Mazda Protege

Right on the power steering pump. pointing to the front of the car.

The belts are becoming worn and need to be replaced, or the fanbelt tensionning device needs adjustment. The only other thing it could be is that one of the things that the belts are driving is becoming seized (AC pump, power steering pump etc); but if everything else is OK then it is most probably the belts being worn out.

Follow the hose coming off of the top drivers side of the radiator. Where it meets with the engine there is a housing attached by 1 bolt and one nut. remove the housing and the thermostat is underneath it.

Behind the Glove Box.

It is the same fuse that controls the tail lights. It is at the top of the fuse box 2nd from the left. 15amp fuse.

IGNITION SYSTEMThe ignition system is responsible for igniting the air/fuel mixture at the most appropriate time. To understand how the ignition system works in the Mazda rx-7, it is important to have a good understanding of ignition systems in general. We'll start by giving a quick overview of ignition systems and then focus on the particularities of the ignition system in the Mazda rx-7.

This above shows the schematics of a generic ignition system that one could find on many piston engine cars. The Ne signal indicates engine speed. The G1 signal indicates crankshaft angle. With these two sensors, the engine control monitor (ECM) has permanent knowledge of the crankshaft angle and the engine speed and therefore can tell when the spark plugs should be fired for optimum performance. The IGT (ignition timing) signal is a pulse which tells the igniter when the power transistor should switch off the current flowing through the primary winding of the ignition coil. This current is low voltage (12V). When current flows through the primary winding, it creates a magnetic field. When the current flow is cut suddenly, the magnetic field collapses inducing a high voltage current into the secondary winding. This high voltage current creates an arc at the spark and provides ignition. The IGF (ignition feedback) confirms to the ECM that a spark has ocurred.

MAZDA RX-7 IGNITION SYSTEMThere are two rotors in the rotary engine: a front rotor (rotor 1) and a rear rotor (rotor2). Each rotor has three combustion chambers. For each rotor revolution, there are three firing events. The eccentric shaft makes three revolutions for every rotor revolution, in other words, it turns at 1/3 the speed of the rotors. The two rotors are 60 degrees apart from each other.

There are two spark plugs for each rotor. The leading (L) spark plug is the main spark plug. The trailing (T) spark plug is here to complete the burn and reduce emissions. At idle and with no load, the leading spark plug fires at 5 degrees after top dead center (5ATDC) and the trailing spark plug fires at 20 degrees after top dead center (20ATDC). On a rotary engine, top dead center (TDC) happens when the combustion chamber (three per rotors) is centered on the two plugs.

What follows is the electric diagram for the ignition system. This will give clues on how the system functions. Note that the engine control unit (ECU) relies upon an Ne and G signals from the crank angle sensor (CAS) to determine spark firing, as in a generic ignition system. These two signals will not be adressed any further here.

LEADING IGNITIONConsider the leading ignition coil with igniter on the schematics. The B/Y (black with yellow stripe) wire is the 12V primary current supply (from main relay). The G/Y (green with yellow stripe) carries the ignition timing signal (IGT-L) from the ECU. The IGT-L signal is a pulse. When the pulse switches from high to low, the igniter turns off the current in the primary leading coil winding. Since there is only one leading coil and there is no spark distribution, both leading spark plugs are arced. Obviously, one spark is wasted but with no ill effects. The leading ignition system is quite straightforward to comprehend. The trailing ignition system is more complex.

TRAILING IGNITIONThe trailing ignition system is actually a two-coil system (one coil for each rotor). Consider the trailing ignition coil with igniter on the schematics. The B/Y (black with yellow stripe) wire is the 12V primary current supply (from main relay). This wire shows up twice in the wiring diagram since there are two coils. The L/Y (blue with yellow stripe) carries the ignition timing signal (IGT-T) from the ECU. The IGT-T signal is a pulse. The BR/Y (brown with yellow stripe) wire carries the ignition select signal (IGS-T) from the ECU. The IGS-T signal is a pulse. The L/R (blue with red stripe) wire carries the ignition feedback signal (IGF-T) back to the ECU. The IGF-T signal is a pulse (will not be addressed further here). The Y/L (yellow with blue stripe) wire carries a signal to the tachometer and check connector (not discussed further here). There is one ignition timing signal but there are two trailing coils. The ignition select signal tells the igniter which coil the ignition timing signal is for (see RX-7 ignition system for source of information). When the IGS-T signal switches from low to high, trailing coil 1 (for rotor 1) should be fired. When the IGS-T signal switches from high to low, trailing coil 2 (for rotor 2) should be fired.

It means: you may PROCEED, but , WITH CAUTION.. [your responsibility]

An AMBER (YELLOW) light indicates CAUTION.

My experience in USA, Canada and UK driving tells me that the amber caution light, whether at a crossing or anyware.

LOOK OUT!

Firstmate

I just got mine replaced for 520 plus tax

This is due to the right rear tire pressure not balancing with the left front tire when your radio is tuned to a country and western channel.

it should be an assembly with the fuel pump. if it is or if it is not you still need to drop the tank to get to it. with the tank out from under the vehical you will be able to see where it goes.

If you mean why you can't get hot air to blow out when you turn on the heat, first check to see that you have enough coolant in your radiator, if it does the next step is to replace your thermostat, even if it looks good when you pull it out replace it, it's only a couple of dollars, if that doesn't work it is probably your heater core, those are very expensive to replace as you usually have to remove your entire dash to get to it. If it is your heater core and you don't have the money to replace it your car will still run fine and you will just have no heat so the cheap option is to trade in the car and let the dealership deal with it or by a cigarette lighter plug in heater and put it on the car floor.

It is not a defininte answer. It could be as simple as a thermostat. If the battery light is on, then it could be a broken or slipping belt. it could be a bad water pump. It could also be a blown head gasket. More than likely it is one of the first two. Start with the thermostat.

It is on the front of the crank shaft and under the timing belt cover. You have to remove the crank pulley and all the belts and then the lower timing cover. It is not a job for a beginner.
from : http://repairpal.com/crankshaft-sensor-569

Loosten the cap on the radiator to remove the pressure. Find the big hose that comes from the top right of the radiator. It connects to the engine block right under the distrubitor. The sensor connects with one wire. You will need an open end wrench to get it off of there. It is like a 9/16ths I think. On this car, it is a real bugger, and I think I had to take the air intake hose and part of the distributor cover off in order to get in there. You should do this when it is cold, and drain at least part of the coolent so you don't make a huge mess. I put a _little_ high-temp anti-sieze on the new one, cause I spent 45 minutes trying to pop it out of there with 13 years of corrosion and pressure. Don't put any sealent on it for sure.

Just a note of experience, Autozone has the wrong part in their computer for this. You have to go somewhere else like Pepboys. Take a look at yours before you buy a new one. And don't try to drive with it not in there.

-The cool one

cats and exhaust manifold. The upstream O2 sensor is located under the hood, close to the radiator, on the exaust manifold. the other ones should be located under the car along the exaust pipes

The MAF sensor is always located in the air duct between the air filter and the throttle body.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool a

I would check the ignition coil , and ignition module(which is only replaced with the whole distributor assembly).You can also check the ohms in the crank sensor(the wire is found over by the timing belt cover)and the crank sensor gap(which is at the crankshaft )very seldom a ecm go's bad.Sometimes a simple doing plugs and wires will become the fix.

Make sure it isn't the tire first. You will have to remove the strut, and have the bearing pressed out.

Do you really expect people to tell you how to steal a car? If it's your car, use the key.

Trouble code P0421 means:Warm up catalyst system efficiency below threshold

Suggestions are how old are your spark plugs,wires,distributor cap,rotor button and coil?If all these are replaced and or recent enough and the timing is fine,or not altered,it could be your ignition control module under the distributor cap is bad.This part is under the distributor cap,and under the rotor button.Unless your truck is having a fuel delivery problem like a bad fuel pump.If your fuel filter is way OLD replace it,and try.If the fuel pump mounted on the rhs at the back of the valve cover bolted in with 2 bolts is leaking or loosing pressure,low fuel psi NO start.This part is also has plastic gasket and be carefull with this if you replace this.Check for spark,remove #1 plug at spark plug and see if it arks a electrical spark with boot about 1/2 inch from plug,turn over engine.If spark,good check your fuel filter,and fuel pump for leaking fuel and could be a bad fuel pump,or low psi.

Check your user manual - under something like specifications or capacities - it will tell you how much of all your different fluids the car holds.

The alarm warning light in your 2002 Mazda Protg is an indication that the alarm system is deactivated. Remove the alarm fuse, for 10 seconds. Put the fuse back into its original slot.