Jeep Cherokee Laredo

2.5L

Take a look at the distributor cap. It should have a "1" on it. That goes to the front of the engine. The rotor turns clockwise when looking at it from the front. The next wire is going to be 3. Plug that wire into the 3rd plug from the front. The next one is 2. Plug that wire into the 2nd plug. The final one is 4. Plug that into the furthest plug.

Most 4.0's are located on the left side of the bell housing where it bolts to the engine. If I remember it is mounted with 2 trans mounting bolts.

THERE IS ONLY ONE 11mm BOLT HOLDING THE CRANKS SENSOR IN.

On my '03 inline -six, 4.0, it is located behind throttle body. To get there, first remove small square plastic box located above throttle body. It should have "4.0 liter power tech" printed on top. One bolt on pass. side which holds it to the intake, then a clamp you'll need to loosen, is on the driver side and extends towards air cleaner. Remove box and look to the rear of the throttle hole towards the firewall- there it is. Remove red holder, using small flathead screwdriver, on top of plug hidden inside(which prevents accidental removal) then unplug. Two torx head screws hold it to the throttle. You'll have to lean over the motor to get them out and back in again. Your replacement part will have two new screws - use them.

yes, the body lift I've personally never done, however my friends have and managed to not kill themselves or the Jeep. The sus. lift is easy, make sure after the install, you go back and check the U bolts to make sure they are tight, we've had them work themselves loose frequently. Also, when putting the new springs in, make sure.. absolutely sure the centerpins are in the correct place and that the spring is very secure to the mounting plate. We've had them break off and the springs shift before... easy though, not too much worry about the angle of the driveshafts with a 3.5, so no need to do anything there, except maybe haveing to get a longer rear driveshaft.. telescoping or CV. Lataaaaaaaaa and good luck... GO BIG OR GO HOME!! FULL TILT

87-90 is the 4.0 with the RENIX (Renault/Bendix) fuel injection system. This is considered the "low output" motor.

91-06 is the 4.0 High Output with the Chrysler fuel injection system. Cherokees 91-96 and Wranglers 91-95 were badged as "4.0L, High Output".

The main difference between the two is the head flow characteristics. The ports in the head for the intake/exhaust are bigger and flow more freely, along with a change in camshafts and the deletion of some sensors, such as the knock sensor found on the RENIX 4.0s. The throttle bodies are also different between the two, intake manifold changes did not come about until 1999 and exhaust manifold changes did not come about until 2000, when Chrysler also switched to the coil on plug ignition system.

Personally, I believe the exhaust manifolds on the later 4.0s(2000-2006) are of a much better, 2 piece design. I say this because they do not have the tendency to crack much like the manifolds of earlier years. Unfortunately, this also brought on the addition of 4 oxygen sensors and two pre-cats in the exhaust stream of many 4.0s produced in this time period.

6 5 4 3 2 1

6

3 2 Front of engine

5 4 Clockwise rotation on the distributor

1

nothing

Could be a loose or damageed wire harnessconnections at the distributor, coil or alternator. Also, check the intake manifold vacuum for leaks.check all the bolts and nuts are tight and all the vacuum hoses connected to the mainfold are attached properly.make sure there is good fuel pressure.Good luck

1996 and later models-the camshaft position sensor is located on the back of the distributor, drivers side.the loss of the camshaft position sensor signal will not affect the driveability of the vehicle. whoops,that sensor is located in the distributor,the one on the back is the ignition module.

The alternator on my wife's Skoda Fellatio has just failed as well so I'm shopping round to order a new one.

Having had just a cursory look under the bonnet it all looks pretty straight-forward. There's a thin wire going to a plug that is, at a guess, the charging indicator. There's a thick wire that comes off of a stud and which goes directly to the positive side of the battery. This is presumably the main feed from the alternator. No other wires. Nice and simple.

Oh, and just three nuts/bolts holding the alternator in position. Should be a half-hour job to change one.

Cheers Gary

If its a diesel with power steering you are in for a shock, you need to take out the radiator to give clearance, take off the belt tensioner pulley wheel to withdraw one of the two bolts, (not three). The pulley bolt is left hand thread and is lifted clear to slacken the belt for removal by getting a spanner on it and lifting. Not as easy as it sounds, it has a strong spring and is a bit fiddly, once the belt is off you can then turn the bolt the other way to remove it and the pulley wheel. removing the left hand headlight helps a lot as you can work through the hole that is left. best to find a scrap yard that still lets you take bits off and do it there first on someone else's car. Its not as bad as it sounds but is not the twenty minute job I thought it would be. Good luck, Steve

If its a petrol with power steering and an MPI engine then you are in for an even bigger shock as I have only just discovered. Removing this type of alternator requires a special tool. Without the special tool IT CANNOT BE REMOVED.

The procedure is to undo the nut which holds the belt retentioning roller to the engine mounting. Sure, both upper and lower bolts can be removed however, without releasing the tension from the belt the alternator can neither be moved nor removed.

The problem exists due to the positioning of the alternator and the belt retentioning roller - there is only 1/2-inch clearance between the bolt-end of the roller and the wheel-arch.

The tool is not available for public use. I have spoken to Skoda who have confirmed this. Even if you could buy the tool it would cost somewhere between £40 - £70 (confirmed by Ashley Down Motors, Bristol, UK).

If you could get the car over to a garage who has the tool then you might be able to persuade them to undo the belt retentioning roller nut so that you can fit the alternator yourself on the roadside - although, they might not be happy about this so phone them first. It may also mean offering a token payment of say £10 or so.

You probally have a bulb gone on the right side for your turn signals. When a bulb is gone the lights will not flash but instead come on solid.

If your bulbs test OK or replacing them does not fix it, you may have the problem I had.

If your emergency flashers work but one of the turn signals will no longer come on, the most likely part failure is the multi function turn signal lever. If

A simple test for this is to remove the light bulb from the cornering lamp (the bright light that illuminates the side that you are turning to, not the turn signal bulb). After removing the bulb, retest your turn signal. If, like mine, it resumes flashing, that would indicate that the turn signal lever can not handle the electrical load anymore and may need to be replaced. Or if you can live without the cornering lamp, you can postpone the repair til a later date. You can test the resistance on a couple wires in the C202 connector to be sure. - bowfan

Listen 2 ME HE Is So RIGHT,,, The Front Cornering Lights Draw Tons Of AMPS and in 1996,97 to 2012 Buick has there turn signal statts made in Canada which is great but the signal stats can not handle the cornering light loads and then the turn signal stat contacts BURN OUT" So Remove Your Cornering lights to Save Your Signal Stat and if State inspection give you issue then put in a White LED light. new signal stat run 160 bucks off eBay to 350bucks at auto parts. Turn Signal Wiring Is 1 pink wire from ignition side fuse box to turn signal switch right/left use same power, orange wire left, black wire for right now your cornering lights draw many amps, now power goes to flasher relay modual located steering coloumn right side above relays, very short pigtail on Flasher Relay, Square pigtail with like 9 wire, inside relay is 2 flasher relays 1 for left / right the other for hazard light and looks like common ground for everything. Found Free Wire Schmatic at AutoZone.Com Web Site.

Try the dealer Parts Department, they have all the service manuals an what u need.

Yep. Any size/shape of speaker will work in any vehicle, as long as you can find somewhere to mount them. :)

You will have to get the engine scanned and the necessary repairs made. Then the check engine light can be cleared. Just to clear the light without the repair will result in the light comming back "on."

I have an 89 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, and both my doors, and back panel have 5.25" speakers... I'm not sure if the 93 Cherokee is the same, but I hope I help.

My 92 Cherokee also has 5.25" speakers in both doors and in the rear hatch...however you can fit 6.5" speakers in the door with little or no modifications. Also you can fit 6.5" speakers in the rear hatch with a little cutting to the fiberglass.

The horn is honking because the lower bearing in your steering column and the contacts are touching when you turn the wheel. It will need to be taken apart but unfortunatly thet bearing and race is no longer available from VW. Get a good mechanic and he will find somthing that will work.

Good luck

It is in the center of the rear of the axle.

Hard shifting, delayed shifting, wont shift into gears. If any of this is happening first check the fluid make sure its up. If its up then smell it and if it smells burnt then I'm afraid to say that you will need a new one.

What size engine?

The two hoses that run thru the firewall into the heater core should both be hot. Check them with your hand; you may need to flush/replace your heater core. I hope this helps you. Mark

maybe it is the security system

Ive had no less than 7 mechanics trying to fix this problem on my 98 Jeep GC. We have replaced half the car already and it still does it. It is not the timing chain, it is not out of gas, and it is not the security system. Jeep/Chrysler has no idea what is causing this in a large number of 98 Jeep GC. If you own one that shuts down do the world a favor and distroy it. We are trying one last thing before I junk mine. I am sending the dash cluster to a technician to check it out. I'll let you know.

Behind the center of dash board (has to be removed)

Have you checked your fuses? Does the turn signal light up at all? If it does, you most likely need to replace a flasher.

Either the transfer case is still in part time or there is a failure in the switch on the transfer case.

Either the transfer case is still in part time or there is a failure in the switch on the transfer case.

The neutral/back up light switch is located on the passenger side of the transmission close to the rear corner of the housing. It is triangular in shape. Take it apart carefully and clean the contacts with contact cleaner.