Mercury Cougar

put the key in the door and turn it to unlock

Drain coolant,loosen water pump pulley bolts and remove serpentine belt. V6-remove power steering pump bracket, remove hoses from water pump,remove water pump pulley and unbolt the water pump.DO NOT PRY the pump away from motor. If its stuck strike it with a soft face hammer. V8- Remove cooling fan, Remove radiator and heater hoses from pump. disconnect the electrical connector and unclip it from the water pump. Unbolt ignition coil bracket and carefully move it out of the way. it is very fragile. move the air injection pump. Remove the water pumpmounting bolts and detatch it. A gain,DO NOT PRY. For installation, Make sure all old gasket material is removed with a scraper or razor blade, and then apply a thin layer of new gasket sealer, place pump in position and finger tighten bolts. When tightening make sure not to overtighten or they will strip and leak. Then simply reverse removal, reill with coolant and start up and check for leaks.

there is no reset for the abs, it does self diagnostics at startup and will stay lit until it ceases to detect a problem. chekc your fuses sometimes this will trip the light

If keys are lost to a vehicle call someone to bring a spare if possible. If not then call a locksmith to have them replaced.

Most likely your upper shock mounts. Get them checked over.

An alternator can charge normally but can still drain a battery if the diode(s) are defective. Try this: remove the(red) positive cable from the back of the alternator and then touch it to the post that you removed it from. Remember, this is hot so don't touch it to anything else. If it sparks this indicates the alternator is pulling current, and is bad.

sounds like tired oil/ worn pump/ dirty filter/ ask yourself if you did your maintenance, if not bill has come due To be honest, Those are all very good reasons for why your Oil pressure drops down to 0 when your stepping on the brake, but the most commin reason for that is that when your stepping on the brake, your actually creating a "G" force that sends the oil in the Crank Case to the front of the car against the inside of the Oil pan. What this does in turn is not keep your oil pickup tube submerged, thus not allowing your oil to be "Sucked up" through the tube. This will instantly put air in the line creating a "0" reading for your Oil Pressure, when you come to a complete stop or when you are at cruizing speeds, the oil is leveled out pretty much allowing your oil pickup to remain submerged and keep a steady reading. This is why when you are at a stop or cruizing your Oil reading comes back instantly. You might ask, "then why doesn't it do the same thing when I accelerate hard, pushing the oil to the back of the pan and allowing the oil pickup tube to become UN-Submerged again, thus creating a "0" psi Oil pressure reading." Well, there is a good answer for this also, the reason for this is because is some cars the Oil Pickup Tube is actually located at the rear of the oil pan, so in return, when your jumping on the throttle hard, pushing the oil to the back of the pan, you are actually making the Oil Pickup Tube Super Submerged and maintaining your oil pressure. In most cases the oil pressure will remain around 60-80psi depending on throttle position in most cases. The easiest fix for this problem would to be: A... Check to make sure your Oil Level is where it is supposed to be. B... Add Oil to the engine even if it is at its optimal level, not more than a quart tho, just enough to top it off and keep that little extra oil in the pan to maintain the proper reading. This issue MUST be fixed or you risk the option of possibly RUINING YOUR ENGINE BY BLOWING IT UP. An engine that lacks Oil Pressure Often will brake a piston connecting rod, damage the piston itself, ruin the crank bearing, ruin the top end bearings/seals/and any parts that rely on oil to keep them lubricated enough to reduce friction to the point of avoiding overheating and scarring of the metal surfaces. Hope this helps you and anyone else out as much as possible! I have been in the Automotive repair field for a while now and have come across MANY oil issues so you have good reason to trust my "Words Of Wisdom". : )

According to the 1996 Mercury Cougar Owner Guide :

( DOT 3 brake fluid , meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A )

Pop trunk, on the left side (inside) pull back the carpet from the side, you will find a fuel pump reset switch, press it. It's not hard to find, just have to do a little diggin".

I heard that you pour it into the tube that holds the dipstick where you ckeck the transmission fluid. They said use a funnel and pour it in the tube the stick goes in.

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which shows pictures and meanings ) can be viewed online

With an OBD2 scan tool. The problem must be repaired or the light will just come back on.

that is the heat shield on your catalytic converters rattling. very well known ford issue, can sometimes be fixed by driving self tappers into the shield and converter.

Well, I know that on a 2000 merc cougar, if you press and hold the "Select" and "Units" buttons at the same time, it will reset the light. Hopefully this helps.

GOOD LUCK WITH THIS ONE,ITS A REAL TUFF JOB IF YOU DONT HAVE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT BUT IT CAN BE DONE IF YOUR A GOOD BACKYARD MECHANIC. FIRST OF ALL JACK THE CAR UP AND REMOVE THE PASSENGER SIDE TIRE , PUT JACK STAND UNDER THAT SIDE. UNBOLT THE AIR POLUTION PUMP FROM THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE AND PULL AWAY BUT DONT DISCONECT. UNBOLT AND REMOVE THE SIDE ENGINE MOUNT, THIS IS WHERE IT GETS HARD. PUT A JACK UNDER THE ENGINE AND JACK IT UP AS HIGH AS YOU CAN GET IT THE WIGGLE THE ENGINE MOUNT AND BOLTS OUT, THEY WILL COME BUT NOT EASILY. NOW GO AND RENT A CRANK SHAFT PULLY PULLER OR HARMONIC SINCRONISER , GO TO AUTO ZONE YOU PUT A DEPOSIT DOWN AND GET IT ALL BACK. PULL OFF THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY AND REACH UP BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR AND LOSEN THE TENSION BOLT , THIS ONE IS FUN TO BUT AGAIN IT CAN BE DONE. REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND AIR CONDITIONING BELTS FROM THE PULLY THEN POP IT OFF. NOW REMOVE THE PLASTIC SHROUD, TWO BOLTS ON BOTTOM . YOU CAN SEE THE WATER PUMP NOW BUT IT LOOKS LIKE THE REAR SHOUD ALSO HAS TO BE REMOVED. FORGET IT , JUST CACK ENOUGH OF IT AWAY SO YOU CAN GET OUT ALL THE BOLTS. THERE YA GO, NOW PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, AND MAKE DAM SURE YOU HAVE THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY TIGHTENED DOWN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO OTHERWISE THE BELTS WILL SLIP OFF. YOU WILL PROBABLY JACK UP AND LET DOWN THE ENGINE AS FAR AS IT WILL GO SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE YOUR DONE.

Check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the

front of your engine compartment ( it will show what type of spark plugs to use

and the spark plug gap )

timing is computer controlled there is no way to advance or retard the timing without changing the chip in the computer

Yes very easy

Just like all automatic transmission cars, remove the oil pan.

On a 1997 Mercury Cougar :

The fuse panel is under the dash , on the drivers side

Also , the power distribution box ( which is " live " ) is located in the engine

compartment near the battery

Get the service manual don't guess. as a master tech. ASE. Cert. you can't go wrong auto zone year make and model. its nothing like doing it the right way the first time.

If your talking about an engine with fuel injection or throttle body injection, the first thing to check would be your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). On these engines the IAC is what controls idle until you start to press the accelerator. It is controlled by your computer and has to physically move in and out or back and forth to let enough air into the engine to maintain idle. They are mounted right in the side of the throttle body. I would not recommend just replacing the part at first because sometimes using a good carb cleaner in the air passages of the throttle body (air horn) can do the trick. If you look down into the throttle body you should see a small hole maybe the size diameter of a cigarette butt. That is the only place air can get into the engine at idle and that's were you need to spray the carb cleaner. If this doesn't help then check to make sure you're throttle linkage isn't binding (maybe from dirt or rust), and make sure it recovers quickly and completely when you let off the throttle. Good luck

4x6, just got mine installed yesterday. Same for front and back. 4x6, just got mine installed yesterday. Same for front and back. they are not 4x6 size speakers. if you are replacing the factory speakers with new or aftermarket the size is 5x7 or 6x8, either sizeshould work as both sizes come eith both mounting brackets to install

there is a diagram sticker in the glove box for the fuses under the searing wheel

In a 1995 Mercury Cougar , 4.6 liter V8 engine ( 5W-30 )

* according to the Owner Guide