Mazda Protege

I looked into this about 5 years ago. idle is not user adjustable and the 92 is factory set to idle very slow about 800 to 900 rpm. I think it is computer controlled. Incorrect sir. There is a bolt under where the accelator cable is connected that you can adjust and it WILL affect your idle, you can do this with a simple screw driver if you really feel that you need to.

1157A

Every 60,000 miles in a 93 Mazda Protege

A spark plug for a 2003 Mazda Protege has a 14 mm thread size, and a 19 mm reach. The gap is 1.1 mm.

drian raidiator, disconnect airintake sensors, remove intake, follow upper radiator hose to the Thermostat housing, remove 2 bolts, hose should move enough to get new thermostat in, install new thermostat with the little vent thing up and a new gasket

notes: gasket cement helps in installing parts in difficult locations and there are 3 different thermostats for the 1.5l, also if possible back flush before starting takes about 1hr the cooling system since you have to drain anyway

Start by checking all the lamps to make sure 1 is not blown that could be the cause. If not a lamp it will be the actual flasher unit which is located under the dashboard usually drivers side. You are looking for a cylinderical shaped unit silver in colour around 2 to21/2 inches long and 1" in diameter with a 2 pin plug in one end. Usually held in a spring bracket. If you get that out take it to an Auto parts shop and buy a new one ansd stick it back in. Should do the trick

Email me for the Engine Schmatic with all Torque settings dwillman@canada.com

The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve redirects exhaust gases back to the intake manifold and cools the cylinders down. On something that old, it's probably vacuum operated. A vacuum line going into the top of the valve pulls up a pintle. One side of the valve has a hose from the exhaust, and the other side goes to the intake.

First you're not looking for the right wire type... If you're looking for a standard 1/4" black wire that would normally run from a distributor cap to the plug you would be wrong... so:

Look right on top of the aluminum engine block and you will see the word Mazda and behind that you'll see your engine size. Between the two you'll see a round black rubber grommet and two black blocks with wires running through them (these are the ignition coils). If you look closely you'll see another rubber grommet under all the wiring. Your plugs are under all that wiring in about 4" deep wells. First you will need to remove four bolts that hold the coils into place (2) per for a total of (4) bolts. If I recall correctly you will need a 10mm socket to get these out. Before continuing mark each of the four cables with a number (1-4, left to right) so you don't get these mixed up. Next pull on the rubber grommet labeled #1 (NOT THE WIRE) and pull it all the way out. You will see your plug waaaay down below. Repeat.

Hints: Using a 6" extension on your socket remove all the old plugs first. When doing so use the rubber sleeve that is inside the socket to help get the plug out of the well. When putting the new plugs in remove the rubber sleeve from inside the socket so that the socket can be pulled off the plug and out of the well.

Notes: 1.) Always use an anti-seize compound on the threads of the new spark plugs. This can be purchased along with the plugs. 2.) NEVER over-tighten. Snug is 'snuff. Hope that helps.

I found this out through trial and error.

Hold the "clock" button down until it starts blinking.

Use the "Tune Seek Track" button up for hours, down for minutes to set the clock.

Hit the "clock" button again to save the setting.

Get the 'U' shaped radio removal tools (Wal-Mart or auto parts store just a few dollars). Follow the directions or: Squeeze the tool enough to insert the two ends (at the same time) into the two holes on the far left (right) of the radio face plate until they lock in (about 1-1.5 inches). Then do the same thing on the other side. Grasping both tools at the same time push in to the center and pull out. Then unplug the antennae and other connections and you are done.

The clutch slave cylinder should be mounted basically where the clutch is on the drivers side under the car. When you order the new part you'll know what it looks like. it's kind of tough to get to, at least in my experience with an 83' BMW 320i

NO

Any invasive medical procedure needs informed consent from the patient, which means he or she is fully aware of the reasons for doing it, what the expected results are, and any complications that may occur. The facility you work at may have their own procedures for documenting consent, and you should follow those. Patients that are unconscious or unable to understand or speak for themselves, and in absence of advance orders to the contrary, may be treated under the doctrine that a reasonable person would give their consent if able.

It can run between $160 and $250+ to replace the clutch on this car. It depends on the part price, and the charges for the person replacing the clutch.

Speed sensor....on transmission need changing....

For the front speakers, take apart the door, disconnect the speaker wires and unscrew support screws.

6x9 in the front doors

6.5 in the back doors

The horn is behind the right headlight. It looks like a black drum or rubber plate. * on my '93 it is mounted on the firewall passenger side behind the intake manifold. The horn is behind the right turn signal. If you remove the right yellow turn signal light, it's right there.

hope this picture speaks louder than words...g'luck http://www.icess.ucsb.edu/~greg/rodeo/egr.htm it is on the driver side towards the cab, it is just sitting on top of everything, that is about all i can say on it, hope that helps.