Kia Sephia

To the person that ask the question just follow the top hose back to the engine. Then remove the hosing that connects the hose to the engine and the thermostat will be there. Remove it and the gasket and replace the new thermostat and gasket the same way the old one came off.

Two, located under the spark plug cover.

The fuel level sensor on a 2000 Kia Sephia is located inside the fuel tank. It relays the amount of fuel in the tank to the vehicle's computer.

yes we have delete or turn of KIA immobilizser...you want to know?

Shifter assembly need replaced and it also need coded otherwise will not work.

the oxygen sensor is on the exhaust manifold, to get to it you will need to take off the air intake box under the hood...you will see the sensor sticking out the manifold in plain view, against the radiator

Your KIA has individual belts for the AC compressor-power steering pump and the alternator. These are not considered serpentine belts, just drive belts. You do have a cam timing belt that runs around both of your camshafts and crankshaft pulley. This maybe what you are thinking of. The camshaft timing belt is suppose to be changed after 60,000 miles (belt runs around $100). This 1.8L engine is a non-tolerance engine and if the timing belt should break, plan on replacing all the valves in the head. I just finished doing this job for a friend last weekend. Parts cost close to $400 from the parts store. Repair shop wanted $1700 for this same job. It is alot cheaper to replace the belt before it breaks. Note: When you replace the timing belt, replace the water pump while you are in there. First step to replacing the water pump is to remove the cam timing belt. Good luck.

I have the same Problem, AFTER EXAMINING MY OLD MASTER CYLINDER TO ESTABLISH THAT THIS WILL NOT OBSTRUCT THE STROKE OF THE PISTONS INSIDE THE CYLINDER. I HAVE DECIDED I WILL DRILL A LITTLE HOLE IN THE PLASTIC BARREL OF THE NEW REPLACEMENT MASTER CYLINDER. AFTER BLEEDING FOR SAFTEY SAKE. I WILL PUT AN ALLEN SCREW IN THE HOLE AND PERHAPS USE A HOSE CLIP OVER THE SCREW AND AROUND THE PLASTIC BARREL OF THE CYLINDER.

it is located on the floor under the stero

Are you saying your tail lights themselves do not work and only the brake lights work. If that is the case, check the fuse, and then check the tail light bulbs.

75w 90 if you have a manual transmission.... 2.8 quarts.

pick up the tool from kia parts usually you have to re tap it for a larger size insert or sleve to fit same size plug

from the front of the motor to the back is 1 -4 and the firing order is 1,3,4,2

It is NOT an easy task. Unless you have a good assortment of tools and a good mechanical understanding, you can mess up lots of things costing more than it would at first. Good luck.

Their under the plate on top of the valve cover. You have to take the plate off and they will be down in the cover. i found the one under the plate where are the other two?

Very carefully! Most need to be bench bled when u first get the new one just press the cylinder Down (open) pour fluid in and release cylinder slowly may have to do this 2 or 3 times. Undo the two bolts mounted to the side of the transmission undo the hydronic line on the old cylinder and put it on the new one. Thenount the new one in place bolt it down and bleed the system

Hi,

I'm not sure if by now you have the problem solved but I have a few small suggestions. The first simple thing you need to check is the button; press to make it go into overdrive. If the button does not work and I assume it doesn't and you have already checked it as this is a no brainer right? I have one stuck in overdrive by the way, and so you will next need to check the fuses inside the car, check the fuses under the hood too (you will need to put a tester on them to make sure they are putting off power to the fuse) and then if not luck, take to a mechanic to seek into it further. I'm still waiting on my mechanic to get me in. Most do not need overdrive in the city and use it on slick roads for a slower speed only. No need to worry at this point unless the conditions are as described above. Sorry I couldn't help more.

in the air cleaner box assembly

There are 2 sensors. The front sensor is located on exhaust manifold.Its electrical connector is located to the left of the cylinder head, above the transaxie.

Owners manual says 3.8 quarts if you do not change the oil filter, or 4.0 quarts if you do change the oil filter.

I would start with the basics. 1) Run a compression test to rule out mechanical issues. 2) On many engines you can listen to each fuel injector with a stethescope....may be a faulty or clogged injector. 3) Verify spark on each cylinder with timing light or spark tester. Inpspect condition of spark plugs. Misfiring cylinder would have more/less oil/soot on that plug. 4) Test for vacuum to make sure that you have no vacuum leaks. 5) Run a scan for stored computer codes. Many OBD systems will tell you the exact fault and often even which cylinder is misfiring.

Simple: If its automatic, save up lots of money and look into having your transmission rebuilt/replaced because it most likely has problems. If its manual: First off, not to sound rude but, SHIFT. If its not shifting and its a manual, well you get the idea. Now if you are driving stick and doing then one of several things are going on: Your clutch may not be working properly, your shift fork may not be working properly, which means look into having your transmission torn apart and looked at. I litterally just had this exact problem, except the car sat for 2 months while i was away, pulled apart then entire center consol, checked all the sensors and everything, figured out it was the prindle on the transmission was frozen. i am now looking into used trannys. if you need to check if your actual cable is frozen just pull off the intake box and intake, take off the bolt on the top of the prindle attached to the cable and try shifting through the gears (AUTOMATIC ONLY) if the cable moves its the prindle and a new tranny is needed.

after the tire is off remove the nuts around the middle of drum. remove the two phillip head screws and put them in the other two holes on the drum, tighten them both a little each at a time and watch the drum slowly slide off. when the screws go in as far as they can(be careful not to round the holes out), you can use a screw driver to finish prying off the drum, or you can slide hammer it off

right in front of the driver

Make sure you take the plastic shields off the car first before getting anything done. You'll need size 10mm sockets or wrench to take them off. These will be under the right hand side of the vehicle, under the fender. The first belt should be the one that goes around the alternator and the water pump pulley. You need to loosen your two bolts that move the alternator and that should be 12mm wrench and socket will do. Also the other bolt that screws the alternator in will have to be loosen with a 14 mm wrench or socket. That will be on the bottom of the alternator. Once it loosens take off the belt and replace it with a new one and reassemble it in reverse. Use a belt tensioner to make the proper tension, if no tensioner, give it a good pull to where it's just snug tight, but not too tight. The second belt should be around the crankshaft steering pump and the air conditioning. It will need a size 12 mm and 14 mm to get job done. You'll find a bolt tensioner on the steering pump. This is the bolt that will have to be loosen until the belt comes off. When it comes off, put the new one on and retension the belt accordingly. And don't forget your plastic shield under the car, install in reverse order and happy driving!