Mercury Sable

Either the coolant level is low in the recovery tank or the sensor is defective or has a loose connection.

actually most of the time it's the floating magnet in the tank. the magnet goes up and down with the coolant level. If your coolant level is where it should be and it's not overheating then it's something to do with a sensor. but before you run out and buy a new one there a little trick you can do. loosen the tank (it's only one screw that holds it in) and give it a good shake for about 10 seconds. what happens is the floating magnet will get stuck making contact with the sensor and trick it into thinking the coolant is low. 90% of the time this is the problem!!

cars that are equipped with ac are supposed to run when the heat selection is on : max a/c , a/c , mix or defrost. the ac pump dries the air that flows through it which helps to clear the windshield and also to help to feel cooler in the summer . i have pulled the plug on the compressor before to turn it off during the winter months but it is just fine to run

Also, heat settings keep the compressor running to prevent it from seizing. The number 1 cause of compressor failure was due to lack of use during the long winter months.

According to the 2002 Mercury Sable Owner Guide :

The fuse panel is below and to the left of the steering wheel , by the brake pedal ( it has a cover on it )

Also , the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) is located in the front of the engine compartment near the battery

because it doesn't like you. >:o are you sure

* in my experience i have found that the wiper motor cover is the problem, you may check your local mercury dealer there was a recall for this. you may also check the wiring I have seen wiring that has been eaten through by mice or other varments. * I took it to the Ford dealer for a dionostic test...$75!!! Turns out the windshield wiper motor had a short in it...Cost me $55 to replace it myself. But,on another note, we did find mice in the engine compartment earlier in the spring! So maybe they caused it!

first take of wire cover on top to give yourself more room then take off serpetean belt by taking a 15mm wrench to the tentioner and turn it clockwise to loosen belt then take off hose leading out the front of car the take off hte bracket thatthat holds a/c compressorbolts are 10mm them take off the nuts to water pump. before youcan get to hte lower hoses you must take off the front iner fenderwell. whatch out the heaterhose is a bear to get the clamp off. i took the big lower hose off first and then from top tyrned the water pump so i could get the clamp off for the heater hose needlessto say i change the clamp for a regular screw clamp once your there you can easily manuver the water pump out reverse to install.

The blinking means there is a condition that is causing damage to the converter. The cause would need to be troubleshooted.

The vehicle speed sensor is the #1 suspect - it feeds critical data to both the speedometer and the transmission.

See "Related Questions" below for more, including picture links, about the VSS

There is only 1 size oil filter for your engine.

There will be many choices of brands and such, but only 1 "size"

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It depends on which engine you have in your 1996 Mercury Sable

According to one of Fords websites

The 3.0 liter " VULCAN " V6 engine takes the ( Motorcraft FL-400-S )

The 3.0 L " DURATEC " takes the ( Motorcraft FL-820 engine oil filter )

14 mm.

the directions should be right under the hood left hand side if not buy a chiltons book from orielly will show how belt goes on if not just follow pulleys belt will only go on one way

update...

If the plastic piece showing the diagram is missing on your car, you can call the ford dealership and have them e-mail it to you. They did that for me. I can tell you there are many places on the web (and many auto parts stores) which will show you the "correct" diagram for a car, but are completely wrong!!! I got about 4 or 5 "correct" diagrams for my ford windstar, all of which were wrong. it wasnt until i called the dealership and spoke with the parts dept. was I able to finally get a diagram that worked.

Steve phx AZ

Regular unleaded , 87 octane

Great question!

For the 12 valve "Vulcan" engine, there is a decent amount of room to get at the rear side of the engine and plugs.

So a typical collection of socket extensions to go with the plug socket will likely suffice.

The 24 valve, Duratec DOHC engine is a totally different matter!

Getting at the rear plugs is a much more complicated under-taking. The most popular approach to dealing with the lack of room is to remove the upper intake manifold.

Don't panic just yet - it's not a difficult or risky task. Just adds some extra steps.

For this, you'll want to have a good assortment of smaller sockets, pliers, socket universal joint and a bucket of patience.

The "Related Questions" below are full of instructions, hints and tips on changing DOHC plugs and wires.

NOTE: if you discover some new tips/tricks, or develop your own sage advice to share, please chime into any of the questions, or come back to this one!

Helps out the next backyard mechanic with your shared knowledge.

When changing the air filter on a 1995 Sable (3.0 Liter), note that there are two clips in the rear holding the top down over the filter. In addition, the front of the cover has an upward facing lip that is designed to engage on an adjoining, downward facing lip on the box that holds the air filter. After opening the two latches in the rear, pull the rear of the top up and towards the front of the car while pushing the front of the top down and pulling it forward. This should separate the front catch and allow you to remove the hood. Reverse this procedure after changing the filter, locking the front in place before reattaching the two rear clamps.

There is no "Method or process" for doing this, as it depends on where the cable is broken at, and if you knew that, you could elimate everything up stream from there. I have had this problem, in the past, and all I can tell you, is sometimes you have to remove; the bumper, the grill, sometimes the A/C condenser and anything else that is in the way of getting to the latch assembly. A pair of those long ( and I mean long) needle nose pliers, can be worked into a position where they can grab the end of the cable or the latch. The hood can be opened, without destroying it, but it takes patience and persistance. Usually a few friends and a couple of 12 packs gets it done. Just think, after you win this battle, you'll have something else to eyeball, every time you open the hood...............GOOD LUCK

Not sure if it has a formal name, but if you ask at any parts store, Harbor Freight, etc., for the tool for compressing a REAR disc brake caliper, they should know what you need.

If they don't, you're in the wrong store.

Most of the big chain auto parts stores will even lend the needed tools when selling the associated parts.

To elaborate - FRONT caliper pistons can be compressed with just a large C-clamp, or even using a large screwdriver wedged in by the inside pad, and gently pulling it against the pad to compress the piston.

REAR pistons - they need to turn like a screw while putting inward pressure on the piston.

See "Related Questions" below for more about Taurus / Sable disc brakes.

Since starters haven't changed much in the 40 years or so, I'll suggest the "Related Question" below is going to be very applicable to the 2003 (which I haven't seen nor have a manual for - thus I could be *wrong*)

See "Related Questions" below for more

1) blend door actuator motor has failed

2) a broken blend door itself

Hope it's #1 as that's cheap and easy.

See "Related Questions" below for more about each

5W-30

The Gem Module is a relay that control the majority of the electrical functions in late model ford vehicles

Maybe $100. You might be able to do it yourself for the cost of the gasket and the 2 hours it'll take to drain oil, pull pan, clean old gasket areas then apply new gasket and reinstall the pan.

Starter prices are about $150 - a little lower for remanufactured and lots higher ($200) for Motorcraft brand new

See "Related Questions" below for more

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

First thing to check is the fuse - See "Related Questions" below for more

According to the 1999 Mercury Sable Owner Guide :

( 60.6 litres / 16.0 U.S. gallons )