Lincoln Continental

Depends on condition,but if in mint condition around $30,000 to $35,000.

The steps for this are outlined in the service manual specific to your Lincoln, available at the parts store for about $30.

Yes, if your car sits a few days at a time and your cars interior lights periodically come on it will drain your battery.

From inside the trunk. The bulbs will plug into the back of the tailight assembly. You may have to move the trunk carpet away to reach it,

Under Splash guard in engine compartment on right side firewall (passinger side)

The headlamp assembly will pull out the fron to change the bulb. There is a single bulb for high/low beams.

Remove the large plastic protective shroud. It lifts up, held by velcro. Behind the headlamp assembly are two clips. These clips will lift up, releasing the assembly. It may take a little force but they will come up. The decorative grill top should also be removed. There are 4 screws that hold it in place at the top, in the plastic portion. Removing this will expose the side of the headlamp assembly.

The assembly may now be moved forward, out of the cavity. If you follow the wire from the assembly you will find a connector. Releasing this connector will allow the wire to loosen and the assembly may be moved out.

Undo the large ring holing the bulb. Pull the build out and replace. There are small plastic tabs that will allow the bulb to only go in in one position.

Have dye added to the a/c system run system for a couple of days then check all lines and fittings under a uv light.

For a 1976 Lincoln Continental , 7.5 liter ( 460 cubic inch ) V8 engine :

The firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8 )

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE ( looking from the top )

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the REAR

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

Up by the passenger side strut in the engine compartment.

Alicia

To erase a personal code and restore back to factory setting you will need to know the original factory setting code. Those codes are found with your owners info pack, on a small card, or sometimes they can be found on a sticker attached to the passenger side arm inside your trunk lid. Enter the factory code then, within 5 seconds, press and hold the 1/2 button for 2 or 3 seconds. The door locks will lock and unlock automatically to let you know that the personal code has been erased and you are back to factory setting.

check under the glove box

Follow the upper radiator hose to the stat housing unit, there should be two bolts holding the housing unit to the engine, drain the coolant soit doesn't come out when you take off the hose on the stat housing. Remove the 2 bolts and the housing unit with the stat and gasket. Reverse to install, make sure area is clean before installing, peace out, max

yes because ones i read about it

That will mainly depend on the year of the car. Go to a local parts house and purchase a Haynes manual that is specific to your car.

Two options that I had to do to fix mine.

First Option - Remove the part of the electric motor that is in the trunk. - Get some test leads and make the mechanism turn all the way down to the bottom of the stroke using the cars battery. When you touch the leads to the batter on the connecting clip, the motor will move the mechanism up or down. If it goes the wrong way, reverse the wires - Use your key to unlock the trunk until you can do the Second Option.

Second Option - Go to a junk yard and get all the parts from a dead Town Car. That means everything from the trunk lid (switch, solenoid, etc...) and from the inside of the trunk. You won't need the lock because you can still use the old one. - Replace your broken stuff with the stuff from the junk yard. Cost - about $10 - $15. If you go to a Lincoln dealer, be prepared to pay over $150.

Tools you will need: Small sockets, maybe a screw driver, and test leads.If the only problem is not closing fully there are a couple of other options.One is to loosen the bolts holding the lower latch in place and adjusting them to their limits. They should have adjustment play side-to-side and up-and-down.Another action that has worked for me, especially when installing a lower latch from another vehicle, is to turn the threaded latch rod (worm gear) up or down as required before installation/reinstallation. This establishes a new start point for the travel of the lower latch during closure. This is a trial and error procedure as the two latches must also hook up for closure..By the way, a cadillac latch will also work.

MY MOTOR WAS GOOD< SWITCH WAS BAD..........

I have a 93 Town with same issue. After troubleshooting it I found the motor was fine but the switch on the motor assembly was the problem. Part Nr. 16601101. I did some searching on the internet but could not locate a replacement. I drilled out the brass rivets, opened it up and cleaned all the contacts. It was easy to see the problem -17 years of dust/dirt/wear. It's now working again. Not sure how long it will last. Some of the contact strips inside were a bit worn. I'll have to hunt up a new switch next time it goes.

To change the back three spark plugs is tough!!! First you will need to remove the air intake boot that goes into your intake manifold along with the thin PCV valve line that goes into the air boot. The second thing that you will need to take off is that black plastic guard that runs along the very top back of firewall. It is held in by 3 plastic screws. This is the best access you will have to it. You will need a medium sized extension and a large size extension. You will have to use them in different variations to get the plugs out. It will take some time but just feel around and you'll be able to get them. The rear spark plug on the far passenger side may be easier reached by going underneath of the car and up through the wheel well or you could take off the distributor cap and get it that way. But bny removing the distributor cap may throw a wrench into your gears by mixing up your timing. Hope that helps

Once you have old plugs out make sure and replace with Platinum plugs that last 50,000 miles. Then only have to change plugs every 50K.

GOOD ANSWER FOR THE MOST PART, HOWEVER, IT WILL SNOW VERY HARD IN HADES BEFORE YOU EVER GET THE LAST PLUG BY HE PASSENGER SIDE (UNLESS OF COURSE MR. FANTASTIC COMES OVER TO HELP)...

TO GET THAT LAST PLUG OUT, YOU WILL BE LEANING BACKWARDS ON YOUR FENDER WHILE REACHING BACKWARD AND DOWNWARD AND FORWARD AT THE SAME TIME IN ORDER TO GET THAT PLUG OUT, AND IF YOU THINK THIS IS BAD, WAIT TIL YOU HAVE TO PUT IT BACK IN....

BY THE WAY, DONT FORGET TO GAP THE PLUGS FIRST, YOU DONT WANT TO REPEAT THIS ANYTIME SOON...

I unbolted the back 2 motor mount bolts by the passenger side front tire. Then put a floor jack under the motor so it would roll forward when raised. still a little tight but worked great for me.

For a 1999 Lincoln Continental 4.6 liter Dual Over Head Cam , V8 engine :

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

It has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

1-----2-----3-----4

5-----6-----7-----8

front of vehicle > driver

In the TRUNK..............on the back of the Trunk Hood.

Door Code Location...

I actually found the door code behind the fuse box area (Driver Side) on my brother's 2000 Ford Expedition EB. There is a big white sticker with 5 numbers starting with number 1####. Hope this helps...

Ignition lock out

Ford didn't break down the numbers but about 56,000 Mark IV's were produced in 1976. A designer car cost about $3000 more than a standard one so I would guess about one in ten were Designer cars.

right above where the oil filter is located

as long as the Taurus has a V-8 it will

first determine if you car has a coolant cap on the radiator or on a plastic bottle, then remove the cap ( only if the car is cool ), 2nd, the vehicle usually comes with a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator usually on the drivers side, looks like a butterfly plastic twist thing that you have to unscrew to drain the coolant. or you can do the im in a hurry drain in which you take off the cap first and then the lower radiator hose connected to the radiator, this usually has a clamp that you can use a screw driver to unscrew off or a tension clamp to where you have to squeeze them together to remove it. this requires some maneuvering up and down, back and forth to remove but it will come off, DO NOT be close to it as coolant will come pouring out at a fast rate, your gonna get wet regardless, but those r the two ways that you can drain the coolant from your vehicle

what year? its usually located in the engine compartment next to the main fuse box or connected to it, their square with like lilttle diagrams on top. if not please go to your local auto stop and see if they can do a locations picture for you where things are in the engine, they may or may not just depends