Jeep Cherokee Laredo
The Jeep Cherokee Laredo was manufactured from 1985 to 1992 as a full-size SUV. Its earlier models had a 2.5-liter engine while the four-liter engine came out after 1987. It was designed primarily for the North American market.
1,043 Questions
Where is the drain plug for the radiator on a Jeep Cherokee?
on a 1990 Cherokee it is passenger side, halfway down the radiator,best way to get to it is remove the grille.
The Jeep Cherokee radiator drain plug is plastic and very fragile. You should remove the lower radiator hose to drain the cooling system.
Where is the fuel filter located on 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6 cylinders?
Look under the Jeep, just in front of the fuel tank. Actually, the fuel filter is with the fuel pump inside the gas tank. The gas tank has to be dropped to replace this.
How do you change the oil in a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo?
Pull the plug on the base pan. Then pull off your oil filter. Reverse steps to re-install
Allow time for the amount of oil coming out of the pan to decrease to a point where it is no longer a solid stream. When pulling off the oil filter, keep it upright (common sense) until you get it over a pan. Also make sure to rub some oil on the filter gasket before screwing it on. Don't tighten it too tight. You shouldn't need any sort of wrench, as hand-tightening is tight enough and a wrench could damage the filter.
How to repair cracked vinyl driver's door armrest on a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo?
I had the same problem with my 98 Gr Cherokee and I repaired it with a vinyl repair kit (about $8) I purchased at Wal-Mart. You just cut out the cracked area, so you have a straight edges aroud the area. Then mix the colors to match your problem area and spread it over the hole. Then take the textured patch (included in the kit-it gives the repair area that textured look) place it over the patch and rub over it with a hot metal disc (also included in the kit-and heat it with an iron). It was pretty east to do and it is hardly noticable. You may want to test out a very small spot with the vinyl repair kit. I used a kit from an auto parts store on my '99 Grand Cherokee. I followed the instructions to the letter. I replaced a 2 inch by 3 inch area and matched the camel (tan) color perfectly. After a few weeks of sitting in the sun, the patch changed from camel to light green. Different folks have different results, so it's best to test in a small place and give the patch a chance to age a bit before committing to a large repair.
Where is the fuel filter located on a 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport?
On any car or engine, you can always start at the fuel injector or carbourator and follow the line leading to it backwards till you find any part of the fuel system your looking for, including modified ones. This should only take a few minutes and has the advantage of exposing any other things (like pressure regulators, etc) also in the system that may have caused a problem. Uh...this also works from the gas tank and following it forward...or anywhere along the system you want to start! I believe Valvoline Oil Change told me they cant replace my fuel filter due to it being located in the fuel tank. On a 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 it should be mounted to the body, should be located on the body around your driver's side rear tire. If you get up under there you should see it. Hope this helps.
What is the wheel base of the 2014 Jeep Cherokee?
The 2014 Jeep Cherokee has a 8 ft. 10.3 in. (106.3 in.) wheel base.
How do you replace the head lights of a 2002 Jeep Cherokee Laredo?
There is no such thing as a 2002 Jeep Cherokee. The last year was 2001.
There is a Torx (Star) bolt on top of the headlight pretty much in the middle of the light. There's only one for each headlight. Remove that bolt, then pull the lights forward. It takes some effort, but they're only held in with clips and they'll pop out. It might help to start by prying at the bottom of the light. Hope this helps.
What type of oil should you use for a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo?
I have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, in the manual it tell you to use 10W30, and that's what I have been using, hope this helps.
1995 jeep transmission problems?
I bought a 1995 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2 v8. 112k miles on it. Automatic transmission. If i drive it slow everythings just fine. But if I floor the acceleration pedal knocking sounds when shifting, rough shifting and grinding sounds from somewhere. Is that problem transfer case or tranny or anything else?
It is AWD. It is not response quickly when I press the acceletor pedal. Maybe 1second later it responses. Something loose?
I just changed a serpentine belt on my '97 Cherokee 4.0you need to loosen the 2 top mount bolts (I think they're 13mm) on the power steering pump and loosen the 15mm bolt in the middle of the idler pulley. Then loosen the tensioning bolt on the lower side of the power steering pump Lower (left hand side facing pump from the front) follow the diagram to route the new belt( should be on a decal under the hood) replace belt then tighten using the tensioning bolt on lower side of the power steering pump to get 1/4" to 1/2" of deflection between puleys (when you press down on the belt) then tighten the bolts on top of the power steering pump And don't forget to tighten the idler puley bolt in the center of the puley. Run engine for 3 to 5 minutes to seat the belt. then recheck the belt tension. Caution! be sure to route new belt propperly or you could run the water pump backwards NOT GOOD
How do you fix reverse lights on a 1989 jeep?
It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.
Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.
On the passengers side of the trans just behind the bell housing there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.
While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.
Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.
If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely apply di-electric grease and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.
Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.
I just did this procedure on my '91 Cherokee, and it works great, but, I would make the suggestion to use a multi meter and run a continuity test in each gear position. you should read at 000 in each gear position at the connector and you'll need a diagram to tell you which contacts you should be checking for each gear position, (this can be done without climbing under the vehicle) if it doesn't read 000, CLEAN IT. There are charts on the net that tell you what position is what, and where you should have continuity. if you can't find one I could send you a pic of it.
The connector is on the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side. (there are two that look similar and have the same number of contacts but are different colors. I believe it was the black one on mine, the other is gray) when you clean the switch it's not sufficient to only use contact cleaner, you need to use it AND GENTLY scrape the "wiper contacts" and contact "rails" with a razor or something similar until they are smooth and shiny like a new penny, (don't gouge them, or remove too much material) otherwise you could end up either doing this again, or dropping $300 on a new switch when you didn't need to.
it really isn't that hard to do this job but, remember you need to test ALL gear positions because it can fool you into reading as good if you only test it in one gear position. while another has a lot of resistance to it.
definitely use di-electric grease on any and all connections, and I actually used it to lube the switch innards as well, we'll see how that works over time. make sure to remove and scrape clean the spring loaded contacts on the wiper arm and remove all the crud from the springs so they can run smoothly.
remember as well, that this switch IS ADJUSTABLE, so you may need to adjust it once it's back on the transmission. it's just a one screw adjustment, and you will need to run the resistance/continuity test again to confirm it's in the correct position for EACH gear. good luck!
it sounds like you should have a eletrical spark coming out of your coil ckeck there first, on the two cherrokees I have own it was the fuel system, pluged filter,weak fuel pump made starting intermitant if your 1990 jeep is carberated try a table spoon of gas in the carb. be very carful not to spill gas all over it will burn if there is a back fire thru the carb.good luck P.S.please be very careful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
AnswerYour problem may exist in the ignition switch whereas the trigger may not be resting properly on its contact position. Try manipulating the switch back and forth to see if it will engage. I've had this problem several times, started to replace the switch, but worked it until the jeep cranked.ANSWER
On mine, WE tried the ignition switch and changed the fuel filter/pump. Ended up being the fuel relay switch. (7 hours of labor at the dealer later)
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo wont start just clicks?
1st: Clean & tighten all battery connections-start by removing the negative (ground) cable and clean both negative(black) and positive(red), then ensure a tight fit.
2nd: If you're sure the battery is charged and the fittings are tight and still have the "clicking" just look at the starter connections and make sure all connections are clean & tight.
3rd: If the problem still exists the starter solenoid may be defective however, you should do a thorough process of elimination using a manual to pinpoint the problem to make sure you don't miss anything.(these are simple guidelines for a quick & possible remedy)
Spark plug wiring 1991 Jeep Cherokee?
2.5L
Take a look at the distributor cap. It should have a "1" on it. That goes to the front of the engine. The rotor turns clockwise when looking at it from the front. The next wire is going to be 3. Plug that wire into the 3rd plug from the front. The next one is 2. Plug that wire into the 2nd plug. The final one is 4. Plug that into the furthest plug.
Where is the crank sensor on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 6-cylinder?
Most 4.0's are located on the left side of the bell housing where it bolts to the engine. If I remember it is mounted with 2 trans mounting bolts.
THERE IS ONLY ONE 11mm BOLT HOLDING THE CRANKS SENSOR IN.
How do you change a Throttle Position Sensor in a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo?
On my '03 inline -six, 4.0, it is located behind throttle body. To get there, first remove small square plastic box located above throttle body. It should have "4.0 liter power tech" printed on top. One bolt on pass. side which holds it to the intake, then a clamp you'll need to loosen, is on the driver side and extends towards air cleaner. Remove box and look to the rear of the throttle hole towards the firewall- there it is. Remove red holder, using small flathead screwdriver, on top of plug hidden inside(which prevents accidental removal) then unplug. Two torx head screws hold it to the throttle. You'll have to lean over the motor to get them out and back in again. Your replacement part will have two new screws - use them.
yes, the body lift I've personally never done, however my friends have and managed to not kill themselves or the Jeep. The sus. lift is easy, make sure after the install, you go back and check the U bolts to make sure they are tight, we've had them work themselves loose frequently. Also, when putting the new springs in, make sure.. absolutely sure the centerpins are in the correct place and that the spring is very secure to the mounting plate. We've had them break off and the springs shift before... easy though, not too much worry about the angle of the driveshafts with a 3.5, so no need to do anything there, except maybe haveing to get a longer rear driveshaft.. telescoping or CV. Lataaaaaaaaa and good luck... GO BIG OR GO HOME!! FULL TILT
Whats the difference in the 4.0 and the 4.0 high output engine in the jeep Cherokee?
87-90 is the 4.0 with the RENIX (Renault/Bendix) fuel injection system. This is considered the "low output" motor.
91-06 is the 4.0 High Output with the Chrysler fuel injection system. Cherokees 91-96 and Wranglers 91-95 were badged as "4.0L, High Output".
The main difference between the two is the head flow characteristics. The ports in the head for the intake/exhaust are bigger and flow more freely, along with a change in camshafts and the deletion of some sensors, such as the knock sensor found on the RENIX 4.0s. The throttle bodies are also different between the two, intake manifold changes did not come about until 1999 and exhaust manifold changes did not come about until 2000, when Chrysler also switched to the coil on plug ignition system.
Personally, I believe the exhaust manifolds on the later 4.0s(2000-2006) are of a much better, 2 piece design. I say this because they do not have the tendency to crack much like the manifolds of earlier years. Unfortunately, this also brought on the addition of 4 oxygen sensors and two pre-cats in the exhaust stream of many 4.0s produced in this time period.
What is the firing order on a 89 Cherokee 4 liter?
6 5 4 3 2 1
6
3 2 Front of engine
5 4 Clockwise rotation on the distributor
1
What would cause a 1991 Sunbird to stall right after starting?
Could be a loose or damageed wire harnessconnections at the distributor, coil or alternator. Also, check the intake manifold vacuum for leaks.check all the bolts and nuts are tight and all the vacuum hoses connected to the mainfold are attached properly.make sure there is good fuel pressure.Good luck
Where is the camshaft positioning sensor on a 1996 Silverado?
1996 and later models-the camshaft position sensor is located on the back of the distributor, drivers side.the loss of the camshaft position sensor signal will not affect the driveability of the vehicle. whoops,that sensor is located in the distributor,the one on the back is the ignition module.
How do you replace the alternator on a Skoda felicia 1998 and where do the wires go?
The alternator on my wife's Skoda Fellatio has just failed as well so I'm shopping round to order a new one.
Having had just a cursory look under the bonnet it all looks pretty straight-forward. There's a thin wire going to a plug that is, at a guess, the charging indicator. There's a thick wire that comes off of a stud and which goes directly to the positive side of the battery. This is presumably the main feed from the alternator. No other wires. Nice and simple.
Oh, and just three nuts/bolts holding the alternator in position. Should be a half-hour job to change one.
Cheers Gary
If its a diesel with power steering you are in for a shock, you need to take out the radiator to give clearance, take off the belt tensioner pulley wheel to withdraw one of the two bolts, (not three). The pulley bolt is left hand thread and is lifted clear to slacken the belt for removal by getting a spanner on it and lifting. Not as easy as it sounds, it has a strong spring and is a bit fiddly, once the belt is off you can then turn the bolt the other way to remove it and the pulley wheel. removing the left hand headlight helps a lot as you can work through the hole that is left. best to find a scrap yard that still lets you take bits off and do it there first on someone else's car. Its not as bad as it sounds but is not the twenty minute job I thought it would be. Good luck, Steve
If its a petrol with power steering and an MPI engine then you are in for an even bigger shock as I have only just discovered. Removing this type of alternator requires a special tool. Without the special tool IT CANNOT BE REMOVED.
The procedure is to undo the nut which holds the belt retentioning roller to the engine mounting. Sure, both upper and lower bolts can be removed however, without releasing the tension from the belt the alternator can neither be moved nor removed.
The problem exists due to the positioning of the alternator and the belt retentioning roller - there is only 1/2-inch clearance between the bolt-end of the roller and the wheel-arch.
The tool is not available for public use. I have spoken to Skoda who have confirmed this. Even if you could buy the tool it would cost somewhere between £40 - £70 (confirmed by Ashley Down Motors, Bristol, UK).
If you could get the car over to a garage who has the tool then you might be able to persuade them to undo the belt retentioning roller nut so that you can fit the alternator yourself on the roadside - although, they might not be happy about this so phone them first. It may also mean offering a token payment of say £10 or so.
